Christophe Claret Margot at Basel 2014
Margot is Christophe Claret’s first timepiece developed specifically for ladies. This remarkable timepiece features a blue mother-of-pearl outer dial that frames a three dimensional inner dial of daisy petals. The pusher at 2 o’clock causes a petal or two to disappear in random sequence in a game of “He loves me, he loves me not”.
Margot by Christophe Claret
The English version of the game is an all or nothing game of chance wherein he either loves me or he loves me not. However, since the French are deeply romantic, the Margot presents a wide range of possibilities to the question, Does he love me? (Il m’aime?): he loves me a little (un peu), he loves me lots (beaucoup), he loves me passionately (passionnément), he loves me madly (à la folie), or he doesn’t love me at all (pas du tout).
Each press of the pusher also creates a distinct, crystalline chime. The striking mechanism is one of Manufacture Claret’s signature complications, and here its hammer is embellished with a ruby. A window in the caseband at 8 o’clock reveals the vertical striking mechanism with a hammer that strikes the cathedral gong from above.
Once all the daisy petals have vanished, pressing the reset pusher at 4 o’clock makes all the petals reappear around the pistil and displays ellipsis in the “sentiments” window. The complication configures a new game that can end in an entirely different result.
The finishing details are superb. The mother-of-pearl dial is delicately inscribed with a love poem from Victor Hugo’s Les Contemplations. The dial is embellished with four pear-shaped diamond hour markers. The daisy is made of twelve petals crafted from titanium and white lacquer. The petals surround a yellow pistil made of citrine. The tubular hands are heat-blued with 18-carat gold spear tips.
Mother-of-pearl dial is delicately inscribed with a Victor Hugo love poem from ‘Les Contemplations’
Heat blued hands with 18-carat gold spear tips
Although the complication is entirely whimsical, it is staggeringly complex. The manufacture Caliber EMT17 is a 95-jewel, automatic movement made of 731 component parts. The display back reveals the automatic winding rotor and another game, “The color of feelings” (La couleur des sentiments). The rotor is open-cut in the pattern of a flower, with eight triangular gemstones set into the ends of eight petals. Each of the eight gemstones represents a different feeling such as hope, passion, tenderness and so on. Once the rotor stops spinning on its ball bearings, the gemstone that lines up with the red-lacquered heart predicts the wearer’s feelings.
Manufacture Caliber EMT17 is a 95-jewel, automatic movement made of 731 component parts
The timepiece is fitted on a quick-change alligator strap decorated with two pearl-shaped diamond embellishments at both ends of the spring bars. The Margot is available in four models with either a snow-set diamond bezel (423 diamonds ~3 carats) in 18-carat red or white gold, or a baguette bezel (68 diamonds ~5.2 carats) in 18-carat red or white gold. Each model is limited in production to 20-pieces each. The snow-set models are CHF 198’000 and the baguette models are CHF 278’000.
On the reverse, a game of ‘La couleur des sentiments’ (The colour of feelings)
A window in the caseband reveals the vertical striking mechanism
Photos: Paul Boutros