Presidential Pockets: Illinois A. Lincoln & Hampden Wm. McKinley

Paul Delury

Illinois A. Lincoln, Hampden Wm. McKinley, Presidential Pockets, Illinois Lincoln, Hampden McKinley

The two vintage pocket watches addressed here have model names dedicated to former US Presidents, both of whom unfortunately met their demise by assassination. The watches carry engraved signatures of the respective Presidents on the movements.


Illinois A. Lincoln


(Image via http://www.filmsgraded.com/)

One of the most recognisable of the US Presidents – Abraham Lincoln. Lincoln served as the 16th President from 4 March 1861 up to his death on 15 April 1865 after being shot by an assassin. Lincoln’s links to the Illinois Watch Co. date back to him meeting John Todd Stuart in 1832 when they both served in the same battalion of the llinois Militia. They later became partners in a law firm in Springfield, Illinois from 1837 to 1841. Stuart later served as a member of the Illinois Senate from 1848 to 1852. He was also a cousin of Lincoln’s wife, Mary Todd Lincoln. John Stuart served as the first president of the Springfield Watch Co. which, after reorganisation, became the Illinois Watch Co. in 1878. Industrialist, Jacob Bunn, became president of the Illinois Watch Co. and was also a close friend of Lincoln. Bunn and his brother, Jacob, managed and largely financed Lincoln’s political career. Lincoln himself lived in Springfield, Illinois, and served as a member of the Illinois House of Representatives from 1834 to 1842. Therefore there were a very strong links between Lincoln and both the state of Illinois and the Illinois Watch Co. The company named a number of their movement grades after founders and prominent persons, thus you will find, “Stuart”, “Bunn Special”, and of course the “A. Lincoln” grades.


(Image via Library of Congress)

Similarly to the Hamilton Watch Co., Illinois produced a range of quality pocket and wristwatches. In 1928 the Illinois company was purchased by Hamilton which closed the factory in 1931 with many of the Illinois workers transferring to Lancaster, Pennsylvania, to work in the Hamilton factory. Hamilton continued to use the Illinois name on a line of watches into the 1950s, at least, but positioned the brand on a lower tier than their own-name watches.

Lithograph of the Illinois watch factory, Springfield, Illinois, circa 1889.
Illinois Watch Factory, Presidential Watches, Springfield Illinois 1889
(Image via www.indianarog.com)

Here’s the watch in question. It’s a 1926 Illinois 12 size 3rd Model, Grade 527 Extra Thin, A. Lincoln. The thin-ish movement allowed a flatter watch than many other 12 size movements. Add the embossed 14k gold-filled Keystone case and fancy metal dial and you have a very nice, easily carried, gentleman’s watch.

1926 Illinois 12 size 3rd Model, Grade 527, Illinois A. Lincoln, Illinois 12 size

The Grade 527 Extra Thin is a 19 jewel movement with jeweled motor barrel and adjusted to 5 positions, with a with a nickel damascened finish. Around 18,500 examples of the movement were produced from 1920 to 1927. All-in-all a very good, high quality, piece.

1926 Illinois 12 size 3rd Model, Grade 527, Illinois A. Lincoln, Illinois 12 size

Below you can see a comparison of the signature engraved on the movement with a known example of Lincoln’s signature from 1863. It appears to be a good facsimile.

1926 Illinois 12 size 3rd Model, Grade 527, Illinois A. Lincoln, Lincoln signature watch, Illinois 12 size
(Signature image via http://www.raabcollection.com/)


Hampden Wm. McKinley

This stern-looking fellow is William McKinley, the 25th President of the United States of America. McKinley served as President from 4 March 1897 until his death on 14 September 1901 after being shot by an assassin.

Hampden McKinley
(Image via Courtney Art Studio)

John C. Deuber had formed the Dueber Watch Case Co., Cincinnati, Ohio, in 1864, producing cases over the next decades for various watch companies including the Hampden Watch Co. of Springfield, Massachusetts. With a very successful case making business, Deuber refused to join the Watch Trust in setting standardised watch case pricing. He was against the formation of monopolies, (and perhaps felt his own business could do better alone). This action resulted in Deuber being boycotted by major watch companies. Anti-trust laws enacted in 1890 under McKinley’s Presidency would address such issues, but in order to compete Dueber purchased the Hampden Watch Co. and built a new dual purpose facility in Canton, Ohio in 1886 – the Dueber-Hampden watch factory – which allowed him to produce cased watches. John Deuber sold the company in 1925 and by 1927 it was in financial difficulties and went into receivership. In 1930 the watchmaking machinery, equipment and much material was purchased by the Russian government via the Amtorg Trading Corporation. This was shipped to Moscow to form the basis for the First State Watch Factory, (later the First Moscow Watch Factory, to later become Poljot). A small number of Hampden specialist personnel moved to Moscow for up to a year to assist in setting up the operation and train the Russian workers. Some of the early movements from the factory were based on Hampden designs.

Photo of the Deuber-Hampden watch factory, late-1880s.

Hampden Watch Factory, Deuber-Hampden watch factory, Presidential Watches, Canton Ohio 1880s
(Image via http://dueber-hampden.blogspot.com.au/)

Hampden Watch, Deuber-Hampden watch factory, Deuber watch case, Presidential Watches, Canton Ohio 1880s
(Image via http://www.mathispremieredesign.com/The-Other-History-of-Dueber.html)

William McKinley, a lawyer by profession, was nominated for Ohio’s 17th Congressional District and took his seat in Congress in 1877. Rising in politics he ran for Governor of Ohio and won the election in 1891. McKinley ran for the US Presidency successfully in 1897, succeeding Grover Cleveland. The 1900 Republican re-election campaign poster below shows President William McKinley on the left with his Vice-Presidental candidate Theodore Roosevelt on the right. The poster compares the state of the nation prior to McKinley taking office on the left, and how it stood under his leadership in 1900 on the right. McKinley would be killed shortly into his 2nd term as President and would be succeeded by Roosevelt.


(Image via wikipedia)

During his time as a congressman in Ohio the influx of workers and business to the state due to the establishment of the Deuber-Hampden factory in Canton had not gone unnoticed by McKinley. He sent a congratulatory telegram to John Deuber and the two later became good friends. When operations commenced in 1888 the company held a large ceremony at which Congressman McKinley addressed the workers and guests. Following the death of the President in 1901 McKinley’s family appointed John Dueber to act as a pallbearer at the funeral. The image below shows the pallbearers with John Deuber seated at the right.


(Image via http://hampdenwatches.blogspot.com.au/)

The Hampden Wm. McKinley movement in this watch was made in 1916, a product of the Dueber-Hampden factory. The watch has a double sunk enamel dial and blued hands. Hampden introduced the Wm. McKinley 16 size watches in 1902, approximately a year after the President’s assassination.

Hampden Wm. McKinley, Hampden McKinley, Dueber-Hampden factory, McKinley 16 size, Dueber case

The 16 size 5th Model Wm. McKinley movement. This is a 17 jewel movement with nickel damascening and was a mid-grade movement for Hampden, the majority being adjusted only for temperature & isochronism as per this example. Hampden also made a 21 jewel version adjusted for positions that was accepted for railroad use.

Hampden Wm. McKinley, Hampden McKinley, Dueber-Hampden factory, Dueber case, McKinley 16 size

The nickel swing-out watch case carries the star & crescent moon trade mark of the Crescent Watch Case Co. It would be natural to assume a Hampden movement would have been cased in a Deuber case, and indeed the early Wm. McKinley watches apparently were sold only cased-up in factory cases. However, later on the Wm. McKinley movements were made available separately in catalogues and it may be that this movement was obtained in that way and cased-up in this Crescent case.

Dueber case, Hampden McKinley, Hampden Wm. McKinley, Dueber-Hampden factory

Below I compare the signature engraved on the movement with a known sample of McKinley’s signature from 1896. Apart from truncating the tail of the “Y” it appears to be quite a faithful facsimile.


(Signature image via http://www.historyforsale.com/)


Illinois A. Lincoln watch owned by TomG.

Information credits:

Beyond Springfield & Moscow – The remarkable story of Hampden watches.
Alan Garratt
(http://hampdenwatches.blogspot.com.au/)

Dueber-Hampden Watch Works
Lee Horrisberger
(http://dueber-hampden.blogspot.com.au/)

From Springfield to Moscow: The Complete Dueber-Hampden Story
A Supplement to the NAWCC Bulletin by James W. Gibbs, c. 1986
(http://www.nawcc.org/index.php/watch-a-clock-bulletin/past-issues-/548?task=view)

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Live Photos & Videos of Jaquet Droz at Baselworld 2014

Jessica

Grande Seconde Tourbillon Aventurine
Jaquet Droz has long mastered the use of aventurine for some of its most elegant dials and, this year, combines the sparkly mineral in a Grande Seconde Tourbillon. The center of the dial is white mother-of-pearl framed by 18-carat gold set with 90 diamonds (0.14 carats). The 18-carat white gold case measures 39mm x 13.20mm and is gem set with with 260 diamonds (1.47 carats). Turning the timepiece over reveals the Calibre 25JD self-winding movement with tourbillon and an 18-carat white gold and aventurine oscillating weight. The timepiece is limited in production to 28 pieces. Price is $115,400.

Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Tourbillon Aventurine, Grande Seconde Tourbillon Aventurine, Jaquet Droz J013014270, Caliber 25JD
Grande Seconde Tourbillon Aventurine (LE of 28), ref. J013014270

Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Tourbillon Aventurine, Grande Seconde Tourbillon Aventurine, Jaquet Droz J013014270, Caliber 25JD

Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Tourbillon Aventurine, Grande Seconde Tourbillon Aventurine, Jaquet Droz J013014270, Caliber 25JD

Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Tourbillon Aventurine, Grande Seconde Tourbillon Aventurine, Jaquet Droz J013014270, Caliber 25JD
Calibre 25JD movement with tourbillon and 18K white gold & aventurine rotor

Grande Seconde Tourbillon Ivory Enamel
The Grande Seconde Tourbillon Ivory Enamel showcases the brand’s expertise in grand feu enamelling. The 18-carat red gold case measures 39mm x 13.20mm. Turning the timepiece over reveals the Calibre 25JD self-winding movement with tourbillon and an 18-carat red gold and white onyx oscillating weight.

Grande Seconde Tourbillon Ivory Enamel, J013013200
Grande Seconde Tourbillon Ivory Enamel, ref. J013013200

Grande Seconde Tourbillon Ivory Enamel, J013013200

Grande Seconde Tourbillon Ivory Enamel, J013013200

Grande Seconde Tourbillon Ivory Enamel, J013013200
Calibre 25JD movement with tourbillon and 18K red gold & white onyx rotor

Miniature Painting on Enamel
The Miniature Painting on Enamel has an ivory grand feu enamel dial with a miniature painting of horses. The 18-carat red gold case measures 39mm and houses a Calibre 2653 double barrel automatic movement with a unique 22-carat white gold oscillating weight with hand-engraved horse motif. The timepiece is limited in production to 88 pieces. Price is $30,500.

Jaquet Droz Miniature Painting on Enamel, Miniature Painting on Enamel, J005013204></a><br />
<i>Miniature Painting on Enamel</i>, ref. J005013204</p>
<p><a href=Jaquet Droz Miniature Painting on Enamel, Miniature Painting on Enamel, J005013204></a><br />
<i>Calibre 2653 double barrel automatic movement with hand-engraved rotor</i></center></p>
<p><b>Petite Heuer Minute Relief Horse</b><br />
The Petite Heuer Minute Relief Horse has a patinated white mother-of-pearl dial with a hand sculpted horse relief appliqué.  The 18-carat red gold case measures 41mm and houses a Calibre 2653 double barrel automatic movement with a unique 22-carat white gold oscillating weight with hand-engraved Great Wall motif. The timepiece is limited in production to 88 pieces. Price is $62,000.</p>
<p><center><a href=Jaquet Droz Relief Horse, Petite Heuer Minute Relief Horse, Jaquet Droz J005013204
Petite Heuer Minute Relief Horse, ref. J005013204

Jaquet Droz Relief Horse, Petite Heuer Minute Relief Horse, Jaquet Droz J005013204

Jaquet Droz Relief Horse, Petite Heuer Minute Relief Horse, Jaquet Droz J005013204

Jaquet Droz Relief Horse, Petite Heuer Minute Relief Horse, Great Wall Jaquet Droz, Jaquet Droz J005013204
Calibre 2653 with mother-of-pearl rotor & hand-engraved Great Wall appliqué

Petite Heuer Minute Relief Horse
The Petite Heuer Minute Relief Horse has a black grand feu and champlevé enamel dial with a hand sculpted horse relief appliqué. The 18-carat red gold case measures 41mm and houses a Calibre 2653 double barrel automatic movement with a unique 22-carat white gold oscillating weight with hand-engraved horse motif. The timepiece is limited in production to 88 pieces. Price is $57,800.

Jaquet Droz Relief Horse, Petite Heuer Minute Relief Horse, Jaquet Droz J005033201
Petite Heuer Minute Relief Horse, ref. J005033201

Jaquet Droz Relief Horse, Petite Heuer Minute Relief Horse, Jaquet Droz J005033201

Jaquet Droz Relief Horse, Petite Heuer Minute Relief Horse, Jaquet Droz J005033201

Grande Seconde SW
The Grande Seconde SW is Jaquet Droz’s interpretation of a sports watch with the signature off-centred dials that form the figure eight. This year, the collection is extended with dial colours in gray, anthracite gray or blue, with a case option of 41mm or 45mm in diameter. The Grande Seconde SW houses the Calibre 2663A-S automatic movement with ruthenium finish, double barrel and 18-carat white gold oscillating weight. Price is $14,700.

Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde SW, Grande Seconde SW></a><br />
<i>Grande Seconde SW with gray Côtes de Genève dial and Super-Luminova index</i></p>
<p><a href=
Grande Seconde SW with blue Côtes de Genève dial and Super-Luminova index


Calibre 2663A-S automatic movement

Grande Seconde Quantième Ivory Enamel
The Grande Seconde Quantième Ivory Enamel is available with either a 39mm or 43mm case in 18-carat red or white gold. The sunken grand feu enamel dial accentuates the depth of the subdial and the signature figure eight configuration. The off-centered hours and minutes are indicated in the top half of the dial, the large seconds subdial incorporates a pointer-type date indication in the lower half of the dial. The Calibre 2660Q2.P perpetual calendar automatic movement is the first generation Jaquet Droz caliber to incorporate a silicon balance spring in the escapement. The movement is also finished with a more contemporary aesthetic with enlarged bridges and an openwork rotor. With double barrel movement results in a 68-hour power reserve. Price is $20,000.

Grande Seconde Quantieme Ivory Enamel, Jaquet Droz GRANDE SECONDE QUANTIEME, Jaquet Droz Perpetual Calendar,  Caliber 2660Q2.P, Jaquet Droz J007033200
Grande Seconde Quantième Ivory Enamel, ref. J007033200

Grande Seconde Quantieme Ivory Enamel, Jaquet Droz GRANDE SECONDE QUANTIEME, Jaquet Droz Perpetual Calendar,  Caliber 2660Q2.P, Jaquet Droz J007033200
Calibre 2660Q2.P automatic movement with perpetual calendar

Blue Grand Feu Paillonné Enamel
Jaquet Droz reveals three timepieces to showcase its expertise at paillonné enamelling: a 39mm Petite Heure Minute, a 43mm Grande Seconde and a 50mm pocket watch.

Paillonné is a difficult, labour-intensive grand feu enamelling technique. Antique gold flower and leaf motifs are hand applied between layers of enamel. The technique involves several firings at temperatures that can approach 1000 °C. Only the skilled eye can detect when the blue colour is perfectly consistent and when the motif has set under the translucent enamel fondant.

Each timepiece is fitted with a mechanical movement. The Petite Heure Minute is fitted with the Calibre 2653 double barrel automatic movement with 22-carat white gold oscillating weight; the Grande Seconde is fitted with the Calibre 2663 double barrel automatic movement with 22-carat white gold oscillating weight; and the pocket watch is fitted with the Calibre 2615 hand-winding movement. Each model is limited to 8 pieces each. Prices are $39,900 for the Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée, $42,000 for the Grande Seconde Paillonnée and $47,300 for the Pocket Watch Paillonnée.

Jaquet Droz Paillonné, Petite Heure Minute Paillonné, Jaquet Droz J005013240
Petite Heure Minute Paillonné, ref. J005013240

Jaquet Droz Paillonné, Grande Seconde Paillonné, Jaquet Droz J003033391
Grande Seconde Paillonnée, ref. J003033391

Jaquet Droz Paillonné, Grande Seconde Paillonné, Jaquet Droz J003033391

Jaquet Droz Paillonné, Pocket Watch Paillonné, Jaquet Droz J080033040
Pocket Watch Paillonnée, ref. J080033040

Jaquet Droz Paillonné, Pocket Watch Paillonné, Jaquet Droz J080033040
Calibre 2615 hand-winding movement

Bird Repeater Fully Engraved, Ref. J031033202
The Bird Repeater is now available with a fully engraved red gold dial and black onyx subdial. A pair of hand engraved birds look over their nest. The slide lever not only activates the cathedral gong minute repeater, but also animates the dial. While one of the birds bobs its head to feed a chick, the wings of its companion spread open, one of the eggs hatches and a waterfall cascades in the background. For the scene to achieve its realism, a complex cam system of eight different mechanisms work in synchronism. The hand engraved 18-carat red gold case measures 47mm x 18.4mm and houses a hand engraved Calibre RMA88 cathedral gong minute repeater hand-wound movement. The Bird Repeater Fully Engraved is limited to 8 pieces.

Jaquet Droz Bird Repeater, Bird Repeater Fully Engraved, Jaquet Droz J031033202

Jaquet Droz Bird Repeater, Bird Repeater Fully Engraved, Jaquet Droz automaton, Jaquet Droz J031033202

Jaquet Droz Bird Repeater, Bird Repeater Fully Engraved, Jaquet Droz RMA88, minute repeater automaton
Jaquet Droz Calibre RMA88 hand-wound cathedral gong minute repeater

Bird Repeater Openwork, Ref. J031034203
The Bird Repeater is now available in an openwork variation with a skeletonised dial and black onyx subdial. A pair of hand engraved birds look over a nest. The slide lever not only activates the cathedral gong minute repeater, but also animates the dial. While one of the birds bobs its head to feed a chick, the wings of its companion spread open. An egg in the middle of the nest hatches, while a waterfall cascades in the background. For the scene to achieve its realism, a complex cam system of eight different mechanisms work in synchronism. The 18-carat gold case measures 47mm x 18.4mm. The Bird Repeater Openwork is limited to 8 pieces.

Jaquet Droz Bird Repeater, Bird Repeater Openwork, Jaquet Droz J031034203

Jaquet Droz Bird Repeater, Bird Repeater Openwork, Jaquet Droz automaton, Jaquet Droz J031034203

Jaquet Droz Bird Repeater, Bird Repeater Openwork, Jaquet Droz J031034203

Jaquet Droz Bird Repeater, Bird Repeater Openwork, Jaquet Droz J031034203

Jaquet Droz Bird Repeater, Bird Repeater Openwork, automaton Jaquet Droz J031034203

Jaquet Droz Bird Repeater, Bird Repeater Openwork, automoton, Jaquet Droz J031034203

Jaquet Droz Bird Repeater, Bird Repeater Openwork, automaton, Jaquet Droz RMA88

Jaquet Droz Bird Repeater, Bird Repeater Openwork, Jaquet Droz RMA88, minute repeater automaton
Jaquet Droz Calibre RMA88 hand-wound cathedral gong minute repeater

Official Bird Repeater Video:

See also Public Forum Live Photos & Videos of Jaquet Droz at Baselworld 2014
Photos: Paul Boutros

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Live Photos: Introducing the Dubey & Schaldenbrand Structure

Jessica

For 2014, the independent boutique brand Dubey & Schaldenbrand provides TimeZone with an exclusive look at its new “Structure” chronograph with complete calendar and moon phase. The day and month windows are located inside the 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock, the moon phase is located inside the 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, and a central hand indicates the date around the dial.

The timepiece updates Dubey’s signature tonneau case by combining art deco elements on the dial with a modern aesthetic and sleek new case. The curved tonneau case is made of 316L stainless steel and measures 37mm x 52mm. The asymmetrical chronograph pushers are comfortable and responsive. The hands and multilayered dial are generously treated with Super-Luminova between the hour markers for optimal legibility both day and night. The solid case back is engraved with the timepiece’s technical features. Inside is a Valjoux 7751 automatic chronograph calendar movement.

Structure not only reflects Dubey’s new design aesthetic, it is also the first timepiece with Dubey’s new logo. The graphic logo incorporates the name “Schaldenbrand” as an underline with an emphasis on “Dubey”. The new logo is part of Dubey’s new branding campaign that will launch in a few months.

For its debut, Structure is available in two dial colours, Miami Blue and Anthracite Grey. Both timepieces are fitted with a water-resistant textile strap with rubber backing. Retail for this stylish timepiece is $8,500.

Dubey Schaldenbrand Structure, Dubey chronograph calendar moon, Dubey Structure Miami Blue, Dubey Structure Anthracite
Structure with Miami Blue & Anthracite Grey dials

Dubey Schaldenbrand Structure, Dubey chronograph calendar moon, Dubey Structure Miami Blue, Dubey Structure Anthracite
Structure with Miami Blue dial

Dubey Schaldenbrand Structure, Dubey chronograph calendar moon, Dubey Structure Miami Blue, Dubey Structure Anthracite

Dubey Schaldenbrand Structure, Dubey chronograph calendar moon, Dubey Structure Gray, Dubey Structure Anthracite

Dubey Schaldenbrand Structure, Dubey Structure Miami Blue, Dubey Structure Anthracite

Dubey Schaldenbrand Structure, Dubey Structure Miami Blue, Dubey Structure Anthracite
Bead blasted crown with a polished Dubey logo at its center

Dubey Schaldenbrand Structure, Dubey Structure Miami Blue, Dubey Structure Anthracite
Curved tonneau case with a curved sapphire crystal

Dubey Schaldenbrand Structure, Dubey Structure Miami Blue, Dubey Structure Anthracite
Introducing the new Dubey logo

Dubey Schaldenbrand Structure, Dubey Structure Miami Blue, Dubey Structure Anthracite

Dubey Schaldenbrand Structure, Dubey Structure SuperLuminova, Dubey Structure Lume
The hands and dial are generously treated with Super-Luminova

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Live Basel Photos: Breva Forecasts Weather & Altitude on the Wrist

Jessica

From the onset, Vincent Dupontreué was determined to launch a watch company that offered entirely new complications. He was not content to run another “me too” Swiss watch company that made different variations of the same movements. As he brainstormed, his thoughts kept returning to the weather. The weather is one of the first things anyone thinks about in the morning since knowing the weather is useful for dressing appropriately, and for planning the events of the day.

Vincent Dupontreué took his idea to the highly acclaimed watchmaker Jean-François Mojon, the creative genius behind the Harry Winston Opus X, the HYT H1 liquid display, and the MB&F Legacy Machine Nos. 1 and 2. Over the next three years, they worked through the challenges of expressing their brainchild into a wristwatch. In 2013, Vincent Dupontreué launched the Breva Génie 01, the world’s first mechanical wristwatch to display the time and a weather forecasting barometer.

For 2014, Breva presents its sequel, the Génie 02 mechanical timepiece with a high precision altimeter. The Génie 02 is available in two models, the Génie 02 Air and Génie 02 Terre. And what can we expect from Breva in 2015? Vincent Dupontreué promises that the third Breva will be totally unrelated.

Breva Génie 01, Breva Géneve, Vincent Dupontreué, Jean-François Mojon
Genié 01 with altimeter & a weather forecasting aneroid barometer

Genie 01 (Weather)
Barometric clocks were cutting edge scientific instruments in the 17th century and, notably, the word for “weather” and “time” is the same in French (le temps). The Génie 01 is micro-engineered technology and the world’s first mechanical wristwatch to display the time, power reserve, altimeter and a weather forecasting aneroid barometer. The case measures 44.7 mm x 15.6 mm.

The hours and minutes are displayed on a smoky sapphire crystal subdial at 8 o’clock, with small seconds below 12 o’clock. An altimeter around the top perimeter of the case indicates the altitude from -300 to +5,300 metres. The barometric pressure is indicated on a smoky sapphire crystal subdial located at 2 o’clock. The barometric pressure range is between 973 and 1053 hectopascals (hPa), with graphics of different weather conditions. The 65-hour power reserve indicator is located at 4 o’clock.

The weather forecasting instrument is located at 6 o’clock. Two anaerobic capsules register small changes in external air pressure by expanding or contracting. This expansion and contraction drives a mechanical lever on top of the capsules; which in turn, transmits to the altimeter and barometer for a reliable weather forecast.

The timepiece has three crowns. At 9 o’clock, the screw-down crown adjusts the time and winds the movement. At 2 o’clock, the altitude and barometric pressure adjustment crown allows the wearer to compensate for elevation. At 4 o’clock, the crown locks/unlocks an air valve to allow a small amount of air to equalise air pressure within the case. An osmotic Teflon membrane filters any moisture from air that enters the movement. Just above the crown, a red indicator on the dial marked “SEALED” warns when the valve is unlocked.

The Breva Génie 01 is a limited edition of 55 pieces in white gold and 55 pieces in 4N pink gold. Price is $150,000.

Breva Génie 01, Breva Weather, Breva Géneve, Vincent Dupontreué, Jean-François Mojon
Genié 01 in 4N pink gold (LE of 55)

Breva Génie 01, Breva Géneve, Vincent Dupontreué, Jean-François Mojon
The dial displays the time, weather forecasting barometer, power reserve & altimeter

Breva Génie 01, Breva Géneve, Vincent Dupontreué, Jean-François Mojon

Breva Génie 01, Breva Géneve, Vincent Dupontreué, Jean-François Mojon
The “AIR” crown at 4 o’clock is an air pressure equaliser

Breva Génie 01, Breva Géneve, Vincent Dupontreué, Jean-François Mojon
Proprietary movement developed exclusively for Breva by Jean-François Mojon

Breva Génie 01, Breva Géneve, Vincent Dupontreué, Jean-François Mojon
A circular scale engraved around the perimeter correlates altitude and air pressure

Breva Génie 01, Breva Géneve, Vincent Dupontreué, Jean-François Mojon

The Génie 01 video:

Génie 02 Air (Altitude)
The Breva Génie 02 Air combines a sophisticated mechanical timepiece with a high precision altimeter. The black Grade-5 titanium case measures 44.70 mm x 16.10 mm.

The hours and minutes are displayed on a grained and galvanised nickel-silver subdial at 8 o’clock. The indexes and numbers are three-dimensional and treated with Super-LumiNova. A high precision altimeter is located at 2 o’clock displaying meters (or feet). Around the top of the dial is the large-scale altitude indicator, which displays up to 5,000 meters (or 16,400 feet), with small seconds below. The 65-hour power reserve indicator is located at 4 o’clock.

Dual anaerobic capsules are located at 5 o’clock. Small changes in external air pressure cause the capsules to expand or contract. This expansion and contraction drives the mechanical lever on top of the capsules. The lever movements transmit to two precision, large-scale altimeter indications. The aneroid capsules were specially developed to Breva’s specifications and optimised for a wristwatch. The capsules are made from a special non-magnetic memory metal (a Breva-patented invention), which is lighter and stronger than aluminium and has twice the ductility of steel. The capsules are exposed for long durations to high temperature and pure oxygen to maximize thermal conductivity and oxidation resistance. The Génie 02’s aneroid capsules were developed specifically for registering air pressure for altitude readings rather than barometric pressure, and are different from those used on the Génie 01.

The timepiece has three crowns. At 9 o’clock, the screw-down crown adjusts the time and winds the movement. At 2 o’clock, the “ALT” screw down crown rotates both the altitude’s precision-scale and large-scale to adjust for variations in air pressure. At 4 o’clock, the “AIR” crown locks/unlocks an air valve to allow a small amount of air to equalise air pressure within the case. An osmotic Teflon membrane filters any moisture from air that enters the movement. Just above the crown, a red indicator on the dial marked “SEALED” warns when the valve is unlocked.

The Génie 02 Air is a limited edition of 55−pieces in black Grade-5 titanium and is available with calibrations in either meters or feet. Price is $132,000.

Breva Génie 02, Breva Altitude, Breva Géneve, Vincent Dupontreué, Jean-François Mojon
Génie 02 Air combines a sophisticated mechanical timepiece with a high precision altimeter

Breva Génie 02, Breva Altitude, Breva Géneve, Vincent Dupontreué, Jean-François Mojon
The dial indicates the time and altimeter

Breva Génie 02, Breva Altitude, Breva Géneve, Vincent Dupontreué, Jean-François Mojon
The aneroid capsules were developed specifically for registering air pressure for altitude readings

Breva Génie 02, Breva Altitude, Breva Géneve, Vincent Dupontreué, Jean-François Mojon

Breva Génie 02, Breva Altitude, Breva Géneve, Vincent Dupontreué, Jean-François Mojon
“AIR” air valve & “ALT” altitude corrector

Breva Génie 02 Air, Breva Altitude, Breva Géneve, Vincent Dupontreué, Jean-François Mojon
Proprietary movement developed exclusively for Breva by Jean-François Mojon

Breva Génie 02 Air, Breva Altitude, Breva Géneve, Vincent Dupontreué, Jean-François Mojon
Case back engraved with 20 major airport codes along with their altitude

Breva Génie 02 Air, Breva Altitude, Breva Géneve, Vincent Dupontreué, Jean-François Mojon

Génie 02 Terre (Altitude)
The Breva Génie 02 Air combines a sophisticated mechanical timepiece with a high precision altimeter. The Grade-5 titanium case measures 44.70 mm x 16.10 mm.

The hours and minutes are displayed on a grained and galvanised nickel-silver subdial at 8 o’clock. The indexes and numbers are three-dimensional and treated with Super-LumiNova. A high precision altimeter is located at 2 o’clock displaying meters (or feet). Around the top of the dial is the large-scale altitude indicator, which displays up to 5,000 meters (or 16,400 feet), with small seconds below. The 65-hour power reserve indicator is located at 4 o’clock. The case back is engraved with 20 major airport codes along with their altitude.

The Génie 02 Terre is a limited edition of 55−pieces in Grade-5 titanium and is available with either meters or feet. Price is $132,000.

Breva Génie 02 Terre, Breva Altitude, Breva Géneve, Vincent Dupontreué, Jean-François Mojon
Génie 02 Terre combines a sophisticated mechanical timepiece with a high precision altimeter

Breva Génie 02 Terre, Breva Altitude, Breva Géneve, Vincent Dupontreué, Jean-François Mojon

Breva Génie 02 Terre, Breva Altitude, Breva Géneve, Vincent Dupontreué, Jean-François Mojon
Proprietary movement developed exclusively for Breva by Jean-François Mojon

The Génie 02 video:

See also Independent Watch Forum Live Basel Photos: Breva Génie 01 (Weather) & Génie 02 (Altitude)
Photos: Paul Boutros

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Live Photos: Glashütte Original at Baselworld 2014

Jessica

For 2014, Glashütte Original celebrates the chronograph and its new manufacture Calibre 37 column wheel chronograph movement made entirely in Glashütte. With a 70-hour power reserve, the new movement features the longest power reserve for the manufactory and is especially notable since this is managed with one spring barrel. The new Calibre 37 debuts in two new models, the elegant Senator Chronograph Panorama Date and the sporty Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date.

Also new is the PanoMaticInverse that makes its automatic movement with dual swan-neck regulator visible on the dial. Then, Glashütte Original highlights its finishing expertise with the beautiful Senator Manual Winding Skeletonised Edition.

For all the new models, special emphasis is placed on the dial quality. Having acquired its own dial production factory last year, Glashütte Original is now able to finish its dials with high-grade aesthetics such as traditional German frosted silver, brushed sunray finishing, and even small details such as matching the same colour for the date wheel as the dial.

Senator Chronograph Panorama Date
Conceived as a permanent part of the Senator collection, the new Senator Chronograph Panorama Date is available two variation. The first features an 18-carat red gold case that measures 42mm x 14mm with a slim bezel that frames a lacquered silver grained dial. Retail is $31,500.

The second variation features a platinum case that measures 42mm x 14mm with slim bezel that frames a solid gold dial with a frosted silver finish. The frosted silver dial is achieved through a traditional German hand-finishing technique known as “silver grinding” (von Hand anreibeversilbert). This labour-intensive technique requires applying a wet mixture of fine silver polish and salt with a boars brush onto the gold dial plate to cause a chemical reaction that results in a lustrous, frosted finish. Retail is $55,600.

The new Calibre 37-01 is a 65-jewel, fully integrated column wheel chronograph movements made in the Glashütte Original manufactory in Glashütte. The chronograph movement features a central chronograph hand with flyback function, a 12-hour counter at 12 o’clock, a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and a subsidiary seconds with integrated 70-hour power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock. The signature Panorama Date display is located at 6 o’clock. The hand finished movement has bevelled and polished edges, polished steel parts, heat-blued screws, Glashütte stripes on the plate, and a skeletonised rotor with 21-carat gold oscillation weight.

Senator Chronograph Panorama Date, Caliber 37, Glashütte Original 1-37-01-01-05-30
Senator Chronograph Panorama Date in 18-carat red gold, ref. 1-37-01-01-05-30

Senator Chronograph Panorama Date, Caliber 37, Glashütte Original 1-37-01-01-05-30

Senator Chronograph Panorama Date, Caliber 37, Glashütte Original 1-37-01-01-05-30
Lacquered silver grained dial with heat-blued steel hands

The new Calibre 37-01 chronograph movement is greatly simplified with fewer component parts. The movement features a bi-directional rotor and the 70-hour power reserve is managed by a single spring barrel. The regulation is performed using four gold screws on the balance rim. The absence of a regulator on the spring allows the movement to run continuously over a much longer period of time, resulting in increased precision.


Calibre 37-01 is a simplified integrated column wheel chronograph movement

Senator Chronograph Panorama Date, Caliber 37, Glashütte Original 1-37-01-01-05-30

Senator Chronograph Panorama Date, Caliber 37, Glashütte Original 1-37-01-01-05-30

Senator Chronograph Panorama Date, Caliber 37, Glashütte Original 1-37-01-02-03-50
Senator Chronograph Panorama Date in platinum, ref. 1-37-01-02-03-50

Senator Chronograph Panorama Date, Caliber 37, Glashütte Original 1-37-01-02-03-50
Frosted silver dial is achieved by a German hand-finishing technique known as “silver grinding” (von Hand anreibeversilbert)

Senator Chronograph Panorama Date, Caliber 37, Glashütte Original 1-37-01-02-03-50
Frosted silver dial, heat-blued hands & blue sapphire mounted in the crown

Senator Chronograph Panorama Date, Caliber 37, Glashütte Original 1-37-01-02-03-50

Senator Chronograph Panorama Date, Caliber 37, Glashütte Original 1-37-01-02-03-50

Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date
This year’s sporty chronograph is interpreted in the Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date. The timepieces houses the new Calibre 37-02 integrated column wheel chronograph movement interpreted with a stylish, retro aesthetic. The Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date is available in three variations with dials in galvanised ruthenium, galvanised silver or blue. All three timepieces feature the Seventies collection’s soft-cornered square case that measures 40mm x 40mm.

The new Calibre 37-02 is a 65-jewel, fully integrated column wheel chronograph movements made in the Glashütte Original manufactory in Glashütte. The chronograph movement features a central chronograph hand with flyback function, a 12-hour digital counter at 12 o’clock, a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and a subsidiary seconds with integrated 70-hour power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock. The big Panorama Date display is located at 6 o’clock. The hand finished movement has bevelled and polished edges, polished steel parts, heat-blued screws, Glashütte stripes on the plate, and a skeletonised rotor with 21-carat gold oscillation weight.

The timepiece is fitted with either a bracelet, alligator strap or rubber strap. Retail is $16,400 on a bracelet and $14,900 on a strap.

Senator Chronograph Panorama Date, Caliber 37-02, Glashütte Original 1-37-01-02-03-50
Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date

Senator Chronograph Panorama Date, Caliber 37-02, Glashütte Original 1-37-01-02-03-50

Senator Chronograph Panorama Date, Caliber 37-02, Glashütte Original 1-37-01-02-03-50
Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date in blue and silver

PanoMaticInverse
The new PanoMaticInverse reveals its Calibre 91-02 automatic movement on the dial side, made possible by the inverse positioning of the component parts such as the duplex swan-neck fine adjustment. The PanoMaticInverse is available in two variations. The first features an 18-carat red gold case that measures 42mm in diameter and 12.3mm in height. The galvanised rhodium dial has gold-plated hour marker appliqués and heat-blued steel hands treated with Super-Luminova. The timepiece is fitted on an alligator strap. Retail is $29,700.

The second features a stainless steel case that measures 42mm in diameter and 12.3mm in height. The galvanised rhodium dial has heat-blued steel hour marker appliqués and heat-blued hands treated with Super-Luminova. Retail is $14,900 on a strap and $16,400 on a stainless steel bracelet.

PanoMaticInverse, Caliber 91-02, Glashütte Original 1-91-02-01-05-30
PanomaticInverse in red gold, ref. 1-91-02-01-05-30

PanoMaticInverse, Caliber 91-02, Glashütte Original 1-91-02-01-05-30

PanoMaticInverse, Caliber 91-02, Glashütte Original 1-91-02-01-05-30

PanoMaticInverse, Caliber 91-02, Glashütte Original 1-91-02-01-05-30

PanoMaticInverse, Caliber 91-02, Glashütte Original 1-91-02-01-05-30
Calibre 91-02 automatic movement

PanoMaticInverse, Caliber 91-02, Glashütte Original 1-91-02-01-05-30
Calibre 91-02 skeletonised rotor with 21k gold oscillation weight

PanoMaticInverse, Caliber 91-02, Glashütte Original 1-91-02-02-02-30
PanoMaticInverse in stainless steel, ref. 1-91-02-02-02-30

PanoMaticInverse, Caliber 91-02, Glashütte Original 1-91-02-02-02-30
Calibre 91-02 automatic movement

Senator Manual Winding Skeletonised Edition
The beautiful Senator Manual Winding Skeletonised Edition demonstrates the manufactory’s finishing expertise with an elaborately skeletonised and hand-engraved Calibre 49-18 manual wind movement. The movement is exquisitely finished with bevelled and polished edges, polished steel parts and heat-blued screws.

The 18-carat red gold case measures 42 mm x 9.5mm. A galvanised silver dial is painted with black Roman numerals and a black railroad minute ring and frames the skeletonised movement. The timepiece is fitted with two heat-blued steel hands. Retail is $37,100.

Senator Manual Winding Skeletonized, Caliber 49-18, Glashütte Original 1-49-18-01-05-30
Senator Manual Winding Skeletonised Edition, ref. 1-49-18-01-05-30

Senator Manual Winding Skeletonized, Caliber 49-18, Glashütte Original 1-49-18-01-05-30

Senator Manual Winding Skeletonized, Caliber 49-18, Glashütte Original 1-49-18-01-05-30

Senator Manual Winding Skeletonized, Caliber 49-18, Glashütte Original 1-49-18-01-05-30

Senator Manual Winding Skeletonized, Caliber 49-18, Glashütte Original 1-49-18-01-05-30
Elaborately skeletonised & hand-engraved Calibre 49-18 manual wind movement

Senator Manual Winding Skeletonized, Caliber 49-18, Glashütte Original 1-49-18-01-05-30

Finally, for ladies Glashütte Original expands its Pavonina collection with a boutique exclusive jewellery variation fully set with 513 brillant-cut diamonds (~2.5 total carat weight). 308 brilliant-cut diamonds embellish the case; 118 brilliant-cut diamonds embellish the center of the dial; 74 brilliant-cut diamonds embellish the lugs; 12 brilliant-cut diamonds are hand set in the index and 1 diamond is mounted into the crown. The quick-change strap offers flexible options. Retail is $44,100.

Pavonina

Pavonina

See also Glashütte Original Forum Live Photos: Glashütte Original at BASELWORLD 2014
Photos: Paul Boutros

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Live Photos: Christophe Claret Maestoso at Basel 2014

Jessica

At Basel, Christophe Claret officially launched two new watches, the Margot and the Maestoso. Margot is the brand’s first ladies timepiece with a “He loves me, he loves me not” complication of a daisy petal and sentiments window. Maestoso is an impressive technical accomplishment that reinterprets a self-starting detent escapement with constant force into an ultra-modern wristwatch.

Margot is a remarkable timepiece with a blue mother-of-pearl outer dial that frames a three dimensional inner dial of daisy petals. The pusher at 2 o’clock causes a petal or two to disappear in random sequence in a game of “He loves me, he loves me not”. For more live photos and a video of the Margot, please see this earlier post.

Christophe Claret Margot

Christophe Claret Margot

Christophe Claret Margot

Next, inspired by the traditional 18th century marine chronometers used to determine a ship’s exact geographical position at sea, the Maestoso features a self-starting, pivoted-detent escapement with constant force reinterpreted and optimised in a wristwatch.

Historically, this type of high-precision regulator was used in a marine chronometer that was mounted on gimbals so that it remained horizontal and undisturbed by the motion of a ship. Although the scientific instrument proved to be extremely accurate, the pivoted-detent escapement had two vulnerabilities. First, the slightest shock could cause it to stop or even release the escape wheel and break. Second, vibrations could cause overbanking; that is, even setting the time could create too much energy such that the balance wheel would oscillate with excess amplitude and speed up the escapement wheel.

Christophe Claret Basel 2014

Determined to integrate a traditional and long detent in a wristwatch, Christophe Claret spent seven years of research and development to arrive at three innovative and patented systems for the Maestoso. First, to prevent the detent from turning over, Christophe Claret integrated an anti-pivot cam to the spring balance that works in conjunction with the safety finger. The ensemble is fitted between a mainplate and two sapphire bridges, and pivots on a ball bearing that distributes the load on the escapement. The mechanism absorbs impacts by means of a spring that also provides the requisite flexibility.

Christophe Claret Basel 2014
The upper bridge is crafted from sapphire crystal for an unobstructed view of the anti-pivot mechanism

Next, to prevent overbanking, Christophe Claret developed a flexible thrust bearing fitted on the wheel and connected to the balance that absorbs any excess energy. Christophe Claret also utilised a constant force spring to guarantee stable energy and amplitude throughout the power reserve. Once the barrel is wound up, it always releases the same energy at regular intervals, making the torque to the escapement more constant. Finally, a patented stop seconds device stops the balance when setting the time.

In addition to these three inventions, the Maestoso features a patented micrometric worm screw on the regulator. Visible at 8 o’clock, the mechanism is used to regulate the timing rate and combines performance with design.

The manufacture Caliber DTC07 is a 44-jewel, hand wound movement made of 301 component parts and beating at a leisurely 2 Hz (14,400 bph). Two mainspring barrels are fitted in parallel, each with two superimposed springs that transmit force to the regulator, providing an 80-hour power reserve. The imposing timepiece measures 44 mm x 52.11 mm x 13.59 mm. The Maestoso is available in three case variations of either 18-carat white gold (CHF 182,000), 18-carat red gold with black PVD titanium (CHF 178,000), or 18-carat red gold (CHF 186,000) in a limited series of 20-pieces each.

Christophe Claret Basel 2014, Maestoso, pivoted-detent escapement, detent constant force, MTR.DTC07.060-080
Finishing details include frosted and skeletonised Charles X stepped bridges

Christophe Claret Basel 2014, Maestoso, pivoted-detent escapement, detent constant force
The constant force mechanism is located at 4 o’clock

Christophe Claret Basel 2014, Maestoso, micrometric worm screw, pivoted-detent escapement, detent constant force
The patented micrometric worm screw on the regulator combines performance with design

Christophe Claret Basel 2014, Maestoso, pivoted-detent escapement, detent constant force
Two mainspring barrels fitted in parallel with four springs provide an 80-hour power reserve

Christophe Claret Basel 2014, Maestoso, pivoted-detent escapement, detent constant force

Christophe Claret Basel 2014, Maestoso, pivoted-detent escapement, detent constant force
Cylindrical balance spring

Christophe Claret Basel 2014, Maestoso, pivoted-detent escapement, detent constant force
The pivoted-detent escapement is mounted on a shock-absorbing bridge

Christophe Claret Basel 2014, Maestoso, pivoted-detent escapement, detent constant force
Frosted surfaces and plates evoke the traditional English finish

Christophe Claret Basel 2014, Maestoso, pivoted-detent escapement, detent constant force
The balance stop system (stop seconds) is activated by pulling the crown

Christophe Claret Basel 2014, Maestoso, pivoted-detent escapement, detent constant force
Manufacture Caliber DTC07 hand-wound movement

Christophe Claret Basel 2014, Maestoso, pivoted-detent escapement, detent constant force

Christophe Claret Basel 2014, Maestoso, pivoted-detent escapement, detent constant force

Finally, we were treated to the Poker casino game watch. Christophe Claret’s entirely original complication turns a wristwatch into a fully-functional card game. This interactive timepiece faithfully recreates a card table with 32,768 random combinations for up to three players at a time. On the dial side is a game of Texas Hold’em, and on the reverse is a roulette wheel.

Christophe Claret Basel 2014, Christophe Claret Poke, Christophe Claret Texas Hold'em, Christophe Claret roulette
Poker: Texas Hold’em

Christophe Claret Basel 2014, Christophe Claret Poke, Christophe Claret Texas Hold'em, Christophe Claret roulette
Poker transforms a wristwatch into a fully-functional card game

Christophe Claret Basel 2014, Christophe Claret Poke, Christophe Claret Texas Hold'em, Christophe Claret roulette

Christophe Claret Basel 2014, Christophe Claret Poke, Christophe Claret Texas Hold'em, Christophe Claret roulette
A roulette wheel on the reverse

See also Independent Watch Forum Live Photos: Christophe Claret Maestoso at Baselworld 2014

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Basel 2014: Ball Watch

William Massena

Ball watch is growing exponentially in the US, now with about 200 dealers and some prestigious ones such as Tourneau, Topper and Manfredi. Ball introduced a lot of new watches this year and we had a chance to see them at Basel and Paul Boutros took some great pictures for you.

The annual calendar with a great classic look: Price should be less around $4,000:

Ball Watch, Ball Watch Annual Calendar, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Ball Watch Annual Calendar, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Ball Watch Annual Calendar, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Ball Watch Annual Calendar, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Ball Watch Annual Calendar, Ball Watch Basel 2014

The Storm Chaser pro, with a white dial and a grey dial: $3299

Ball Watch, Stormchaser Pro, Ball Watch Storm Chaser, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Ball Watch Basel 2014

The Celsius in gold with a mechanical thermometer that range from -35C to +40C. Limited edition of 600 with 100 for USA $8499

Ball Watch, Ball Celsius, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Ball Celsius, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Ball Celsius, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Ball Celsius, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Ball Celsius, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Ball Celsius, Ball Watch Basel 2014

Limited edition Ball Doctors Without Borders, for the NGO with a pulsation dial. $1599

Ball Watch, Ball Doctors Without Borders, Pulsation Dial, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Ball Doctors Without Borders, Pulsation Dial, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Ball Doctors Without Borders, Pulsation Dial, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Ball Doctors Without Borders, Pulsation Dial, Ball Watch Basel 2014

Engineer Pilot Master GMT, it is fitted with a ceramic bezel $2499

Ball Watch, Engineer Pilot Master GMT, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Engineer Pilot Master GMT, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Engineer Pilot Master GMT, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Engineer Pilot Master GMT, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Engineer Pilot Master GMT, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Engineer Pilot Master GMT, Ball Watch Basel 2014

Fireman Racer DLC orange. DLC finished for $1700

Ball Watch, Fireman Racer DLC, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Fireman Racer DLC, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Fireman Racer DLC, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Fireman Racer DLC, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Fireman Racer DLC, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Fireman Racer DLC, Ball Watch Basel 2014

One hundred fifty years ago, during the Civil War, the H.L. Hunley sank off the shores of Charleston, S.C. As one of the first submarines used in a military fashion, the Hunley represented innovation in a new age. Ball pays homage this year to the transport in its new Engineer Hydrocarbon Hunley. The stainless steel case measures 42mm in diameter and includes a unidirectional rotating bezel with luminous paint. The ceramic material utilized on the bezel allows resistance to corrosion, scratches and UV rays. The dial is black with Arabic numerals and a power reserve indicator located at 7 o’clock. In addition, the dial contains H3 micro-gas tubes, allowing greater visibility in the toughest situations. Finishing the timepiece, a tapered stainless steel bracelet with a Ball-patented triple folding buckle. $3899

Ball Watch, Engineer Hydrocarbon Hunley, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Engineer Hydrocarbon Hunley, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Engineer Hydrocarbon Hunley, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Engineer Hydrocarbon Hunley, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Engineer Hydrocarbon Hunley, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Engineer Hydrocarbon Hunley, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Engineer Hydrocarbon Hunley, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Engineer Hydrocarbon Hunley, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Engineer Hydrocarbon Hunley, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Engineer Hydrocarbon Hunley, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Engineer Hydrocarbon Hunley, Ball Watch Basel 2014

Aviator III: $1999

Ball Watch, Ball Aviator III, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Ball Aviator III, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Ball Aviator III, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Ball Aviator III, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Ball Aviator III, Ball Watch Basel 2014

Pulsometer Chronograph: $3999

Ball Watch, Pulsometer Chronograph, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Pulsometer Chronograph, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Pulsometer Chronograph, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Pulsometer Chronograph, Ball Watch Basel 2014

BMW Three hands limited production, designed by Miss Magali Metrailler, (the former JLC designer) $3299

Ball Watch, Ball Watch BMW, Ball Magali Metrailler, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Ball Watch BMW, Ball Magali Metrailler, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Ball Watch BMW, Ball Magali Metrailler, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Ball Watch BMW, Ball Magali Metrailler, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Ball Watch BMW, Ball Magali Metrailler, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Ball Watch BMW, Ball Magali Metrailler, Ball Watch Basel 2014

Pioneer: A great watch at $2499 with a beautiful suede strap.

Ball Watch, Ball Watch Pioneer, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Ball Watch Pioneer, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Ball Watch Pioneer, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Ball Watch Pioneer, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Ball Watch Pioneer, Ball Watch Basel 2014

Engineer II Marvelight: $1799

Ball Watch, Engineer II Marvelight, Ball Watch Basel 2014
Ball Watch, Engineer II Marvelight, Ball Watch Basel 2014

See also Ball Watch Forum Basel 2014 Report: Ball Watch
All pictures by Paul Boutros

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Christophe Claret Margot at Basel 2014

Jessica

Margot is Christophe Claret’s first timepiece developed specifically for ladies. This remarkable timepiece features a blue mother-of-pearl outer dial that frames a three dimensional inner dial of daisy petals. The pusher at 2 o’clock causes a petal or two to disappear in random sequence in a game of “He loves me, he loves me not”.

Christophe Claret Margot, Christophe Claret Basel 2014
Margot by Christophe Claret

The English version of the game is an all or nothing game of chance wherein he either loves me or he loves me not. However, since the French are deeply romantic, the Margot presents a wide range of possibilities to the question, Does he love me? (Il m’aime?): he loves me a little (un peu), he loves me lots (beaucoup), he loves me passionately (passionnément), he loves me madly (à la folie), or he doesn’t love me at all (pas du tout).

Christophe Claret Margot, Christophe Claret Basel 2014

Each press of the pusher also creates a distinct, crystalline chime. The striking mechanism is one of Manufacture Claret’s signature complications, and here its hammer is embellished with a ruby. A window in the caseband at 8 o’clock reveals the vertical striking mechanism with a hammer that strikes the cathedral gong from above.

Once all the daisy petals have vanished, pressing the reset pusher at 4 o’clock makes all the petals reappear around the pistil and displays ellipsis in the “sentiments” window. The complication configures a new game that can end in an entirely different result.

Christophe Claret Margot, Christophe Claret Basel 2014

The finishing details are superb. The mother-of-pearl dial is delicately inscribed with a love poem from Victor Hugo’s Les Contemplations. The dial is embellished with four pear-shaped diamond hour markers. The daisy is made of twelve petals crafted from titanium and white lacquer. The petals surround a yellow pistil made of citrine. The tubular hands are heat-blued with 18-carat gold spear tips.

Christophe Claret Margot, Victor Hugo Christophe Claret, Margo Victor Hugo, Christophe Claret Baselworld 2014
Mother-of-pearl dial is delicately inscribed with a Victor Hugo love poem from ‘Les Contemplations’

Christophe Claret Margot, Christophe Claret Basel 2014

Christophe Claret Margot, Christophe Claret Basel 2014

Christophe Claret Margot, Christophe Claret Basel 2014
Heat blued hands with 18-carat gold spear tips

Christophe Claret Margot, Christophe Claret Basel 2014

Although the complication is entirely whimsical, it is staggeringly complex. The manufacture Caliber EMT17 is a 95-jewel, automatic movement made of 731 component parts. The display back reveals the automatic winding rotor and another game, “The color of feelings” (La couleur des sentiments). The rotor is open-cut in the pattern of a flower, with eight triangular gemstones set into the ends of eight petals. Each of the eight gemstones represents a different feeling such as hope, passion, tenderness and so on. Once the rotor stops spinning on its ball bearings, the gemstone that lines up with the red-lacquered heart predicts the wearer’s feelings.

Christophe Claret Margot, EMT17, Caliber EMT17, Christophe Claret Basel 2014
Manufacture Caliber EMT17 is a 95-jewel, automatic movement made of 731 component parts

The timepiece is fitted on a quick-change alligator strap decorated with two pearl-shaped diamond embellishments at both ends of the spring bars. The Margot is available in four models with either a snow-set diamond bezel (423 diamonds ~3 carats) in 18-carat red or white gold, or a baguette bezel (68 diamonds ~5.2 carats) in 18-carat red or white gold. Each model is limited in production to 20-pieces each. The snow-set models are CHF 198’000 and the baguette models are CHF 278’000.

Christophe Claret Margot, Christophe Claret Basel 2014
On the reverse, a game of ‘La couleur des sentiments’ (The colour of feelings)

Christophe Claret Margot, vertical striking mechanism, Christophe Claret Basel 2014
A window in the caseband reveals the vertical striking mechanism

The video:

Photos: Paul Boutros

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Live Photos: Breitling at Baselworld 2014

Jessica

Breitling is celebrating its 130th year anniversary as an independent, family-run watchmaker. For 2014, Breitling is focusing on individualising its emblematic Navitimer and Chronomat collections by offering visual and technical diversity to existing models, as well as trending towards slightly larger case dimensions. Since Breitling’s “blacksteel” has been so well received, Breitling is making the black DLC case finishing available in more collections and in more models.

Breitling reinterprets its classic Navitimer in two new variations, one with an extra-large 46mm diameter, as well as a GMT travel version. Then, a special edition Navitimer Panamerican is offered in the original 43mm case with a bronze dial. As well, the Navitimer 1461 is enlarged for a 48mm diameter option.

Next, to celebrate the 30th anniversary of its flagship Chronomat model, Breitling is launching a special series Chronomat Airborne with a technical and professional look.

Finally, an Emergency II update for our patient Breitling collectors. The Emergency II is still being certified and has not been released in any markets worldwide. It looks like the Emergency II may be released in Switzerland first, with the possibility of it releasing this Fall.

Navitimer 46
The classic Navitimer chronograph has been produced since 1952 and now appears in an exta-large 46 mm diameter for added wrist presence and legibility. The Navitmer 46mm dial is available with a classic black dial that is made using the épargne technique against a pure silver base to ensure optimal legibility. The Navitimer 46mm is also available with an elegant blue dial featuring tone-on-tone registers. It also comes in a 200-piece red gold limited edition with a black dial.

The Breitling wings logo is stamped from an 18-carat gold strip to within 1/100th of a millimeter, and then sandblasted, blanked and polished to create its subtle contrasts. The Breitling symbol and hour-markers are hand applied. Visible through a sapphire crystal display back is the COSC-certified manufacture Caliber 01 automatic chronograph movement. Retail prices are $8,215 on a leather strap with tang buckle and $9,620 on bracelet.

Breitling Navitimer 46, Navitimer, Navitimer 46mm, Breitling Basel 2014
Navitimer 01 46mm with black and silver dial

Breitling Navitimer 46, Navitimer, Navitimer 46mm, Breitling Basel 2014

Breitling Navitimer 46, Navitimer, Navitimer 46mm, Breitling Basel 2014

Breitling Navitimer 46, Navitimer, Navitimer 46mm, Breitling Basel 2014

Breitling Navitimer 46, Navitimer, Navitimer 46mm, Breitling Caliber 01, Breitling Basel 2014
COSC-Certified Manufacture Breitling Caliber 01

Breitling Navitimer 46, Blue Navitimer, Navitimer 46mm, Breitling Basel 2014
Navitimer 01 46mm with an elegant blue dial

Breitling Navitimer 46, Blue Navitimer, Navitimer 46mm, Breitling Basel 2014

Breitling Navitimer 46, Blue Navitimer, Navitimer 46mm, Breitling Basel 2014

Breitling Navitimer 46, Blue Navitimer, Navitimer 46mm, Breitling Basel 2014

Breitling Navitimer 46, Blue Navitimer, Navitimer 46mm, Breitling Basel 2014

Breitling Navitimer 46, Blue Navitimer, Navitimer 46mm, Breitling Basel 2014
COSC-Certified Manufacture Breitling Caliber 01

Navitimer 01 Panamerican
The Navitimer Panamerican is a special edition chronograph in the original 43mm case, bronze dial, COSC-certified Manufacture Breitling Caliber 01 automatic chronograph movement and fitted on a bracelet. Only 1,000 will be produced with each individually numbered on the case band. Retail price is $8,105.

Breitling Navitimer Panamerican, Bronze Navitimer, Breitling Navitimer, Navitimer 43, Breitling Basel 2014
Navitimer 01 Panamerican

Navitimer GMT
The new Navitimer GMT is a 48mm travel watch that houses a COSC-certified Manufacture Breitling Caliber B04 dual timezone chronograph movement. Pulling out the crown and turning it forwards or backwards in one-hour increments enables the independent setting of the travel timezone date and hour, while maintaining a home-time display in 24-hour mode and without losing any precision in terms of the minutes. The large-format steel case with its imposing 48 mm diameter frames a perfectly readable instrument panel. The new Navitimer GMT comes with two dials, one in classic black with silver registers or one in all-silver. The Navitimer GMT is also available in a 200-piece red gold limited edition with a black dial. Retail price is $9,055.

Breitling Navitimer GMT, Navitimer GMT, Breitling Caliber B04, Breitling Basel 2014, AB044121-BD24-441X-A20BA.1
Navitimer GMT with black dial

Breitling Navitimer GMT, Silver Navitimer, Navitimer GMT, Breitling Caliber B04, Breitling Basel 2014
Navitimer GMT with silver dial

Breitling Navitimer GMT, Silver Navitimer, Navitimer GMT, Breitling Caliber B04, Breitling Basel 2014
Manufacture Breitling Caliber B04 dual timezone chronograph movement

Navitimer 1461 48mm
A personal favourite, the practical 1461 chronograph calendar is equipped with a semi-perpetual calendar mechanism requiring correction once every four years, or 1,461 days. The new Navitimer 1461 is now available in an extra-large 48mm case. The dial features the day, date and month indications as well as the moonphase.

The Navitimer 1461 48mm is available in a special edition of 1,000 in stainless steel, as well as a special edition of 1,000 in blacksteel, each individually numbered on the solid caseback. Retail price is $10,480 in steel on crocodile strap and $11,165 in black steel with black nylon strap treated with Teflon and fitted with anthracite buckle.

Breitling Navitimer 1461, Navitimer 1461 48, Navitimer 1461, A1938021-BD20-756P-A20BA.1
Navitimer 1461 48mm in steel

Breitling Navitimer 1461, Navitimer 1461 48, Navitimer 1461, A1938021-BD20-756P-A20BA.1

Breitling Navitimer 1461, Navitimer 1461 48, Navitimer 1461, A1938021-BD20-756P-A20BA.1

Breitling Navitimer 1461, Navitimer 1461 48, Navitimer 1461, A1938021-BD20-756P-A20BA.1

Breitling Navitimer 1461, Navitimer 1461 48, Navitimer 1461, A1938021-BD20-756P-A20BA.1

Breitling Navitimer 1461, Navitimer 1461 48mm, Navitimer 1461 blacksteel
Navitimer 1461 48mm in black steel

Breitling Navitimer 1461, Navitimer 1461 48mm, Navitimer 1461 blacksteel

Breitling Navitimer 1461, Navitimer 1461 48mm, Navitimer 1461 black steel

Breitling Navitimer 1461, Navitimer 1461 48mm, Navitimer 1461 black steel

Breitling Navitimer 1461, Navitimer 1461 48mm, Navitimer 1461 black steel

Chronomat Airborne Special 30th Anniversary Edition
To celebrate the 30th anniversary of its flagship Chronomat model, Breitling is launching a Chronomat Airborne special series that pays tribute to its original Frecce Tricolori chronograph used by the Italian airforce aerobatics team. This unlimited series features a satin-brushed rotating bezel with inlaid rubber hour markers. The polished stainless steel case is available in either 41mm or 44mm diameters, with the choice of two dial variations in black with silver registers or silver with black registers. Both dials feature vintage-coloured Super-Luminova for a retro look. The solid caseback is engraved with the inscription “Edition Spéciale 30e Anniversaire” (Special 30th Anniversary Edition) and an Aermacchi jet aircraft flown by the Italian flight squadron. The timepiece houses a COSC-certified Manufacture Breitling Caliber 01 automatic chronograph movement. Retail prices are the same for either 41mm or 44mm case sizes, and $8,030 with military-style strap and $9,060 with pilots bracelet.

Chronomat 44 Airborne, Chronomat Airborne Special 30th Anniversary Edition, Chronomat Airborne 30th
Chronomat Airborne with black military-style strap

Chronomat 44 Airborne, Chronomat Airborne Special 30th Anniversary Edition, Chronomat Airborne 30th
Solid caseback inscribed, ‘Edition Spéciale 30e Anniversaire’ with Aermacchi jet aircraft

Chronomat 44 Airborne, Breitling Aermacchi, Breitling Frecce Tricolori, Chronomat Airborne Special 30th Anniversary Edition, Chronomat Airborne 30th

Chronomat 44 Airborne, Breitling Aermacchi, Breitling Frecce Tricolori, Chronomat Airborne Special 30th Anniversary Edition, Chronomat Airborne 30th
Satin-brushed bezel detail with inlaid rubber hour markers

Chronomat 44 Airborne, Breitling Aermacchi, Breitling Frecce Tricolori, Chronomat Airborne Special 30th Anniversary Edition, Chronomat Airborne 30th

Chronomat 44 Airborne, Breitling Aermacchi, Breitling Frecce Tricolori, Chronomat Airborne Special 30th Anniversary Edition, Chronomat Airborne 30th

Chronomat 44 Airborne, Breitling Aermacchi, Breitling Frecce Tricolori, Chronomat Airborne Special 30th Anniversary Edition, Chronomat Airborne 30th

Chronospace Military
With is digital and analog time indications, the Chronospace Military is a professional pilots watch that can display 12/24-hour time, with the functionality of a countdown timer, chronograph, two timezones, day/date, month, two timezone alarms, UTC and also an end of life battery indicator. The 46mm DLC black steel case is fitted with a military-style strap of made of nylon treated with Teflon. The thermocompensated SuperQuartz movement is COSC-certified. The double caseback is designed to amplify the sound of the alarm. $5,915.

Chronospace Military, Breitling Chronospace, SuperQuartz
Chronospace Military with black DLC case & nylon strap treated with Teflon

Chronospace Military, Breitling Chronospace, SuperQuartz

Chronospace Military, Breitling Chronospace, SuperQuartz

Chronospace Military, Breitling Chronospace, SuperQuartz

Chronospace Military, Breitling Chronospace, SuperQuartz

Chronospace Military, Breitling Chronospace, SuperQuartz

Chronospace Military, Breitling Chronospace, Breitling Caliber 78, SuperQuartz
Caliber 78 COSC-certified thermocompensated SuperQuartz movement under a double case back

SuperOcean Chronograph II Black Steel
Expanding its SuperOcean collection, Breitling adds the new SuperOcean Chronograph II Black Steel. The 44mm steel case is treated with black DLC, has a rubber-moulded bezel and is fitted with a Diver Pro III rubber strap with tang buckle. Retail price is $7,560.

SuperOcean Chronograph II Black Steel, SuperOcean Black Steel

SuperOcean Chronograph II Black Steel, SuperOcean Black Steel

SuperOcean Chronograph II Black Steel, SuperOcean Black Steel

SuperOcean Chronograph II Black Steel, SuperOcean Black Steel

SuperOcean Chronograph II Black Steel, SuperOcean Black Steel

SuperOcean Chronograph II Black Steel, SuperOcean Black Steel
COSC-certified Caliber 13 automatic chronograph movement under a solid case back

TransOcean 38 Chronograph
Finally, for ladies Breitling expands its TransOcean 38 collection with a new variation with stainless steel case, chocolate dial and red gold diamond bezel. Retail price is $10,625.

Breitling Transocean, Transocean 38 chronograph


See also Breitling Forum Live Photos: Breitling at Baselworld 2014
Photos: Paul Boutros

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Live Photos: Breguet at Baselworld 2014

Jessica

For 2014, our friends at Breguet introduce two mens timepieces and four ladies timepieces. First, with the Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3797, Breguet makes a bold design shift by adding a three-dimensional sapphire crystal chapter disc to the dial. Not only does the opaque disc create a new design element, it is also functional in making the indications more legible.

Then, Breguet reveals the world’s thinnest automatic tourbillon in its Classique Grande Complication Tourbillon Extra-Thin 5377.

Finally, Breguet expands its selection of haute joaillerie (high jewellery) and casual mechanical timepieces for ladies with the Secret de la Reine, Les Volants de la Reine, Classique 9068 and Reine de Naples Princesse.

Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3797
Breguet’s Classique Tourbillon QP 3797 is its most daring design, and yet it retains all the classical design codes unique to Breguet. On the dial, Breguet adds a three-dimensional opaque hours and minutes chapter disc. Lifting the hours and minutes from the dial not only adds a modern and sophisticated design element, but also enhances legibility.

The opaque sapphire crystal disc is painted with Roman numerals and fitted with Breguet hands in blued steel. Beneath the disc, an engine-turned hobnail pattern decorates the dial, overarched by the semi-circular scale of the retrograde date.

A one-minute tourbillon is at 6 o’clock and is mounted on a slight dome. Despite the curve, its bridge is delicately chamfered and surmounted by a triple hand for the seconds. The day is indicated by an instantaneous hand in the subdial at 9 o’clock. The engine-turning is in a gorgeous wave pattern. The month and leap year are indicated in the subdial at 3 o’clock. The engine-turning is in a shimmering sunburst pattern.

Turning the watch over reveals exquisite hand-engraved baseplate. The Classique Tourbillon QP 3797 is available with a 41mm platinum or rose gold case and is fitted with the Calibre 558QP2 manually wound movement with tourbillon and perpetual calendar.

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3797, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3797, Breguet 3797, 3797PT/1E/9WU
Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3797 in platinum

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3797, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3797, Breguet 3797, 3797PT/1E/9WU

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3797, Breguet 3797, 3797PT/1E/9WU

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3797, Breguet 3797, 3797PT/1E/9WU

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3797, Breguet 3797, 3797PT/1E/9WU

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3797, Breguet 3797, 3797PT/1E/9WU

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3797, Breguet 3797, 3797PT/1E/9WU

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3797, Breguet 3797, 3797PT/1E/9WU

Calibre 558QP2, Breguet 558QP2, Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3797, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3797, Breguet 3797
Calibre 558QP2 manually-wind movement with tourbillon and perpetual calendar

Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795
The Classique Tourbillon QP 3795 is the skeletonised version of the 3797. The dial vanishes to reveal the movement’s construction and its lace-like engravings on the bridges. The Classique Tourbillon QP 3795 is available with a 41mm platinum or rose gold case and is fitted with the Calibre 558QP3 manually wound movement with tourbillon and perpetual calendar.

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795, Breguet 3795
Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795 in rose gold with skeleton dial

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795, Breguet 3795

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795, Breguet 3795

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795, Breguet 3795

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795, Breguet 3795

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795, Breguet 3795

Calibre 558QP3, Breguet 558QP3, Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795, Breguet 3795
Calibre 558QP3 manually-wind movement with tourbillon and perpetual calendar

Calibre 558QP3, Breguet 558QP3, Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795, Breguet 3795

Calibre 558QP3, Breguet 558QP3, Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel, Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795, Breguet 3795

Classique Grande Complication Tourbillon Extra-Thin 5377
Breguet’s Classique Tourbillon Extra-Thin features an off-centred tourbillon in a titanium carriage. The 42mm x 7mm platinum case frames an 18-carat gold dial that is engine-turned in four patterns. The Calibre 581DR movement is 3mm thin due to its peripheral rotor that winds in both directions. The self-winding movement is also fitted with a non-magnetic silicon balance spring and an escapement made of silicon and non-magnetic steel, enabling it to reach a high frequency of 4Hz. Despite beating at a high rate, there is no loss of power reserve due to the patented high-energy barrel mounted on roller bearings. This sophisticated barrel results in a 90-hour power reserve.

Breguet Classique Grande Complication Tourbillon Extra-Thin 5377, Breguet 5377, BREGUET CLASSIQUE TOURBILLON EXTRA-PLAT AUTOMATIQUE 5377
Classique Grande Complication Tourbillon Extra-Thin 5377 in platinum

Breguet Classique Grande Complication Tourbillon Extra-Thin 5377, Breguet 5377, BREGUET CLASSIQUE TOURBILLON EXTRA-PLAT AUTOMATIQUE 5377

Breguet Classique Grande Complication Tourbillon Extra-Thin 5377, Breguet 5377, BREGUET CLASSIQUE TOURBILLON EXTRA-PLAT AUTOMATIQUE 5377

Caliber 581DR, Breguet 581DR, Breguet Classique Grande Complication Tourbillon Extra-Thin 5377, Breguet 5377, BREGUET CLASSIQUE TOURBILLON EXTRA-PLAT AUTOMATIQUE 5377
Calibre 581DR is the world’s thinnest self-winding tourbillon

Caliber 581DR, Breguet 581DR, Breguet Classique Grande Complication Tourbillon Extra-Thin 5377, Breguet 5377, BREGUET CLASSIQUE TOURBILLON EXTRA-PLAT AUTOMATIQUE 5377
The platinum peripheral rotor of the Breguet Calibre 581 DR

Breguet Classique Grande Complication Tourbillon Extra-Thin 5377, Breguet 5377, BREGUET CLASSIQUE TOURBILLON EXTRA-PLAT AUTOMATIQUE 5377, Breguet 5377BR/12/9WU
Classique Grande Complication Tourbillon Extra-Thin 5377 in rose gold

Breguet Classique Grande Complication Tourbillon Extra-Thin 5377, Breguet 5377, BREGUET CLASSIQUE TOURBILLON EXTRA-PLAT AUTOMATIQUE 5377, Breguet 5377BR/12/9WU

Breguet Classique Grande Complication Tourbillon Extra-Thin 5377, Breguet 5377, BREGUET CLASSIQUE TOURBILLON EXTRA-PLAT AUTOMATIQUE 5377, Breguet 5377BR/12/9WU

Breguet Classique Grande Complication Tourbillon Extra-Thin 5377, Breguet 5377, BREGUET CLASSIQUE TOURBILLON EXTRA-PLAT AUTOMATIQUE 5377, Caliber 581DR, Breguet 581DR

Breguet Classique Grande Complication Tourbillon Extra-Thin 5377, Breguet 5377, BREGUET CLASSIQUE TOURBILLON EXTRA-PLAT AUTOMATIQUE 5377, caliber 581DR, Breguet 581
The platinum peripheral rotor of the Breguet Calibre 581 DR

Breguet Classique Grande Complication Tourbillon Extra-Thin 5377, Breguet 5377, BREGUET CLASSIQUE TOURBILLON EXTRA-PLAT AUTOMATIQUE 5377, Caliber 581DR, Breguet 581DR

Breguet Classique Grande Complication Tourbillon Extra-Thin 5377, Breguet 5377, BREGUET CLASSIQUE TOURBILLON EXTRA-PLAT AUTOMATIQUE 5377
Breguet Calibre 581DR extra-thin self-winding movement with tourbillon

Secret de la Reine
One of the most beautiful ladies timepieces at Baselworld is the Secret de la Reine. Hidden beneath the hand-carved shell cameo is a brilliant pavé dial. Adding to the elegance of this exquisite timepiece is its beautiful bracelet. Breguet describes the bracelet as a, “cloth of gold imitating the loops of a pleated ribbon.” The bracelet is both gorgeous and comfortable as it drapes on the wrist. Available in white or rose gold, the timepiece is fitted with the Calibre 586 automatic movement with silicon balance spring.

Secret de la Reine, GJ24BB8548DDCJ99
Secret de la Reine

Secret de la Reine, GJ24BB8548DDCJ99

Secret de la Reine, GJ24BB8548DDCJ99

Secret de la Reine, GJ24BB8548DDCJ99

Secret de la Reine, GJ24BB8548DDCJ99

Secret de la Reine, GJ24BB8548DDCJ99

Caliber 586, Breguet 586, Secret de la Reine, GJ24BB8548DDCJ99
Calibre 586 self-winding movement with silicon balance spring

Les Volants de la Reine
Inspired by the dresses worn by Breguet’s first female client, Queen Marie-Antoinette, Les Volants de la Reine is an elegant jewellery watch with complex forms. The case evokes 18th century frills and ruffed lace, with precious stones that resemble flowing fabrics and bows.

The 18-carat white gold case measures 33mm x 25 mm and is set with 146 brilliant-cut diamonds (~2,848 cts). The flange is set with 66 brilliant-cut diamonds (~0,132 ct). The frills are set with 193 brilliant-cut diamonds (~1,07 ct), 11 baguette diamonds (~0,35 ct) and two cushion-cut sapphires (~0,59 ct). The crown set with a briolette diamond (~0,28 ct). Attachment paved with a frosting of 61 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0,478 ct).

The sapphire crystal display back reveals a beautifully finished Calibre 586 self-winding movement.

Les Volants de la Reine, GJ28BB8924DDS8
Les Volants de la Reine

Les Volants de la Reine, GJ28BB8924DDS8

Les Volants de la Reine, GJ28BB8924DDS8

Les Volants de la Reine, GJ28BB8924DDS8
Calibre 586 self-winding movement with silicon balance spring

Breguet Classique Dame 9068
The Classique Dame 9068 is a simple, thin watch that indicates the hours, minutes, seconds and date. The engine-turned dial is framed by an 18-carat gold case that measures 33.5mm in diameter. The bezel and lugs are gem-set with diamond. Available in white or rose gold, the timepiece is fitted with the Calibre 591A automatic movement with silicon balance spring.

Breguet Classique Dame 9068, Breguet 9068
Breguet Classique Dame 9068

Breguet Classique Dame 9068, Breguet 9068

Breguet Classique Dame 9068, Breguet 9068

Breguet Classique Dame 9068, Breguet 9068

Caliber 591A, Breguet 591A, Breguet Classique Dame 9068, Breguet 9068
Calibre 591A self-winding movement with silicon balance spring

Reine de Naples Princesse 8968
The Reine de Naples Princesse 8968 updates the Reine de Naples collection with a modern and stylized engine-turned dial. The 18-carat gold dial is available in either a silvered finish (shown) or an anthracite finish. The 18-carat gold egg shape case is curved to fit comfortably on the wrist. The timepiece is fitted with the Calibre 591C self-winding movement with silicon balance spring.

Breguet Reine de Naples Princesse 8968, Reine de Naples Princesse
Reine de Naples Princesse 8968 with silvered dial

Breguet Reine de Naples Princesse 8968, Reine de Naples Princesse

Breguet Reine de Naples Princesse 8968, Reine de Naples Princesse

Breguet Reine de Naples Princesse 8968, Reine de Naples Princesse

Calibre 591C, Breguet 591C, Breguet Reine de Naples Princesse 8968, Reine de Naples Princesse
Calibre 591C self-winding movement with silicon balance spring

See also Breguet Forum Live Photos: Breguet at Baselworld 2014
Photos: Paul Boutros

Read more

Live Photos: Girard-Perregaux at Baselworld 2014

Jessica

During Baselworld 2014, TimeZone presented Girard-Perregaux with the 2013 Watch of the Year Award for its outstanding Constant Escapement L.M. After the award presentation, Girard-Perregaux introduced the full range of its newest creations:

timezone watch of the year, timezone 2013 watch of the year

Vintage 1945 XXL Blue

Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 XXL, GP Vintage 1945 XXL, Vintage 1945 XXL

Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 XXL, GP Vintage 1945 XXL, Vintage 1945 XXL

Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 XXL, GP Vintage 1945 XXL, Vintage 1945 XXL

Vintage 1945 XXL Large Date Moonphase Skeleton

Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 XXL Large Date Moonphase Skeleton, GP Vintage 1945 XXL Large Date Moonphase Skeleton, Vintage 1945 Skeleton

Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 XXL Large Date Moonphase Skeleton, GP Vintage 1945 XXL Large Date Moonphase Skeleton, Vintage 1945 Skeleton

Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 XXL Large Date Moonphase Skeleton, GP Vintage 1945 XXL Large Date Moonphase Skeleton, Vintage 1945 Skeleton

Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 XXL Large Date Moonphase Skeleton, GP Vintage 1945 XXL Large Date Moonphase Skeleton, Vintage 1945 Skeleton

Sea Hawk Blue & Orange

Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk Blue Orange, GP Sea Hawk Blue Orange, Sea Hawk Blue Orange,  Reference 49960-19-431-FK4A, 49960-19-431-FK4A

Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk Blue Orange, GP Sea Hawk Blue Orange, Sea Hawk Blue Orange,  Reference 49960-19-431-FK4A, 49960-19-431-FK4A

Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk Blue Orange, GP Sea Hawk Blue Orange, Sea Hawk Blue Orange,  Reference 49960-19-431-FK4A, 49960-19-431-FK4A

Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk Blue Orange, GP Sea Hawk Blue Orange, Sea Hawk Blue Orange,  Reference 49960-19-431-FK4A, 49960-19-431-FK4A

Chrono Hawk on Steel Bracelet

Girard-Perregaux Chrono Hawk Steel, GP Chrono Hawk Steel, Chrono Hawk Steel, Chrono Hawk Steel Bracelet, reference 49970-11-133-11A, 49970-11-133-11A

Girard-Perregaux Chrono Hawk Steel, GP Chrono Hawk Steel, Chrono Hawk Steel, Chrono Hawk Steel Bracelet, reference 49970-11-133-11A, 49970-11-133-11A

Girard-Perregaux Chrono Hawk Steel, GP Chrono Hawk Steel, Chrono Hawk Steel, Chrono Hawk Steel Bracelet, reference 49970-11-133-11A, 49970-11-133-11A

Girard-Perregaux Chrono Hawk Steel, GP Chrono Hawk Steel, Chrono Hawk Steel, Chrono Hawk Steel Bracelet, reference 49970-11-133-11A, 49970-11-133-11A

Girard-Perregaux Chrono Hawk Steel, GP Chrono Hawk Steel, Chrono Hawk Steel, Chrono Hawk Steel Bracelet, reference 49970-11-133-11A, 49970-11-133-11A

Cat’s Eye Anniversary

Girard-Perregaux Cat's Eye Anniversary, GP Cat's Eye Anniversary, Cat's Eye Anniversary, GP Cat's Eye

Girard-Perregaux Cat's Eye Anniversary, GP Cat's Eye Anniversary, Cat's Eye Anniversary, GP Cat's Eye

Girard-Perregaux Cat's Eye Anniversary, GP Cat's Eye Anniversary, Cat's Eye Anniversary, GP Cat's Eye

Cat’s Eye Bloom

Girard-Perregaux Cat's Eye Bloom, GP Cat's Eye Bloom, Cat's Eye Bloom, GP Cat's Eye

Girard-Perregaux Cat's Eye Bloom, GP Cat's Eye Bloom, Cat's Eye Bloom, GP Cat's Eye

Neo-Tourbillon Three Bridges
GP has transformed its legendary Three Bridges model into a new standard in design and craftsmanship. The architecture and codes have been preserved: however the changes made are captured in the design of the Bridges, the shape of the crystal, and in the heart of the completely redesigned caliber. 45mm pink gold case with an anthracite ruthenium mainplate that is sandblasted. The three titanium bridges are PVD treated, arrow shaped, beveled and sandblasted.

Girard-Perregaux Neo-Tourbillon Three Bridges, GP Neo-Tourbillon Three Bridges, Neo-Tourbillon Three Bridges, Neo-Tourbillon

Girard-Perregaux Neo-Tourbillon Three Bridges, GP Neo-Tourbillon Three Bridges, Neo-Tourbillon Three Bridges, Neo-Tourbillon

Girard-Perregaux Neo-Tourbillon Three Bridges, GP Neo-Tourbillon Three Bridges, Neo-Tourbillon Three Bridges, Neo-Tourbillon

Girard-Perregaux Neo-Tourbillon Three Bridges, GP Neo-Tourbillon Three Bridges, Neo-Tourbillon Three Bridges, Neo-Tourbillon

Girard-Perregaux Neo-Tourbillon Three Bridges, GP Neo-Tourbillon Three Bridges, Neo-Tourbillon Three Bridges, Neo-Tourbillon

Girard-Perregaux Neo-Tourbillon Three Bridges, GP Neo-Tourbillon Three Bridges, Neo-Tourbillon Three Bridges, Neo-Tourbillon

Girard-Perregaux Neo-Tourbillon Three Bridges, GP Neo-Tourbillon Three Bridges, Neo-Tourbillon Three Bridges, Neo-Tourbillon

Girard-Perregaux Neo-Tourbillon Three Bridges, GP Neo-Tourbillon Three Bridges, Neo-Tourbillon Three Bridges, Neo-Tourbillon

Bi-Axial Tourbillon Tantalum and Sapphire

Girard-Perregaux Bi-Axial Tourbillon Tantalum Sapphire, GP Bi-Axial Tourbillon Tantalum Sapphire, Bi-Axial Tourbillon Tantalum, Bi-Axial Tourbillon, reference 99810-81-000-BA6A, 99810-81-000-BA6A

Girard-Perregaux Bi-Axial Tourbillon Tantalum Sapphire, GP Bi-Axial Tourbillon Tantalum Sapphire, Bi-Axial Tourbillon Tantalum, Bi-Axial Tourbillon, reference 99810-81-000-BA6A, 99810-81-000-BA6A

Girard-Perregaux Bi-Axial Tourbillon Tantalum Sapphire, GP Bi-Axial Tourbillon Tantalum Sapphire, Bi-Axial Tourbillon Tantalum, Bi-Axial Tourbillon, reference 99810-81-000-BA6A, 99810-81-000-BA6A

Tri-Axial Tourbillon
The Tri-Axial Tourbillon represents a major success for Girard-Perregaux and a new step for the Manufacture in its quest for chronometric perfection with a high-speed tourbillon on three separate axes.

A complex mechanism aimed at optimizing chronometric precision, the tourbillon has been a specialty of Girard-Perregaux for over a century and a half. Once again, the Manufacture at La Chaux-de-Fonds demonstrates its mastery of the subject, taking its search for precision even further with the Tri-Axial Tourbillon. 48mm pink gold case with anthracite dial and manufacture Caliber GP09300-0001 manual wind movement.

Girard-Perregaux Tri-Axial Tourbillon, GP Tri-Axial Tourbillon, Tri-Axial Tourbillon, GP09300-0001

Girard-Perregaux Tri-Axial Tourbillon, GP Tri-Axial Tourbillon, Tri-Axial Tourbillon, GP09300-0001

Girard-Perregaux Tri-Axial Tourbillon, GP Tri-Axial Tourbillon, Tri-Axial Tourbillon, GP09300-0001

Girard-Perregaux Tri-Axial Tourbillon, GP Tri-Axial Tourbillon, Tri-Axial Tourbillon, GP09300-0001

Girard-Perregaux Tri-Axial Tourbillon, GP Tri-Axial Tourbillon, Tri-Axial Tourbillon, GP09300-0001

Girard-Perregaux Tri-Axial Tourbillon, GP Tri-Axial Tourbillon, Tri-Axial Tourbillon, GP09300-0001

Girard-Perregaux Tri-Axial Tourbillon, GP Tri-Axial Tourbillon, Tri-Axial Tourbillon, GP09300-0001

Girard-Perregaux Tri-Axial Tourbillon, GP Tri-Axial Tourbillon, Tri-Axial Tourbillon, GP09300-0001

Girard-Perregaux Tri-Axial Tourbillon, GP Tri-Axial Tourbillon, Tri-Axial Tourbillon, GP09300-0001

Girard-Perregaux Tri-Axial Tourbillon, GP Tri-Axial Tourbillon, Tri-Axial Tourbillon, GP09300-0001

Girard-Perregaux Tri-Axial Tourbillon, GP Tri-Axial Tourbillon, Tri-Axial Tourbillon, GP09300-0001

See also Girard-Perregaux Forum Live Photos: Girard-Perregaux at Baselworld 2014
Photos: Paul Boutros

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A Conversation with Shinji Hattori, President & CEO of Seiko

A Conversation with Shinji Hattori, President & CEO of Seiko

A conversation in March 2014 by Jessica

During Baselworld 2014, TimeZone met with Shinji Hattori, President & CEO of Seiko Watch Corporation (Seiko). Mr. Hattori is the great-grandson of Kintaro Hattori, who founded Seiko in 1881. From an early age, Mr. Hattori’s commitment focused exclusively on Seiko. This is different from the typical Fortune 500 CEO whose average tenure at a company is a few years. Mr. Hattori’s steady and continuous commitment to Seiko is certainly reflected in its success. Today, one-third of the world’s watches use Seiko components and demand for high-grade Seiko watches continues to increase worldwide with sales seeing double-digit growth.

Mr. Hattori shares his personal values and insight into how Japan’s oldest watch and clock manufacturer continues to stay one step ahead of the competition. He discusses his involvement in developing the Astron GPS, the significance of the Grand Seiko Historical Collection, the first US Seiko Boutique that opens in August, as well as the the company’s long-term plans to expand its US service center.

Shinji Hattori, Seiko Baselworld 2014, CEO Seiko, Hattori Seiko, President CEO Seiko Watch Corporation
Shinji Hattori, President & CEO of Seiko

TimeZone (TZ): Were you involved in the development and design of the Astron GPS?

Shinji Hattori (SH): Yes. Astron is a project that is very close to my heart and I was involved in every aspect of its development.

TZ: How did you conceive of the Astron GPS?

SH: We’re now experiencing rapid globalisation and I felt we needed to develop watches that were also borderless. I had been thinking for a while that a watch that adjusted to the exact time anywhere on Earth could be very convenient and popular. In 2005, we began a brainstorming project to envision our future watches. Everyone agreed our biggest dream was making a watch with a GPS function. The GPS watch provides exact local time anywhere, even in the middle of the Pacific Ocean or on top of Mt. Everest.

TZ: From 2005 until 2012, that’s seven years from the time the Astron GPS was conceived until it came to market. That seems like a long-term commitment to the project?

SH: Our engineers are given a lot of freedom to pursue whatever they think is innovative, and they’re given the time and resources to do it.

TZ: It seems like Seiko’s commitment paid off.

SH: The first technical revolution was the first quartz watch [the original Seiko Astron of 1969]. We introduced the new Astron in 2012 as the second technical revolution. The new Astron will be as important as the first quartz watch in terms of its impact on the watch industry. Many tens of thousands of customers are now wearing the new Astron. We expect that with the addition of the new Caliber 8X82, the growth will extend into 2014.

As for the long-term, please think of this. Astron is not just a watch. It is a platform on which the future of Seiko’s watch business will be built. That means that the Astron may be the de facto standard in the watch industry.

TZ: Can you describe the typical Astron customer?

SH: Private customers for Astron are young people, successful people, the international business community and the world business traveller. These people want watches that are distinctive, and they want a watch that shows the world that they have a strong sense of style. So we were careful to make Astron’s design different and to reflect in the design the functions of the watch.

TZ: This year, the Astron GPS Chronograph has a smaller case dimension and is thinner.

SH: Yes, the new Astron is 30% smaller than the existing one. It’s also lighter and the operation is easier and more intuitive.

TZ: The original Astron GPS seems more sporty. It seems with the new Astron GPS Chronograph, the design has taken a turn towards elegance?

SH: Yes, we are adding 11 new models this year for a total of over 20 models with two calibers. We’re making more design variations for wider appeal. For example, we’ll have a luxury version.

For example, and this is just an idea, but if a very wealthy person like a King or Sheikh commissions 100 million Japanese Yen [~$1 million], we could organise a unique jewellery version.

TZ: A high jewellery Astron GPS?

SH: That’s just an example of an idea we’re considering. [Earlier,] I explained about one new model with a resort concept. We have existing models that are appropriate for the office. Now we have a new version that anyone can wear, including ladies, to the resort.

Astron GPS Solar Chronograph Resort, Seiko Astron GPS luxury
Astron GPS Chronograph is 30% smaller, thinner & lighter with more styles, including a “resort” concept

TZ: I really liked last year’s Kintaro Hattori Astron. In a very subtle way, the design details communicate so much about the Seiko brand as a whole. In particular, the case back is engraved, “One Step Ahead of the Rest”. Can you explain the meaning of this ideal?

SH: Kintaro always said, ‘With no hurry or rest, always stay one step ahead of the rest. Not two or three steps. Taking too many steps ahead would distance you from the public. One step ahead is important.’

TZ: So, today, how does Seiko stay one step ahead of the competition?

SH: Seiko is famous for its cutting edge technology. Seiko has always sought advanced technologies. In our 100-year history of wristwatches, we have made so many of the world’s firsts. At the same time, we also have a long history of fine craftsmanship in making mechanical watches. So I think our strength is that we have both. Astron is the symbol of hi-tech. Grand Seiko is the symbol of Seiko’s craftsmanship.

Until five or six years ago, Grand Seiko was kept within Japan and it was popular within Asia. Then, ever since we announced Grand Seiko as an international brand, it’s been growing in popularity in Europe and, of course, it’s growing in popularity in the USA. I’m sure in the future, Grand Seiko will be recognised as an international luxury brand.

TZ: Last year, we saw the Grand Seiko 44GS Tribute as the first introduction in the Historical Collection. This year, we see the Grand Seiko Self-Dater Tribute as the second addition to the Historical Collection. Is the Historical Collection a permanent collection and are there plans to reissue other historical Grand Seiko models?

SH: Yes. The answer is yes. We will always bring to market models that show the new international audience that Grand Seiko is a brand with a long history and rich heritage.

Grand Seiko combines innovation with a sense of our history. That is why the new caliber hi-beat GMT [Caliber 9S86] and our most advanced caliber, the Spring Drive, are reserved exclusively for Grand Seiko.

Today, you see a wider Grand Seiko collection than you have ever seen before. But Grand Seiko is not a nostalgia brand. Grand Seiko will always look to the future more than it looks to the past.

Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT, Hi-Beat GMT, Seiko Caliber 9S86
Grand Seiko will always look to the future more than it looks to the past – Shinji Hattori

TZ: Is Seiko planning to open its first US boutique on Madison Avenue?

SH: Yes, the new Seiko Boutique opening party will be held on August 19, 2014. Also, at the opening will be the announcement of a new Astron.

TZ: Will the new US boutique be managed by Seiko?

SH: Yes, it’s managed by Seiko USA.

TZ: Are there future plans to service Grand Seiko in the US?

SH: Yes, in the future we have plans to service Grand Seiko in the USA. For now, most of the Grand Seiko servicing is done in Japan. Some parts, like the bracelet or case parts, can be serviced now in the USA. But with the growth of Grand Seiko, we plan to be able to service Grand Seiko entirely in the United States.

TZ: Is Credor going to be available in the US?

SH: At the present moment, we do not have plans for Credor in the USA. In the future, it may be possible. But for now, we’re sticking with Astron and Grand Seiko as the most important international brands.

TZ: Then, another big announcement this year is that PROSPEX is going international. Seiko’s sports segment seems to be growing, along with the increasing number of athlete sponsorships?

SH: Yes, Seiko served as official timekeeper to the Tokyo Olympics in 1964. The Olympics made Seiko famous in sports. Today, the [selection of] Seiko sports watches is getting bigger and wider.

In Europe, we sponsored FC Barcelona, 49er Yachting and [Russian professional long jumper] Darya Klishina . We also sponsor Hope Solo and Landon Donovan, who help promote our strength in sports, official timing activities and athletics. This year, we announced that we sponsor Novak Djokovik. He will also help promote PROSPEX, our elite collection of professional sports watches that is opening to the international market. You will see a new and very different campaign for PROSPEX with Novak Djokovik.

TZ: How relevant do you consider the Internet to Seiko?

SH: Yes. The Internet is relevant in terms of marketing, sales and then PR in the most major way.

When you think about Grand Seiko, it’s been a secret for 50 years. What changed is the Internet. The Internet, TimeZone and many others, have put the reputation of Grand Seiko out there and we had to internationalise Grand Seiko. And now, the reputation of Grand Seiko is growing primarily because of the Internet. If we look at the coverage in the media of Grand Seiko, it’s disproportionate to its sales or its retail distribution. The power of the Internet is best expressed by Grand Seiko.

It’s strange that a traditional watch would be so susceptible to the most modern of communication media. In large part, in the USA especially, thanks to TimeZone.

TZ: Mr. Hattori, thank you very much for your time and this rare opportunity to speak with you. In following a tradition on TimeZone, may I ask what timepiece are you wearing?

SH: Yes, thank you very much. I’m wearing the Astron GPS Solar Chronograph Limited Edition.

Shinji Hattori, CEO Seiko, Hattori Seiko, President CEO Seiko Watch Corporation, Astron GPS Solar Chronograph SSE001 Limited Edition
Shinji Hattori wearing the new Astron GPS Solar Chronograph LE

Shinji Hattori, CEO Seiko, Hattori Seiko, President CEO Seiko Watch Corporation, Astron GPS Solar Chronograph SSE001 Limited Edition
Astron GPS Solar Chronograph LE, SSE001

See also Seiko Forum Basel 2014: A Look at the Seiko Novelties
See also Seiko Forum A Conversation with Shinji Hattori, President & CEO of Seiko

Photos: Paul Boutros
© Timezone. All rights reserved.

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Basel 2014: Introducing the MB&F Legacy Machine N°1 Xia Hang

Jessica

It’s always fun to visit MB&F to see what’s cooking in the concept lab. This year, we got to play with the Legacy Machine N°1 Xia Hang (LM1 Xia Hang). Maximilian Büsser & Friends have taken the iconic dial of the original Legacy Machine N°1, to create the coolest. power reserve. ever.

The LM1 Xia Hang is a collaboration between MB&F and Chinese artist Xia Hang in Beijing. The timepiece retains all of the 19th century pocket watch-inspired features of the original LM1, including the suspended oscillating balance wheel and dual-time indications that can be set completely independently. The twist is that the power reserve is indicated by a polished alien creature known as “Mr. Up” and “Mr. Down” because his head rises and drops to indicate the power stored in the movement.

After working for 45-hours, Mr. Down’s polished aluminium head drops to indicate that his energy levels are low. Winding him up, Mr. Up sits up straight and is brought back to life.

The LM1 Xia Hang is a limited edition of 12 pieces in red gold and 12 pieces in white gold. Each Legacy Machine is accompanied by a pair of large-scale sculptures of Mr. Up and Mr. Down crafted in stainless steel and signed by Xia Hang.

MB&F Legacy Machine No.1 Xia Hang, Legacy Machine, LM1 Xia Hang, MB&F Xia Hang, Xia Hang, MB&F Mr Up, MB&F Mr Down, MB&F MAD Gallery
LM1 Xia Hang in red gold (LE of 12)

MB&F Legacy Machine No.1 Xia Hang, Legacy Machine, LM1 Xia Hang, MB&F Xia Hang, Xia Hang, MB&F Mr Up, MB&F Mr Down, MB&F MAD Gallery

MB&F Legacy Machine No.1 Xia Hang, Legacy Machine, LM1 Xia Hang, MB&F Xia Hang, Xia Hang, MB&F Mr Up, MB&F Mr Down, MB&F MAD Gallery

MB&F Legacy Machine No.1 Xia Hang, Legacy Machine, LM1 Xia Hang, MB&F Xia Hang, Xia Hang, MB&F Mr Up, MB&F Mr Down, MB&F MAD Gallery

MB&F Legacy Machine No.1 Xia Hang, Legacy Machine, LM1 Xia Hang, MB&F Xia Hang, Xia Hang, MB&F Mr Up, MB&F Mr Down, MB&F MAD Gallery

MB&F Legacy Machine No.1 Xia Hang, Legacy Machine, LM1 Xia Hang, MB&F Xia Hang, Xia Hang, MB&F Mr Up, MB&F Mr Down, MB&F MAD Gallery
Legacy Machine N°1

MB&F Legacy Machine No.1 Xia Hang, Legacy Machine, LM1 Xia Hang, MB&F Xia Hang, Xia Hang, MB&F Mr Up, MB&F Mr Down, MB&F MAD Gallery
LM1 Xia Hang in white gold & blue dial (LE of 12)

MB&F Legacy Machine No.1 Xia Hang, Legacy Machine, LM1 Xia Hang, MB&F Xia Hang, Xia Hang, MB&F Mr Up, MB&F Mr Down, MB&F MAD Gallery
Each LM1 Xia Hang is accompanied by signed sculptures of Mr. Up and Mr. Down

See also Independent Watch Forum Basel 2014: Introducing the MB&F Legacy Machine N°1 Xia Hang
Photos: Paul Boutros

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Live Photos: Maurice Lacroix at Baselworld 2014

Jessica

For 2014, Maurice Lacroix presents a number of impressive new models from the avant-garde to the sportif. The Masterpiece collection is the top of the pyramid at Maurice Lacroix. The Masterpiece collection offers inventive, clean designs with one of over a dozen manufacture movements. All this, plus the Masterpiece collection continues to impress with its reasonable pricing.

This year, the new additions to the Masterpiece collection include the Gravity that combines a contemporary design with a cutting-edge manufacture movement with silicon escapement; the Mystery dial adds colour for improved legibility; and new variations of the iconic Square Wheel.

Also new this year, the Pontos S Supercharge updates the look of the popular sports watch with a knurled bezel and crown and then goes large on the case dimensions with a new 48mm diameter.

Masterpiece Gravity
The new Masterpiece Gravity is a veritable feather in the brand’s cap. Not only is the design contemporary, but so is the cutting-edge manufacture Calibre ML230 with silicon escapement. As one of the handful of watchmaking companies with the capability to manufacture its own escapement assembly (balance staff, pallet lever, pallet staff, escapement wheel and escapement wheel pinion), Maurice Lacroix is even more rarefied for having the technology to manufacture an entire escapement out of silicium. Silicium is a self-lubricating, glass-like material that is three times lighter than steel.

The Masterpiece Gravity is available in a Classical model with 43mm stainless steel case, and a Contemporary model with a 43mm stainless steel case with anthracite PVD finish. The domed sapphire crystal magnifies the fine finishing details, including the white lacquer off-centre dial, guilloché bridges and the distinct hue of the silicium balance wheel. Each model is limited in production to 250 pieces each and priced at CHF 10’500.

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Gravity, Maurice Lacroix ML230, silicon escapement, MP6118-SS001-110, Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece
Masterpiece Gravity Classic, MP6118-SS001-110

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Gravity, Maurice Lacroix ML230, silicon escapement, MP6118-SS001-110, Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece
In-house silicon escapement assembly manufactured by Maurice Lacroix

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Gravity, Maurice Lacroix ML230, silicon escapement, MP6118-SS001-110, Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece
Off-centre hours and minutes on a white lacquer dial

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Gravity, Maurice Lacroix ML230, silicon escapement, MP6118-SS001-110, Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Gravity, Maurice Lacroix ML230, silicon escapement, Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Gravity, Maurice Lacroix ML230, silicon escapement, Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece
Manufacture Calibre ML230 35-jewel automatic movement

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Gravity, Maurice Lacroix ML230, silicon escapement, Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Gravity, Maurice Lacroix ML230, silicon escapement, MP6118-PVB01-130, Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Gravity, Maurice Lacroix ML230, silicon escapement, MP6118-PVB01-130, Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece
In-house silicon escapement assembly manufactured by Maurice Lacroix

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Gravity, Maurice Lacroix ML230, silicon escapement, MP6118-PVB01-130, Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Gravity, Maurice Lacroix ML230, silicon escapement, MP6118-PVB01-130, Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece
Off-centre hours and minutes on a white lacquer dial

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Gravity, Maurice Lacroix ML230, silicon escapement, MP6118-PVB01-130, Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece
Manufacture Calibre ML230 35-jewel automatic movement

Masterpiece Mystery
The Masterpiece Mystery has an openwork dial with an off-centre time display and a large mystery seconds display. The seconds display has a hand that mysteriously floats under a vertical and horizontal axis. This year’s Masterpiece Mystery is available in Classic or Contemporary versions. The Masterpiece Mystery Classic features a dark blue scale with the hours and minutes in white Arabic numerals. The seconds hand is tipped in blue on one end and black at the other end. The seconds hand floats above the large seconds display under a blue vertical axis and black horizontal axis.

The Masterpiece Mystery Contemporary features a black scale with the hours and minutes in white Arabic numerals. The seconds hand is tipped in white on one end and red at the other end. The seconds hand floats above the large seconds display under a white vertical axis and red horizontal axis.

The Masterpiece Mystery has a 43mm stainless steel case and is powered by the manufacture Calibre ML215 automatic movement. Each version is limited to 250 pieces each and priced at CHF 12’500.

Maurice Lacroix Mystery, MP6558-SS001-094, Calibre ML215

Maurice Lacroix Mystery, MP6558-SS001-094, Calibre ML215

Maurice Lacroix Mystery, MP6558-SS001-094, Calibre ML215
The seconds hand mysteriously floats under a vertical and horizontal axis

Maurice Lacroix Mystery, MP6558-SS001-094, Calibre ML215

Maurice Lacroix Mystery, MP6558-SS001-094, Calibre ML215

Maurice Lacroix Mystery, MP6558-SS001-094, Calibre ML215
Manufacture Calibre ML215 48-jewel automatic movement

Masterpiece Square Wheel
The Square Wheel is the M.C. Escher of horology. Playing on architecture, perspective and impossible spaces, the Square Wheel dispenses with a normal dial to reveal a square wheel and a clover-shaped wheel that mesh perfectly. The complex wheel shapes on the dial are also functional components of the movement inside. Each wheel requires sophisticated UV-LiGA technology for high-precision tooth profiling to ensure that the wheels engage flawlessly and without any loss in power transmission. Clean and simple in appearance, the wheels are circular brushed to highlight their form and draw the eyes to their hypnotic motion.

The 43mm stainless steel case is fitted with a domed sapphire crystal treated with antiglare on both sides. The timepiece houses the hand-wound manufacture Calibre ML156 that is manufactured and assembled in-house by Maurice Lacroix. Price is CHF 9’900.

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Square Wheel, Maurice Lacroix Square Wheel, Calibre ML156, MP7158-SS001-101, Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece
Masterpiece Square Wheel with white dial, MP7158-SS001-101

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Square Wheel, Maurice Lacroix Square Wheel, Calibre ML156, MP7158-SS001-101, Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece
The patented dial design is both form and function

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Square Wheel, Maurice Lacroix Square Wheel, Calibre ML156, MP7158-SS001-101, Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Square Wheel, Maurice Lacroix Square Wheel, Calibre ML156, MP7158-SS001-301, Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece
Masterpiece Square Wheel with black dial, MP7158-SS001-301

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Square Wheel, Maurice Lacroix Square Wheel, Calibre ML156, Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece
Manufacture Calibre ML156 34-jewel hand-wound movement

Pontos S Supercharged
Finally, the popular Pontos collection adds the super sized 48mm Pontos S Supercharged. The sports chronograph has a new knurled outer bezel and crown, but the design otherwise remains unchanged. The dial is highly legible and is available with either red accents or yellow accents. The timepiece houses a personalised ETA Valgranges automatic movement. Prices are CHF 4’700 in red with stainless steel case, and CHF 4’900 in yellow with stainless steel case in anthracite PVD.

Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Supercharged, PT6009-SS001-330, Maurice Lacroix Pontos
Pontos S Supercharged with red accents, MP6118-SS001-110

Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Supercharged, PT6009-SS001-330, Maurice Lacroix Pontos

Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Supercharged, PT6009-PVB01-330, Maurice Lacroix Pontos
Pontos S Supercharged with yellow accents, PT6009-PVB01-330

Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Supercharged, PT6009-PVB01-330, Maurice Lacroix Pontos

Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Supercharged, PT6009-PVB01-330, Maurice Lacroix Pontos
The rotating inner bezel is adjusted using the patented push & turn crown at 2 o’clock

Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Supercharged, PT6009-PVB01-330, Maurice Lacroix Pontos

Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Supercharged, PT6009-PVB01-330, Maurice Lacroix Pontos

Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Supercharged, PT6009-PVB01-330, Maurice Lacroix Pontos

See also Live Photos: Maurice Lacroix at Baselworld 2014
Photos: Paul Boutros

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Live Photos: Ulysse Nardin at Baselworld 2014

Jessica

For 2014, Ulysse Nardin unveils two exceptional musical timepieces. The first exceptional timepiece is the Imperial Blue minute repeating watch with carillon Westminster chime with four hammers on four gongs suspended from a blue sapphire crystal bridge. The timepiece looks as exquisite as it sounds with a flying tourbillon that floats on a transparent sapphire main plate.

The second exceptional timepiece is the Stranger musical watch with a rotating disc carrying pins that act on musical blades. When the disc rotates, the pins engage one of the blades to create a note. Altogether, the pins play the romantic melody “Strangers in the Night”.

The Freak Blue Cruiser updates the iconic Freak with a new manual-winding movement with 7-day carrousel Flying tourbillon and the iconic “Dual Ulysse” escapement.

The Caliber UN-32 GMT perpetual calendar is Ulysse Nardin’s signature movement and new for this year is the option of the movement in the classically designed Perpetual Manufacture or the more aggressive, hi-tech designed Black Toro.

For years, Ulysse Nardin has focused on in-house developed and manufactured calibers for its hi-tech and high complication timepieces. For the past year, Ulysse Nardin started to implement in-house calibers for its basic day/date timepieces. For 2014, manufacture movements find their way into a Ulysse Nardin chronometer, chronograph and dual time with an eye towards the Spring 2017, when Ulysse Nardin will be entirely independent and fitting in-house movements in all its timepieces.

Imperial Blue
The Imperial Blue is an horological masterpiece that features a flying tourbillon, Grande Sonnerie Westminster Carillon and an innovative double barrel system that results in a 50-hour power reserve.

The skeletonised hands provide an unobstructed view of the dramatic dial. At 6 o’clock, a flying tourbillon seemingly floats on a transparent bottom plate and is decorated with a faceted, blue sapphire end-stone. Every finishing detail adds to the dramatic effect, from the rhodium-plated balance wheel and balance screws, to the the heat-blued screws used for the tourbillon carriage, and the blued scale of the micrometer regulator. Above the flying tourbillon, a Sonnerie Westminster Carillon is suspended from a blue sapphire crystal bridge. The hours strike automatically with four hammers that are cleverly stacked in pairs. Each hammer is discreetly engraved “Mi”, “Do”, “Re” and “Sol”. The repeating hours, quarters and minutes are activated on demand by the repeater slide on the case at 9 o’clock. The polished white-gold case measures 46mm and the striking mechanism can be turned on/off on the caseback.

The ingenious double barrel system guarantees a fully operating Sonnerie by separating the energy required for the striking mechanism from the movement. One barrel is wound partially by activating the repeater slide, or by manually winding the crown. Manually winding the crown also winds a second barrel that is dedicated to the movement. When fully wound, the caliber UN-970 has a 50-hour power reserve.

The Imperial Blue is produced in a very limited edition of 20 pieces and at a price of CHF 750’000. A gem-set model with baguettes is also being produced in an even smaller production of 8 editions, with a price yet to be determined.

Ulysse Nardin Imperial Blue, UN 9700-125, Ulysse Nardin flying tourbillon Grande Sonnerie Westminster Carillon, Ulysse Nardin WESTMINSTER CHIME CARILLON MINUTE REPEATER, Ulysse Nardin Caliber UN-970, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014
Imperial Blue in 18K white gold, Ref. 9700-125 (LE of 20)

Ulysse Nardin Imperial Blue, UN 9700-125, Ulysse Nardin flying tourbillon Grande Sonnerie Westminster Carillon, Ulysse Nardin WESTMINSTER CHIME CARILLON MINUTE REPEATER, Ulysse Nardin Caliber UN-970, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014

Ulysse Nardin Imperial Blue, UN 9700-125, Ulysse Nardin flying tourbillon Grande Sonnerie Westminster Carillon, Ulysse Nardin Caliber UN-970, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014
The hours strike automatically with four hammers that are cleverly stacked in pairs

Ulysse Nardin Imperial Blue, UN 9700-125, Ulysse Nardin flying tourbillon Grande Sonnerie Westminster Carillon, Ulysse Nardin Caliber UN-970, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014

Ulysse Nardin Imperial Blue, UN 9700-125, Ulysse Nardin flying tourbillon Grande Sonnerie Westminster Carillon, Ulysse Nardin Caliber UN-970, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014

Ulysse Nardin Imperial Blue, UN 9700-125, Ulysse Nardin flying tourbillon Grande Sonnerie Westminster Carillon, Ulysse Nardin Caliber UN-970, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014
The repeating hours, quarters & minutes are activated on demand by the repeater slide on the case

Ulysse Nardin Imperial Blue, UN 9700-125, Ulysse Nardin flying tourbillon Grande Sonnerie Westminster Carillon, Ulysse Nardin Caliber UN-970, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014

Ulysse Nardin Imperial Blue, UN 9700-125, Ulysse Nardin flying tourbillon Grande Sonnerie Westminster Carillon, Ulysse Nardin Caliber UN-970, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014
Caliber UN-970 84-jewel manual wind movement with flying tourbillon and Sonnerie Westminster Carillon

Stranger
The Stranger is an in-house mechanical watch fitted with the UN-690 64-jewel automatic movement using silicium technology. The musical mechanism is a rotating disc that carries pins against blades to play the romantic melody “Strangers in the Night” made famous in 1966 by Frank Sinatra.

With its ingenious twin barrel system, energy is managed separately between the movement and the musical mechanism. Winding the crown forwards, winds the barrel for the movement; winding the crown backwards, winds the barrel for the movement and the musical mechanism. This twin barrel system guarantees a fully operating musical mechanism. The melody plays either on the hour or on demand. Like all Ulysse Nardin, the quick-set date system can be corrected forwards or backwards.

The 45mm polished white gold case frames a silver dial. The dial indication at 4 o’clock is denoted with the letters “T” “D” or “W”. Pushing the crown inwards changes an internal setting to easily set the time (“T”), set the date (“D”) or wind (“W”). This clever feature was first invented by Ulysse Nardin for one of its ladies timepieces to prevent a woman from breaking a nail. However, the feature became so popular that Ulysse Nardin is beginning to implement it in men’s timepieces.

The Stranger is the first in this series of musical watches and is limited to 99 pieces.

Ulysse Nardin Stranger, UN 1709-129, Ulysse Nardin Frank Sinatra, Ulysse Nardin Caliber UN-690, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014
Stranger in 18K white gold, Ref. 6900-125 (LE of 99)

Ulysse Nardin Stranger, UN 1709-129, Ulysse Nardin Frank Sinatra, Ulysse Nardin Caliber UN-690, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014

Ulysse Nardin Stranger, UN 1709-129, Ulysse Nardin Frank Sinatra, Ulysse Nardin Caliber UN-690, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014

Ulysse Nardin Stranger, UN 1709-129, Ulysse Nardin Frank Sinatra, Ulysse Nardin Caliber UN-690, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014

Ulysse Nardin Stranger, UN 1709-129, Ulysse Nardin Frank Sinatra, Ulysse Nardin Caliber UN-690, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014

Ulysse Nardin Stranger, UN 1709-129, Ulysse Nardin Frank Sinatra, Ulysse Nardin Caliber UN-690, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014

Freak Blue Cruiser
The Freak “Blue Cruiser” updates the iconic Freak with a new manual-winding movement with 7-day carrousel Flying tourbillon and the iconic “Dual Ulysse” escapement. Consistent with its name, the stacked twin barrels results in a seven day power reserve.

Similar with previous Freaks, the Freak Blue Cruiser does not have a crown; neither does it have an hour nor minutes hand. The movement itself rotates to indicate the time. The upper layer with its narrow white pointer, travels around the barrel one time per hour. This upper layer indicates the minutes. The bottom layer with its broad white pointer, travels around the barrel one time every 12-hours. This bottom layer indicates the hour.

Ulysse Nardin Freak Blue Cruiser, 7-day carrousel Flying tourbillon, Ulysse Nardin Freak, Ulysse Nardin Ref. 2050-131/03, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014
Freak Blue Cruiser with 7-day carrousel Flying tourbillon, Ref. 2050-131/03

Ulysse Nardin Freak Blue Cruiser, Caliber UN-205, 7-day carrousel Flying tourbillon, Ulysse Nardin Freak, Ulysse Nardin Reference 2050-131/03, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014

Ulysse Nardin Freak Blue Cruiser, Caliber UN-205, Ulysse Nardin Freak, Ulysse Nardin Ref. 2050-131/03, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014

Ulysse Nardin Freak Blue Cruiser, Caliber UN-205, Ulysse Nardin Freak, Ulysse Nardin 2050-131/03, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014

Ulysse Nardin Freak Blue Cruiser, Caliber UN-205, Ulysse Nardin Freak, Ulysse Nardin 2050-131/03, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014

Ulysse Nardin Freak Blue Cruiser, Caliber UN-205, Ulysse Nardin Freak, Ulysse Nardin 2050-131/03, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014
Caliber UN-205 19-jewels manual-wind movement with 7-day carrousel, flying tourbillon & “Dual Ulysse” escapement

Perpetual Manufacture
The new Perpetual Manufacture is a classical, clean design that houses the legendary manufacture Caliber UN-32 automatic movement with perpetual calendar with dual time and a patented quick-set date that can be corrected forwards or backwards. The 43mm case is water resistant to 100 meters. Just 250 watches in red gold and 250 in platinum will be made, with each COSC-certified timepiece individually numbered on a plate attached on the case side.

Ulysse Nardin Perpetual Manufacture, Caliber UN-32 GMT perpetual, Ulysse Nardin GMT perpetual calendar, Ulysse Nardin 329-10, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014
Perpetual Manufacture with platinum case & silver guilloché dial, Ref. 329-10 (LE of 250)

Ulysse Nardin Perpetual Manufacture, Caliber UN-32, Ulysse Nardin GMT perpetual calendar, Ulysse Nardin 329-10, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014

Ulysse Nardin Perpetual Manufacture, Caliber UN-32, Ulysse Nardin GMT perpetual calendar, Ulysse Nardin 329-10, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014

Ulysse Nardin Perpetual Manufacture, Caliber UN-32, Ulysse Nardin GMT perpetual calendar, Ulysse Nardin 329-10, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014
Caliber UN-32 34-jewel automatic movement with perpetual calendar & sometime display

El Toro
The Caliber UN-32 is Ulysse Nardin’s signature movement and the Black Toro is a hi-tech, masculine and aggressive looking perpetual calendar with dual time and a patented quick-set date that can be adjusted forwards or backwards. The 18-carat white gold case features a ceramic bezel and measures 43mm. The Black Toro is COSC-certified and water resistant to 100 meters.

Ulysse Nardin Black Toro, Caliber UN-32, Ulysse Nardin GMT perpetual calendar, Ulysse Nardin 320-00-3, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014
Black Toro with 18K white gold & ceramic case and black dial, Ref. 320-00-3

Ulysse Nardin Black Toro, Caliber UN-32, Ulysse Nardin GMT perpetual calendar, Ulysse Nardin 320-00-3, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014

Ulysse Nardin Black Toro, Caliber UN-32, Ulysse Nardin GMT perpetual calendar, Ulysse Nardin 320-00-3, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014
Caliber UN-32 34-jewel automatic movement with perpetual calendar & sometime display

Marine Chronograph Manufacture
In 2012, UN acquired the rights to Ebel’s reputable Caliber 137 chronograph movement. After UN added its own silicium escapement and refined the movement, it renamed it the Caliber UN-150. Following last year’s introduction of the manufacture UN-150 in its Marine Chronograph Manufacture, this year the 43mm cases are now available in lightweight grade 5 titanium that can be polished to look like stainless steel. Retail starts at $12,700.

Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronograph Manufacture, Caliber UN-150, Ulysse Nardin 1506-150/63, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014
Marine Chronograph Manufacture with 18K rose gold case & blue dial, Ref. 1506-150/63

Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronograph Manufacture, Caliber UN-150, Ulysse Nardin 1506-150/63, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014

Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronograph Manufacture, Caliber UN-150, Ulysse Nardin 1506-150/63, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014
Marine Chronograph Manufacture with blue dial, Ref. 1503-150-3/63

Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronograph Manufacture, Caliber UN-150, Ulysse Nardin 1506-150/63, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014

Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronograph Manufacture, Caliber UN-150, Ulysse Nardin 1506-150/63, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014

Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronograph Manufacture, Caliber UN-150, Ulysse Nardin 1506-150/63, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014
Caliber UN-150 25-jewels automatic movement

Marine Chronometer Manufacture
The days of ETA-based chronometers are nearing their end and by Spring 2017, Ulysse Nardin will be fitting manufacture movements exclusively in all its timepieces. This is an important development for Ulysse Nardin, since the Marine Chronometer is the brand’s highest-volume selling collection. The new in-house caliber UN-118 automatic movement has some useful technical advances, including a quick-set date system that can be corrected forwards or backwards and a power reserve that is now extended to 60-hours. In addition, the new 43mm cases are available in grade 5 titanium, which can be polished to look just like stainless steel without the weight behind it. Retail starts at $10,300.

Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Manufacture, Caliber UN-118, Ulysse Nardin 1183-126-7M/40, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014
Marine Chronometer Manufacture with Ti case & white lacquer dial, Ref. 1183-126-7M/40

Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Manufacture, Caliber UN-118, Ulysse Nardin 1183-126-7M/42, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014

Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Manufacture, Caliber UN-118, Ulysse Nardin 1183-126, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014
Marine Chronometer Manufacture with Ti case & black dial, Ref. 1183-126-7M/42

Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Manufacture, Caliber UN-118, Ulysse Nardin 1183-126, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014
Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Manufacture, Caliber UN-118, Ulysse Nardin 1183-126, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014

Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Manufacture, Caliber UN-118, Ulysse Nardin 1183-126, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014

Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Manufacture, Caliber UN-118, Ulysse Nardin 1183-126/43, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014
Marine Chronometer Manufacture with 18K rose gold case & blue dial, Ref. 1186-126/43

Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Manufacture, Caliber UN-118, Ulysse Nardin 1183-126, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014
Caliber UN-118 50-jewels automatic movement

Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Manufacture, Caliber UN-118, Ulysse Nardin 1183-126, Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014

See also Ulysse Nardin Forum Live Photos: Ulysse Nardin at Baselworld 2014

Photos: Paul Boutros

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Live Photos: NOMOS Glashütte at Baselworld 2014

Jessica

For 2014, NOMOS Glashütte continues to assert its independence as a German manufactory by developing its own swing system (escapement). Only a few watchmaking companies in the world manufacture their own escapement assembly and NOMOS invested €11 million to develop its own “swing system” assembly. Last year, NOMOS integrated its swing system assembly into 10,000 of its watch movements on a trial-basis and, this year, NOMOS continues to expand the use of the swing system in its new manufacture movements engraved “Deutsche Uhrenwerke NOMOS Glashütte”, or “DUW” for short. This designation stands for the fact that NOMOS produces nearly every component part, from its own escape wheel to its own pallet lever to its own gear wheels and even a heat-blued balance spring that is made for NOMOS in Germany.

The Metro is this year’s most exciting NOMOS novelty because the stylish watch houses the new in-house DUW 4401 with the NOMOS swing system. Last year’s popular Ahoi dive watch adds a dark blue variation, the Ahoi Atlantik with or without date. The Tetra unisex collection adds four “Berlin Mix” colours to appeal to men and women. Finally, we get a hands-on look at the new Lux and Lambda dress watches in 18-carat gold and fitted with the high-grade manufacture DUW movements with twin barrels that are hand-finished and hand-engraved.

Metro
Metro is this year’s most exciting NOMOS novelty because the stylish watch with patented large date and power reserve indicator is designed by prize-winning Berlin designer Mark Braun. Mark Braun initially collaborated with NOMOS solely for the Metro timepiece; however, the collaboration was so successful that Mark Braun has now joined the NOMOS team as head of the 3D Design Department. The Metro measures 37mm in diameter and houses the entirely new, thin and in-house DUW 4401 with the NOMOS swing system. The 17-jewel manual winding movement is individually numbered on the 3/4 plate and beautifully finished with Glashütte stripes, sunburst ratchet and crown wheels, heat-blued screws and perlage decorated mainplate. Some of the thoughtful movement features include a big balance wheel, hacking seconds and an integrated power reserve that results in a movement just 2.8mm thick (case height 7.65 mm). Under its domed sapphire crystal, the galvanised white dial is highly legible with its silver hands and red hand for the small seconds. The Metro is fitted with a beautiful Horween Shell Cordovan handmade strap with an integrated quick-change system for the wire-style tube lugs. Retail is a respectable $3,780.

NOMOS Glashutte Metro, Metro Mark Braun, NOMOS DUW 4401, NOMOS swing system, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014
Metro by Berlin designer Mark Braun

NOMOS Glashutte Metro, Metro Mark Braun, NOMOS DUW 4401, NOMOS swing system, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014

NOMOS Glashutte Metro, Metro Mark Braun, NOMOS DUW 4401, NOMOS swing system, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014

NOMOS Glashutte Metro, Metro Mark Braun, NOMOS DUW 4401, NOMOS swing system, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014

NOMOS Glashutte Metro, Metro Mark Braun, NOMOS DUW 4401, NOMOS swing system, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014
Individually numbered NOMOS in-house caliber DUW 4401

NOMOS Glashutte Metro, Metro Mark Braun, NOMOS DUW 4401, NOMOS swing system, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014
Deutsche Uhrenwerke NOMOS Glashütte means “German watch movements NOMOS Glashütte”

Exclusive for TimeZone is a look at the new Tangente Gangreserve that houses the in-house DUW 4301 with NOMOS swing system. The new DUW calibers is being introduced in the Metro collection, and slowly introduced in certain models in the Tangente and Tetra collections, with the ultimate goal of housing in-house movements in all NOMOS watches. In the accompanying movement photo, the NOMOS heat-blued balance spring can be seen under the balance wheel:

NOMOS Tangente Gangreserve, NOMOS DUW 4301, NOMOS swing system, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014
Individually numbered NOMOS in-house caliber DUW 4301

NOMOS Tangente Gangreserve, NOMOS DUW 4301, NOMOS swing system, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014

Ahoi Atlantik
The Ahoi Atlantik is the latest NOMOS dive watch. The two-part 40mm stainless steel case frames a dark blue (“Atlantic blue”) lacquer dial. The dial is contrasted by rose gold numerals and minute markers, as well as rose gold hands filled with Super-Luminova. A lacquer red hand indicates the seconds. The Ahoi Atlantik houses the NOMOS Epsilon caliber (without date) or Zeta caliber (with date) and is water-resistant to 20 atm (200 meters). The timepiece is fitted with the same woven textile strap well-known to anyone who has gone swimming in Germany and received a locker key. Retail is $4,060 (without date) or $4,660 (with date).

NOMOS Glashutte Ahoi Atlantik, NOMOS Ahoi, NOMOS Epsilon, NOMOS Glashütte Ahoi, woven textile strap, NOMOS woven strap, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014
Ahoi Atlantik

NOMOS Glashutte Ahoi Atlantik, NOMOS Ahoi, NOMOS Epsilon, NOMOS Glashütte Ahoi, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014

NOMOS Glashutte Ahoi Atlantik, NOMOS Ahoi, NOMOS Epsilon, NOMOS Glashütte Ahoi, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014

NOMOS Glashutte Ahoi Atlantik, NOMOS Ahoi, NOMOS Epsilon, NOMOS Glashütte Ahoi, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014

NOMOS Glashutte Ahoi Atlantik Datum, NOMOS Ahoi, NOMOS Epsilon, NOMOS Glashütte Ahoi Datum, woven textile strap, NOMOS woven strap, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014
Ahoi Atlantik Datum

NOMOS Glashutte Ahoi Atlantik Datum, NOMOS Ahoi, NOMOS Epsilon, NOMOS Glashütte Ahoi Datum, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014

NOMOS Glashutte Ahoi Atlantik Datum, NOMOS Ahoi, NOMOS Epsilon, NOMOS Glashütte Ahoi Datum, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014

NOMOS Glashutte Ahoi Atlantik, NOMOS Ahoi, NOMOS Epsilon, NOMOS Glashütte Ahoi, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014

NOMOS Glashutte Ahoi Atlantik, NOMOS Ahoi, NOMOS Epsilon, NOMOS Glashütte Ahoi, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014

Tetra – Berlin Mix
The Tetra Berlin Mix is inspired by the colours of the German capital and fitted with grey suede straps. The square stainless steel case measures 29.5mm x 29.55mm x 6.3mm and is fitted with a square sapphire crystal and gold-plated hands. The four new colours are: Kleene (turquoise), Clärchen (green), Goldelse (rose gold) and Nachtijall (midnight blue). The Kleene model features a dial with a power reserve indication and is fitted with the new DUW 4301 manual-wind movement with the newly developed NOMOS swing system. The Tetra Kleene retails for $2,920, the Goldelse is $2,390, the Clärchen is $2,320 and Nachtijall is $2,320.

NOMOS Glashutte Tetra Berlin Mix, NOMOS Alpha, NOMOS DUW 4301, NOMOS swing system, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014
Tetra Berlin Mix

NOMOS Glashutte Tetra Berlin, NOMOS Tetra Kleene, NOMOS DUW 4301, NOMOS swing system, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014
Tetra Kleene with turquoise lacquer dial and new DUW 4301 manual-wind movement

NOMOS Glashutte Tetra Berlin, NOMOS Tetra Clarchen, NOMOS Alpha, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014
Tetra Clärchen with green lacquer dial and Alpha manual-wind movement

NOMOS Glashutte Tetra Berlin, NOMOS Tetra Goldelse, NOMOS Alpha, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014
Tetra Goldelse with rose gold dial and Alpha manual-wind movement

NOMOS Glashutte Tetra Berlin, NOMOS Tetra Nachtijall, NOMOS Alpha, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014
Tetra Nachtijall with midnight blue dial and Alpha manual-wind movement

NOMOS Glashutte Tetra Berlin, NOMOS Tetra Nachtijall, NOMOS Alpha, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014

NOMOS Glashutte Tetra Berlin, NOMOS Tetra Nachtijall, NOMOS Alpha, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014

Gold Dress Watch Collection
Lux is a dress watch with an 18-carat white gold tonneau case that measures size 40.5 mm by 36 mm x 8.95 mm. The dial is available in either galvanised white or galvanised white with light blue. The manufacture DUW 2002 caliber is a 23-jewel manual wind movement with twin mainspring barrels that result in an 84-hour power reserve. The movement is beautifully finished with angled and bevelled edges, five gold chatons, a swan neck fine adjustment, hand-engraved balance cock that reads “Mit Liebe in Glashütte gefertigt” (or lovingly produced in Glashütte) and a rhodium-plated 3/4 plate with sunbeam finish. Finally, the Lux is fitted with a Horween Shell Cordovan handmade strap with 18-carat white gold tang buckle. Retail is $21,500.

Lambda is a round dress watch with an 18-carat white or rose gold 42 mm case and either a white or granulated silver dial with power reserve indicator. The manufacture DUW 1001 caliber is a 29-jewel manual wind movement with twin mainspring barrels that result in an 84-hour power reserve. The movement is beautifully finished with angled and bevelled edges, gold chatons, a swan neck fine adjustment, hand-engraved balance cock that reads “Mit Liebe in Glashütte gefertigt” (or lovingly produced in Glashütte) and a rhodium-plated 3/4 plate with sunbeam finish. Finally, the Lambda is fitted with a Horween Shell Cordovan handmade strap with 18-carat white or rose gold tang buckle. Retail is $18,500 in rose gold and $20,000 in white gold.

NOMOS Glashutte LUX, NOMOS DUW 2002 NOMOS Glashutte LAMBDA, NOMOS DUW 1001, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014
NOMOS Lux and Lambda watches with 18-carat gold cases

NOMOS Glashutte LUX, NOMOS DUW 2002, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014
Lux with 18K WG tonneau case

NOMOS Glashutte LUX, NOMOS DUW 2002, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014
Lux with 18K WG tonneau case and white & light blue dial

NOMOS Glashutte LUX, NOMOS DUW 2002, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014
Lux with 18K WG tonneau case and white dial

NOMOS Glashutte LUX, NOMOS DUW 2002, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014

NOMOS Glashutte LUX, NOMOS DUW 2002, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014

NOMOS Glashutte LUX, NOMOS DUW 2002, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014
Lux with in-house DUW 2002 manual wind movement

NOMOS Glashutte LUX, NOMOS DUW 2002, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014
Individually numbered DUW 2002 with sunbeam finished 3/4 plate, gold chatons, swan neck regulator & engraved balance cock

NOMOS Glashutte LAMBDA, NOMOS DUW 1001, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014
Lambda with 18K white gold case and white galvanised dial

NOMOS Glashutte LAMBDA, NOMOS DUW 1001, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014
Lambda with 18K rose gold case and silvered dial

NOMOS Glashutte LAMBDA, NOMOS DUW 1001, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014

NOMOS Glashutte LAMBDA, NOMOS DUW 1001, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014

NOMOS Glashutte LAMBDA, NOMOS DUW 1001, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014

NOMOS Glashutte LAMBDA, NOMOS DUW 1001, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014
Lambda with in-house DUW 1001 manual wind movement

NOMOS Glashutte LAMBDA, NOMOS DUW 1001, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014
Individually numbered DUW 1001 with sunbeam finished 3/4 plate, gold chatons, swan neck regulator & engraved balance cock

NOMOS Glashutte LAMBDA, NOMOS DUW 1001, NOMOS Basel, NOMOS Baselworld 2014
Finishing details on the DUW 1001

See also German Watch Forum Live Photos: NOMOS Glashütte at Baselworld 2014
Photos: Paul Boutros

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Basel 2014: Rolex with Live Pictures

William Massena

Basel 2014 will be remembered as the year of the Pepsi bezel for Rolex. After nearly ten years, Rolex was finally successful in applying the red color to its signature bezel. During the firing process of cerachrom, the red color was impossible to maintain. An exceptional achievement on two counts: firstly, red is an extremely difficult colour to obtain and, therefore, an unusual colour for ceramic; secondly, having succeeded in creating a red insert, Rolex then found a way to locally modify the chemical composition of each grain, right to the core of the ceramic, and change the colour of half the insert from red to blue, while ensuring a sharp delineation between the two colors. Please note that the blue/red bezel is incompatible with the steel version. After introducing the GMT 116710BLNR aka the Batman last year in steel, Rolex is keeping the blue and red dial exclusively for the White Gold version, mostly because of a much higher cost of production but most likely also for exclusivity. The 116719BLRO will retail in the US for $38,250

Rolex GMT Pepsi, Rolex Cerachrom Pepsi GMT, Rolex 116719BLRO
Rolex GMT Pepsi, Rolex Cerachrom Pepsi GMT, Rolex 116719BLRO
Rolex GMT Pepsi, Rolex Cerachrom Pepsi GMT, Rolex 116719BLRO
Rolex GMT Pepsi, Rolex Cerachrom Pepsi GMT, Rolex 116719BLRO
Rolex GMT Pepsi, Rolex Cerachrom Pepsi GMT, Rolex 116719BLRO
Rolex GMT Pepsi, Rolex Cerachrom Pepsi GMT, Rolex 116719BLRO
Rolex GMT Pepsi, Rolex Cerachrom Pepsi GMT, Rolex 116719BLRO
Rolex GMT Pepsi, Rolex Cerachrom Pepsi GMT, Rolex 116719BLRO
Rolex GMT Pepsi, Rolex Cerachrom Pepsi GMT, Rolex 116719BLRO
Rolex GMT Pepsi, Rolex Cerachrom Pepsi GMT, Rolex 116719BLRO

The rebirth of the Sea Dweller 4000 has been somewhat of a surprise for many of us. The new Sea dweller has nothing revolutionary and is more an improvement of the last Sea Dweller the ref 16660 than the Deep Sea.

Cerachrom bezel insert; Chromalight display with long-lasting luminescence; paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring; Oysterlock safety clasp; and the Rolex Glidelock extension system. The watch is slightly beefier. The new reference is 116600. $10,400

Rolex Sea-Dweller 4000, Sea-Dweller, Rolex 116600
Rolex Sea-Dweller 4000, Sea-Dweller, Rolex 116600
Rolex Sea-Dweller 4000, Sea-Dweller, Rolex 116600
Rolex Sea-Dweller 4000, Sea-Dweller, Rolex 116600
Rolex Sea-Dweller 4000, Sea-Dweller, Rolex 116600
Rolex Sea-Dweller 4000, Sea-Dweller, Rolex 116600

Rolex is presenting three new versions of the Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller, its most recent and most innovative model boasting 14 patents, which was launched in 2012. The new versions in 18 ct yellow, white and Everose gold in a 42 mm case expand the existing collection by introducing new exclusive dials combined with new combinations of bracelets and leather straps. YG strap $38,150, WG/strap $39,550, Everose/bracelet $48,850.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller, Everose Sky-Dweller, Yellow Gold Sky-Dweller, White Gold Sky-Dweller
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller, Everose Sky-Dweller, Yellow Gold Sky-Dweller, White Gold Sky-Dweller
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller, Everose Sky-Dweller, Yellow Gold Sky-Dweller, White Gold Sky-Dweller
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller, Everose Sky-Dweller, Yellow Gold Sky-Dweller, White Gold Sky-Dweller
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller, Everose Sky-Dweller, Yellow Gold Sky-Dweller, White Gold Sky-Dweller
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller, Everose Sky-Dweller, Yellow Gold Sky-Dweller, White Gold Sky-Dweller
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller, Everose Sky-Dweller, Yellow Gold Sky-Dweller, White Gold Sky-Dweller
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller, Everose Sky-Dweller, Yellow Gold Sky-Dweller, White Gold Sky-Dweller
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller, Everose Sky-Dweller, Yellow Gold Sky-Dweller, White Gold Sky-Dweller
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller, Everose Sky-Dweller, Yellow Gold Sky-Dweller, White Gold Sky-Dweller

Rolex presents a new jewelled version of the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona that combines the nobility of 950 platinum and the radiance of purest-quality diamonds. The dial is entirely paved with diamonds, apart from the ice blue chronograph counters. Rolex reserves this rare and exclusive colour for platinum models. The resplendent bezel is set with 36 baguette-cut diamonds. $155,250

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, Rolex Platinum Diamond Daytona, Platinum Daytona
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, Rolex Platinum Diamond Daytona, Platinum Daytona
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, Rolex Platinum Diamond Daytona, Platinum Daytona
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, Rolex Platinum Diamond Daytona, Platinum Daytona
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, Rolex Platinum Diamond Daytona, Platinum Daytona
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, Rolex Platinum Diamond Daytona, Platinum Daytona

Rolex is introducing new gem-set versions of the Oyster Perpetual Datejust Pearlmaster 34 in 18 ct yellow, white and Everose gold. Pearlmaster 34mm is $65,000 without gem set bracelet and $93,900 with gem set bracelet.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust Pearlmaster 34, Pearlmaster 34
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust Pearlmaster 34, Pearlmaster 34

Rolex is presenting a new version of the Oyster Perpetual Milgauss with unique and symbolic aesthetics. Its green sapphire crystal marked a first in watchmaking when it was introduced on the Milgauss in 2007. Now this crystal is combined with an electric blue dial, an allusion to the emblematic lightning-bolt-shaped seconds hand and the watch’s technical purpose as a paramagnetic timepiece designed for engineers and scientists in the 1950s, a golden age of scientific research. Seen through the green sapphire crystal, the Z blue dial takes on a powerfully attractive magnetic hue. $8,200.

Oyster Perpetual Milgauss, Rolex Milgauss Z Blue Dial, Milgauss Z Blue Dial
Oyster Perpetual Milgauss, Rolex Milgauss Z Blue Dial, Milieuss Blue Dial
Oyster Perpetual Milgauss, Rolex Milgauss Z Blue Dial, Milgauss Blue Dial
Oyster Perpetual Milgauss, Rolex Milgauss Z Blue Dial, Milgauss Blue Dial
Oyster Perpetual Milgauss, Rolex Milgauss Z Blue Dial, Milgauss Blue Dial
Oyster Perpetual Milgauss, Rolex Milgauss Z Blue Dial, Milgauss Blue Dial
Oyster Perpetual Milgauss, Rolex Milgauss Z Blue Dial, Milgauss Blue Dial

The new Cellini collection celebrates the most fascinating and exalting facets of watchmaking tradition. Here, elegance and nobility are absolute. The cases are available exclusively in 18 ct white or Everose gold cast by Rolex in its own foundry.

Their round shape and classic 39 mm diameter are marks of tradition, while the refined lugs, the polished finish and the double bezel one domed and the second delicately fluted add a touch of distinction. An emblematic Rolex feature, this fluting is also present on the case back, serving to screw it down. The case back is domed as in bygone eras. The flared shape of the screw-down crown highlights the refined aesthetics of the Cellini. The dials also bear witness to know- how and tradition. They are either lacquered or embellished with a black or a silver-plated classic “rayon flammé de la gloire” guilloche motif and adorned with gold applique hour markers. The layout of the dials is determined by the watches’ different functions, dividing the collection into three families. The Cellini Time models are the quintessential expression of a watchmaking classic, the guardian of hours, minutes and seconds. The Cellini Date models add a date function via a hand on a small sub-dial, blending practicality and elegance.
Finally, the Cellini Dual Time models indicate the time in two time zones simultaneously and feature an elegant sun and moon day/night indicator in an aperture on the sub-dial for the second time zone.

All the new Cellini models feature a high-precision self-winding mechanical movement, certified as a chronometer and entirely manufactured by Rolex. No date is $15,200, date is $17,800 and dual timezone is $19,400.

Rolex Cellini no-date, Rolex Cellini White Gold no-date
Rolex Cellini date, Rolex Cellini Everose date
Rolex Cellini date, Rolex Cellini White Gold date
Rolex Cellini dual time, Rolex Cellini White Gold dual time
Rolex Cellini dual time, Rolex Cellini Everose dual time

William Massena

See also Rolex Forum – Basel 2014: All the new Rolex models with Live pictures & US retail prices
All pictures are Paul Boutros

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Live Photos: Omega at Baselworld 2014

Jessica

The Omega highlights from Baselworld 2014 include the Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial, the Speedmaster Apollo 11 45th Anniversary, the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon “Lunar Dust”, the Speedmaster Mark II, a sneak peek at the Seamaster Professional Chronograph GMT and the evolutionary Master Co-Axial calibres that resist magnetic fields greater than 15,000 gauss. For those who prefer branded accessories, Omega will also offer NATO straps in its boutiques.

Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial
As we anticipated a few weeks ago, the original SM300 2913 from 1957 is making a comeback. Although inspired by the original, the new Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial is updated and entirely state-of-the-art.

OMEGA Watches Baselworld 2014, Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial, Seamaster 300, Master Co-Axial 8400

The sandblasted, no-date sandwich dial looks substantially similar to the original SM300 dial, except for the seconds hand and the updated text. The dial is available in blue or black with a matching bezel. Looking at the watch straight on, the hue of the dial matches the bezel; however, since the dial is sandblasted and the bezel ring is ceramic, the dial surface results in colour variations under different light and angle. The result is a lively dial, since at times the overall colour looks uniform, and at others the dial takes on the characteristics of an aged dial.

The transferred dial elements are produced using a combination of gold and palladium. The white gold colour is enhanced by a patented process that involves a high temperature treatment; the curving contour of the indexes is created by the enamel under-layer. The 18K white gold central hour, minute and seconds hands are coated with “vintage” Super-LumiNova. The hour and seconds hands emit a blue light, as do the recessed hour markers. The minute hand is also coated with “vintage” Super-LumiNova, but emits a green light.

For the stainless steel and titanium models, the unidirectional rotating bezel has a polished black or blue ceramic bezel ring insert with a Liquidmetal diving scale. The process of making the ceramic insert is identical to the Planet Ocean, wherein the numbers and scaling are laser carved into the ceramic ring, then filled with Liquidmetal for a perfectly smooth bezel that is resistant to scratching and corrosion. For the 18K Sedna gold model, the diving scale is filled with Ceragold; and for the limited edition platinum model, the diving scale is filled with platinum. The dot on the bezel is coated with a “vintage” Super-LumiNova that emits a green light.

The symmetrical case measures 41mm x 14.65mm and is available in several variations, including stainless steel, grade 5 titanium, 18K Sedna gold and 950 platinum (LE of 357). The two-tone models are either a combination of grade 5 titanium and 18K Sedna gold, or stainless steel and 18K Sedna gold.

With the Seamaster 300, Omega introduces two important calibres in its evolutionary family of anti-magnetic mechanical movements. The Master Co-Axial calibre 8400/8401 has the same accuracy, precision, reliability and 60-hour power reserve as its Co-Axial predecessors, but adds Omega’s anti-magnetic technology to resist magnetic fields greater than 15,000 gauss (1.5 tesla). The staffs and pivots in these upgraded calibres are made of a non-ferrous material Omega calls, “Nivagauss”; the steel plates found in the Co-Axial movement have been replaced with non-magnetic plates; and the spring of the shock absorber has been crafted from an anamorphous material.

When asked why an anti-magnetic movement is important, Omega President Stephen Urquhart provides a pragmatic response,

    Our customer service-professionals have reported that a large percentage of the watches sent in for servicing need to be demagnetised. Previous efforts to combat magnetism relied on protective inner cases, but these meant it was impractical to try to offer a date window and, of course, there was no transparent case back. By making a movement that is itself anti-magnetic, we’ve been able to create watches resistant to any fields they’re likely to be exposed to. And, of course, date windows and transparent case backs are no problem.

The caseback of each Seamaster 300 is engraved with “Si14”, “ANTI-MAGNETIC > 15’000 GAUSS” and, depending on what alloy the diving scale is made of, “Liquidmetal”, “Omega Ceragold” or “Platinum”. The case back is fitted with a domed, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal for an unobstructed view of the movement. The Master Co-Axial calibre 8400 is housed in the two-tone, stainless steel and titanium models, and the specially finished Master Co-Axial calibre 8401 is housed in the 18K Sedna gold and limited edition 950 platinum models. Curiously, however, and somewhat confusing to me is that the new anti-magnetic movements continue to be stamped “Co-Axial” as opposed to “Master Co-Axial”.

The Seamaster 300 is fitted with a patented rack-and-pusher fine adjustment clasp that is adjustable to six different positions, making versatile to wear with anything from a pair of jeans a diving suit. The bracelet is adjusted by releasing the clasp, pressing the “push” button and sliding the inner clasp to the desired fit.

Available in November 2014, pricing for the COSC-certified Seamaster 300 starts at $6,200 in stainless steel.

Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial, Seamaster 300 black dial, Master Co-Axial 8400, OMEGA Baselworld 2014
Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial with sandblasted black dial & stainless steel case

Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial, Seamaster 300 black dial, Master Co-Axial 8400, OMEGA Baselworld 2014

Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial, Seamaster 300 black dial, Master Co-Axial 8400, OMEGA Baselworld 2014

Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial, Seamaster 300 black dial, Master Co-Axial 8400, OMEGA Baselworld 2014

Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial black dial, Seamaster 300, Master Co-Axial 8400, OMEGA Baselworld 2014
Master Co-Axial Calibre 8400 housed in the stainless steel, titanium and two-tone models

Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial, Seamaster 300 blue, Master Co-Axial 8400, OMEGA Baselworld 2014
Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial with sandblasted blue dial & stainless steel case

Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial, Seamaster 300 blue, Master Co-Axial 8400, OMEGA Baselworld 2014

Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial, Seamaster 300 blue, sandwich blue, Master Co-Axial 8400, OMEGA Baselworld 2014
Detail of the sandblasted blue sandwich dial

Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial, Seamaster 300 Sedna gold, Master Co-Axial 8401, OMEGA Baselworld 2014
Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial in 18K Sedna Gold

Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial, Seamaster 300 Sedna gold, Master Co-Axial 8401, OMEGA Baselworld 2014
Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial in 18K Sedna Gold

Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 45th Anniversary Limited Edition
The new Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 45th Anniversary commemorates the first lunar landing in July 1969, as well as the recent discovery that the moon is filled with large deposits of titanium ore. To commemorate this recent discovery, Omega crafted the 42mm case from brushed grade 2 titanium that takes on a patina over time. The bezel is made from 18K Sedna gold and has a matte black ceramic bezel ring with a tachymeter scale.

The gray-brown PVD dial has 30-minute and 12-hour recorders and a small seconds subdial. The unique dial is made by a laser that removes the material surrounding the name, subdial numerals and hour markers. The indexes and hour, minute, seconds and subdial hands are crafted from 18K red gold and the central chronograph hand is red gold-plated.

Super-LumiNova coating the hour, minute and chronograph seconds hands, as well as the hour markers and two dots at 12 o’clock, emits a green light. The dial is fitted with a sapphire crystal coated with anti-reflective treatment on both sides.

The screw-in caseback is embossed with the Seahorse emblem and the outer circle is engraved in black with “FLIGHT QUALIFIED BY NASA FOR ALL MANNED SPACE MISSIONS”, “THE FIRST WATCH WORN ON THE MOON” and “APOLLO 11, 45TH ANNIVERSARY, LIMITED EDITION, 0000/1969”. The solid case back protects the calibre 1861, a manual-winding chronograph movement and is water resistant to 5 bar (50 metres / 167 feet). The timepiece is fitted with a brown NATO strap. Limited to 1,969 pieces, the Apollo 11 44th Anniversary LE retails for $7,700.

Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 45th Anniversary Limited Edition, Speedmaster Apollo 11 45th Anniversary, Apollo 11 45th Anniversary, calibre 1861, OMEGA Baselworld 2014
Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 45th Anniversary LE

Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 45th Anniversary Limited Edition, Speedmaster Apollo 11 45th Anniversary, Apollo 11 45th Anniversary, OMEGA Baselworld 2014

Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 45th Anniversary Limited Edition, Speedmaster Apollo 11 45th Anniversary, Apollo 11 45th Anniversary, OMEGA Baselworld 2014

Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 45th Anniversary Limited Edition, Speedmaster Apollo 11 45th Anniversary, Apollo 11 45th Anniversary, OMEGA Baselworld 2014
The grey grade 2 titanium case will take on a patina over time

Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 45th Anniversary Limited Edition, Speedmaster Apollo 11 45th Anniversary, Apollo 11 45th Anniversary, calibre 1861, OMEGA Baselworld 2014
The 18K Sedna gold bezel has a black ceramic bezel with tachymetre scale

Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Lunar Dust
The Dark Side of the Moon shows its lighter side with a new variant called, “Lunar Dust”. Lunar Dust describes the sleek ceramic case crafted from a solid block of white ceramic treated in a chemical bath to achieve its unique colour. The entire case is ceramic, including the pushers and crown. The platinum dial is fitted with applied indexes and hands in the same “lunar dust” hue. The central chronograph hand is tipped in red. The two dots at 12 o’clock are treated with Super-LumiNova, as well as the hour, minute and chronograph hands.

The ceramic caseback is engraved with “DARK SIDE OF THE MOON” and the sapphire crystal display back reveals the Co-Axial calibre 9300, a 54-jewel self-winding column-wheel chronograph movement with a silicon balance spring. The watch is fitted with a dark grey crocodile strap with platinum-coloured stitching.

The DSOTM Lunar Dust retails for $12,000.

Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Lunar Dust, Omega Light Side of the Moon, Omega Lunar Dust, OMEGA Baselworld 2014
Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Lunar Dust

Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Lunar Dust, Omega Lunar Dust Omega, Omega Light Side of the Moon, Omega Lunar Dust, OMEGA Baselworld 2014

Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Lunar Dust, Omega Lunar Dust, Omega Light Side of the Moon, Omega Lunar Dust, OMEGA Baselworld 2014
Detail of the platinum dial, discreetly marked “PT950”

Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Lunar Dust, Omega Lunar Dust, Omega Light Side of the Moon, Omega Lunar Dust, OMEGA Baselworld 2014
Brushed and polished ceramic case, polished ceramic crown and polished ceramic pushers

Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Lunar Dust, Omega Lunar Dust, Co-Axial calibre 9300, Omega Light Side of the Moon, Omega Lunar Dust, OMEGA Baselworld 2014
Co-Axial calibre 9300 automatic column-wheel chronograph movement with silicon balance spring

Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Lunar Dust, Omega Lunar Dust, Omega Light Side of the Moon, Omega Lunar Dust, OMEGA Baselworld 2014

Speedmaster Mark II
Last month, Omega pre-announced the re-edition of the Speedmaster Mark XII that is updated with an automatic movement and a new tachymetric scale. The transparent tachymetric scale on the sapphire crystal is illuminated from beneath by an aluminium ring filled with Super-LumiNova. Our forum regular Ruckdee took some amazing photos of his original Mark II together with the re-edition, here.

Omega Speedmaster II, OMEGA Baselworld 2014
Speedmaster Mark II

Omega Speedmaster II, OMEGA Baselworld 2014
The transparent tachymetric scale is illuminated from beneath by an aluminium ring filled with Super-LumiNova

Omega Speedmaster II, OMEGA Baselworld 2014

Omega Speedmaster II, OMEGA Baselworld 2014
Co-Axial caliber 3330 is an automatic column-wheel chronograph movement with a silicon balance spring

Especially for TimeZone, Omega unveils the Speedmaster Mark II Rio that commemorates the Summer Olympics in 2016. This Olympic edition timepiece has silver, bronze and gold rings that frame the subdials. A silver ring frames the small seconds at 9 o’clock, a bronze ring frames the 12-hour register at 6 o’clock and a gold ring frames the 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock.

Both variations of the Mark XII retail for $6,250.

Omega Speedmaster II Rio, OMEGA Baselworld 2014
Speedmaster Mark II Rio

Omega Speedmaster II Rio, OMEGA Baselworld 2014

Omega Speedmaster II Rio, OMEGA Baselworld 2014
Silver, bronze and gold subdial rings are a nod to the Olympic gold medals

Seamaster Professional Chronograph GMT
Exclusive for TimeZone is a sneak peek at an upcoming Seamaster Professional Chronograph GMT.

Seamaster Professional Chronograph GMT, OMEGA Baselworld 2014

Seamaster Professional Chronograph GMT, OMEGA Baselworld 2014

Seamaster Professional Chronograph GMT, OMEGA Baselworld 2014

Seamaster Professional Chronograph GMT, OMEGA Baselworld 2014

Master Co-Axial
The majority of watch service issues is related to magnetism. In response, the new Master Co-Axial anti-magnetic movements are being introduced into all the Omega collections, beginning with the Seamaster and De Ville collections. This new family of movements includes Master Co-Axial calibres 8400/8401, 8500, 8511 and 8520 – all of which are distinguished from their Co-Axial predecessors by their ability to resist magnetic fields greater than 15,000 gauss. To achieve this level of anti-magnetism, the calibres feature a silicon balance spring; the staffs and pivots are made of a non-ferrous material Omega calls, “Nivagauss”; the steel plates in the Co-Axial escapement have now all been been replaced with non-magnetic plates; and the spring of the shock absorber has been crafted from an amorphous material.

Baselworld 2014 Omega Master Co-Axial, Basel Omega Watches, Omega Seamaster Golf Master Co-Axial, OMEGA Baselworld 2014
Seamaster Aqua Terra Terra “Golf” Master Co-Axial

Baselworld 2014 Omega Master Co-Axial, Basel Omega Watches, Omega Seamaster Golf Master Co-Axial, OMEGA Baselworld 2014
Master Co-Axial Calibre 8500 resists magnetic fields greater than 15,000 gauss (1.5 tesla)

Omega NATO straps
Finally, for the those who prefer a branded strap, Omega will offer NATO straps in its boutiques. The straps retail for CHF 200 in leather and CHF 150 in fabric.

Basel Omega Watches, Omega NATO strap, OMEGA Baselworld 2014
A new Omega NATO strap that retails for CHF 150

Basel Omega Watches, Omega NATO strap, OMEGA Baselworld 2014

See also Omega Forum – Live Photos: Omega at Baselworld 2014
Photos: Paul Boutros

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Basel 2014: A Look at the Seiko Novelties

Jessica

Seiko is fulfilling its promise to the U.S. for higher allocations and more variety of high-grade Seiko watches in a very big way.

For 2014, Seiko announces the global launch of the new mechanical Caliber 9S86, the first ever hi-beat GMT that will only ever be available in a Grand Seiko. Grand Seiko also debuts its second Historical Collection that followed last year’s popular 44GS Tribute. This year, Grand Seiko pays tribute to its 1964 “Self-dater”, which was the first Grand Seiko to incorporate a date window.

Next, the Seiko Astron GPS adds a GPS Solar Chronograph with the second-generation GPS Solar Caliber 8X82. The caliber is smaller, includes a chronograph function and is easier to operate. Most importantly, Seiko responded to consumer demand for a smaller Astron and reduced the case diameter by two-millimeters to 45mm, and also made the case thinner by three-millimeters to 13mm.

Finally, for the first time, Seiko is making its high-grade PROSPEX professional diving and sports watches available to the United States.

Shinji Hattori, Seiko Hattori, Baselworld 2014 Seiko
Mr. Shinji Hattori, President & CEO of Seiko Watch Corporation

Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT
The Caliber 9S86 is Seiko’s first-ever Hi-Beat GMT and is created on the platform of the caliber 9S85 that launched in 2009. It has all the existing features of the existing caliber, with the addition of a 24-hour GMT hand with easy hour adjustment. The high-precision, 37-jewel caliber has an accuracy of +5/-3 seconds per day and a 55-hour power reserve. The GMT hand is adjustable independently as the time of day hands continue to mark time.

Seiko designed several new models to kick off the new caliber. First, is the Hi-Beat 36,000 GMT Limited Edition (SBGJ005) with a 40mm stainless steel case based on last year’s highly popular 44GS Automatic. The deep green dial with a radial pattern is beautiful and inspired by Mt. Iwate, the famous mountain outside the Shizuku-ishi Watch Studio. The titanium oscillating weight is treated with an anodic oxidation that results in a gold tone. The timepiece is a limited edition of 600 pieces and retails for $7,250.

Hi-Beat 36,000 GMT Limited Edition, Grand Seiko SBGJ005, Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 GMT Limited Edition
Hi-Beat 36,000 GMT Limited Edition, ref SBGJ005 (LE of 600)

Hi-Beat 36,000 GMT Limited Edition, Grand Seiko SBGJ005, Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 GMT Limited Edition

Hi-Beat 36,000 GMT Limited Edition, Grand Seiko SBGJ005, Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 GMT Limited Edition

Hi-Beat 36,000 GMT Limited Edition, Grand Seiko SBGJ005, Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 GMT Limited Edition
The deep green dial features a beautiful radial pattern inspired by Mount Iwate

Hi-Beat 36,000 GMT Limited Edition, Grand Seiko SBGJ005, Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 GMT Limited Edition
Titanium oscillating weight is treated with an anodic oxidation that results in a golden tone

Two regular production Hi-Beat 36,000 GMT are also being launched with the identical 40mm stainless steel 44GS Automatic case, and available with either a white (SBGJ001) or black (SBGJ003) dial. Both the white and black Hi-Beat GMT models retail for $7,000.

The textured finishing on the white dial is subtle, elegant and absolutely gorgeous. When I first saw the model in the display booth, I assumed it was a snowflake dial. Then when I handled it, it has less texture and depth than the snowflake dial and is more of a cross between a snowflake and sunray pattern since the striations are subtly uneven. Legibility is optimal and the heat blued GMT hand is precisely the right length to the fixed GMT chapter ring.

Hi-Beat 36,000 GMT, Grand Seiko SBGJ001, Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 GMT
Hi-Beat 36000 GMT with white textured dial and heat blued GMT hand, ref SBGJ001

Hi-Beat 36,000 GMT, Grand Seiko SBGJ001, Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 GMT

Hi-Beat 36,000 GMT, Grand Seiko SBGJ003, Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 GMT
Hi-Beat 36000 GMT with black dial and red GMT hand, ref SBGJ003

Hi-Beat 36,000 GMT, Grand Seiko SBGJ003, Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 GMT

Grand Seiko Historical Collection
Five new Grand Seikos join the Historical Collection and pay tribute to the 1964 Grand Seiko “Self-Dater”, which introduced a date window to the Grand Seiko and a water-resistance to 5 bar. Three of these models are limited editions fitted with Calibre 9R15 Spring Drive movements with an accuracy of +/- 0.5 seconds per day, with one in a 39.9mm platinum case (SBGA107) and two in 39.9mm stainless steel with silver (SBGA103) or blue dial (SBGA105). The approximate recommended retail prices for these limited edition models are $34,500/Euro 31,900 for the platinum (SBGA107) and $6,500/Euro 6,050 for the stainless steel (SBGA103, SBGA105).

Grand Seiko Historical Collection Self-Dater
GS Historical Collection Self-Dater Spring Drive with platinum case (LE of 50)

Grand Seiko Historical Collection Self-Dater platinum
The gorgeous dial is a champagne metallic

Grand Seiko Historical Collection Self-Dater
30-jewel, Calibre 9R15 Spring Drive movement with 72-hour power reserve

Grand Seiko SBGA105, Grand Seiko SBGA105
GS Historical Collection Self-Dater Spring Drive with stainless steel case (SBGA105 and SBGA103)

Grand Seiko SBGA105
GS Historical Collection Self-Dater Spring Drive with deep blue dial and stainless steel case (SBGA105)

Exclusive for TimeZone is a sneak peek at a Spring Drive with a unique “GS” logo dial:

Timezone Grand Seiko, Baselworld 2014 Grand Seiko

Astron GPS Solar Chronograph
The new Astron GPS Solar Caliber 8X82 features a chronograph function, is smaller and easier to operate. The new case size is 30% smaller than the first generation Astron GPS and measures 44.6mm x 13.3mm. To achieve these smaller case dimensions, Seiko refined its energy-saving technology which allows for a smaller antenna. The movement is GPS controlled time and time zone adjustments. The 6-hour chronograph can measure and display time in 1/5 second (0.2 second) increments. The “one touch” operation remains the same in that pressing the calibration button for six seconds activates the Astron’s GPS function. However, the secondary functions such as manual time zone setting are now easier and more intuitive due to the crown.

The SSE001 Limited Edition is the flagship of the launch and features a titanium case with super-hard coating, white dial, sapphire crystal with super-clear coating, a faceted ceramic bezel, and a new laser-cut crown that makes it easier operate. The bracelet is a combination of titanium outer links and ceramic inner links, and the timepiece is also packaged with a black crocodile strap. This model is limited to 7,000 pieces and individually numbered on the case back.

Astron GPS Solar Chronograph, Seiko Astron GPS Solar Chronograph SSE001 Limited Edition
Astron GPS Solar Chronograph SSE001 LE

Astron GPS Solar Chronograph, Seiko Astron GPS Solar Chronograph SSE001 Limited Edition

There are seven new GPS Solar Chronograph models that join the Astron collection. Three models feature titanium cases with super-hard coating and ceramic bezel, and are fitted with titanium bracelets (SSE005, SSE007 & SSE009); two models feature stainless steel cases with super-hard coating with ceramic bezel, and are fitted with stainless steel bracelets (SSE011 & SSE013); and two models feature stainless steel cases with super-hard coating with ceramic bezel, and are fitted with silicon straps (SSE015 & SSE017).

Astron GPS Solar Chronograph, Seiko Astron GPS SSE005, Basel 2014 Seiko
Astron GPS Solar Chronograph with blue dial, Ti case & Ti bracelet, ref SSE005

Astron GPS Solar Chronograph, Seiko Astron GPS Solar Chronograph SSE005, Basel 2014 Seiko

Astron GPS Solar Chronograph, Basel 2014 Seiko

Astron GPS Solar Chronograph, Basel 2014 Seiko

Astron GPS Solar Chronograph, Basel 2014 Seiko, Seiko Astron GPS SSE013
Astron GPS Solar Chronograph with stainless steel case and bracelet, ref SSE013

Astron GPS Solar Chronograph, Seiko Astron GPS Solar Chronograph, Basel 2014 Seiko

Astron GPS Solar Chronograph, Seiko Astron GPS Solar Chronograph, Seiko Astron GPS SSE015, Seiko Astron GPS SE005
(L-R) Astron GPS Solar Chronograph refs. SSE015 & SSE005

Exclusive for TimeZone is a sneak peek at an Astron GPS Solar Chronograph “Resort”:

Astron GPS Solar Chronograph, Seiko Astron GPS Solar Chronograph Resort

PROSPEX
The PROSPEX model name derives from “professional specification”, and this high-grade collection of professional diving and sports watches has developed such a strong US collectors base that Seiko has finally decided to bring down the distribution wall. Last year, a very small allocation of a PROSPEX Marinemaster limited edition (affectionally known as the “Golden Tuna”) was authorized for sale in the US and quickly sold out. This year, the Seiko PROSPEX will be distributed outside of the Japanese market and made available in the United States.

The new PROSPEX Kinetic GMT Diver uses the same double case system as the legendary 1975 model, with a Kinetic caliber that is precise to 1 second per day. The Kinetic GMT Diver measures 47.55mm in diameter and retails for Euro 660. The new PROSPEX Aviation Solar Chronograph is a modern interpretation of the 1972 classic Seiko Flight Computer that introduced the trigonometric slide rule that allows pilots to make complex calculations in flight. The Aviation Solar Chronograph measures 46.1mm in diameter and retails for Euro 610. The new PROSPEX Automatic 200M Diver houses the 24-jewel Caliber 4R36 automatic movement with hand winding capability. For the initial US launch, two 42.3mm stainless steel PROSPEX “Monster” models with black hard coating are available in black and blue (SRP581K1) and black and gold (SRP583K1), as well as two other 200M divers.

PROSPEX
PROSPEX Kinetic GMT Diver with double case system & Caliber 5M85, ref SUN019

PROSPEX

PROSPEX

PROSPEX

PROSPEX

PROSPEX
PROSPEX Kinetic GMT Diver with double case system & Caliber 5M85, ref SUN023

PROSPEX

PROSPEX

PROSPEX
PROSPEX Aviation Solar Chronograph collection with Caliber V175

PROSPEX
PROSPEX Automatic 200M Diver’s collection with Caliber 4R36

See also Seiko Forum Basel 2014: A Conversation with Shinji Hattori, President & CEO of Seiko
See also Seiko Forum Basel 2014: A Look at the Seiko Novelties
Photos: Paul Boutros

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Live Basel Report: Bulgari at Baselworld 2014

JESSICA

An Italian jeweller by origin, Bulgari is applying the same type of creativity and exacting attention to detail to its watch manufacturing. Now fully integrated, Bulgari employs over 350 watchmakers to produce its own movements, cases, bracelets and dials. Beginning with its distinctive eight-sided Octo collection, Bulgari introduces two manufacture ultra-thin calibres in the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon and the Octa Finissimo.

Octo Finissimo Tourbillon
At a remarkable height of just 1.95 mm, the manufacture Finissimo Tourbillon calibre is an ultra-thin, 11-jewel hand wound movement with flying Tourbillon that holds the distinction of being the thinnest movement with a tourbillon ever made. Despite its extreme thinness, the efficient design results in a 55-hour power reserve. The platinum case measures 40 mm x 5 mm.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, thinnest tourbillon ever made
Octo Finissimo Tourbillon is the world’s thinnest movement with a tourbillon

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, thinnest tourbillon ever made

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, thinnest tourbillon ever made

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, thinnest tourbillon ever made
The Octo Finissimo Tourbillon calibre is only 1.95 mm thick, and the total case height is only 5 mm

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, thinnest tourbillon ever made
The Tourbillon carriage is mounted on a peripherally-driven ultra-thin ball-bearing mechanism

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, thinnest tourbillon ever made
Detail of the one-minute flying Tourbillon and the black lacquer dial

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, thinnest tourbillon ever made
Detail of the manufacture Finissimo Tourbillon calibre

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, thinnest tourbillon ever made

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, thinnest tourbillon ever made

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, thinnest tourbillon ever made

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, thinnest tourbillon ever made

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, thinnest tourbillon ever made

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, thinnest tourbillon ever made

Octo Finissimo
The Octo Finissimo is an ultra-thin hand wound mechanical timepiece with an offset small seconds. The manufacture Finissimo calibre is a 26-jewel, mechanical hand wound movement that measures only 2.23 mm thick. The total case height of the platinum case measures just 5 mm thick. Unfortunately, the only example of the timepiece available on press day was secured in the display and difficult to photograph. With its 40 mm x 5 mm platinum case, it is both elegant and sophisticated.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo, Bvlgari Octo

Bulgari Octo Finissimo, Bvlgari Octo
The platinum case is a mere 5 mm thick

Bulgari Octo Finissimo, Bvlgari Octo

Bulgari Octo Finissimo, Bvlgari Octo
A glimpse at the beautifully finished manufacture Finissimo calibre

Ladies Lvcea Collection
The Lvcea is a new ladies collection available with either a mechanical (automatic) or quartz movement, and the choice of either a 33mm (automatic) or 28mm (quartz) diameter case made in either stainless steel, two-tone or all 18-carat pink gold. The Lvcea bracelet is inspired by the segmented coils of the haute joaillerie Serpenti bracelet watch. A total of 14 references are available for the launch of the Lvcea collection.

Bulgari Lvcea, Bvlgari Lucea, Bulgari Naomi Watts
Naomi Watts is the brand ambassador who endorses the new Lvcea collection

Bulgari Lvcea, Bvlgari Lucea, Bulgari Naomi Watts
18-carat pink gold Lvcea with guilloché dial

Ladies Haute Joaillerie

Bulgari Octo Finissimo, Bvlgari Octo

Bulgari Octo Finissimo, Bvlgari Octo

Bulgari Octo Finissimo, Bvlgari Octo

Bvlgari Bvlgari Lady
The beautiful new Bvlgari Bvlgari Lady jewellery timepieces measure 33mm in diameter and house mechanical automatic winding movements.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo, Bvlgari Octo
18-carat pink gold case set with 36 diamonds and Aventurine dial

Bulgari Octo Finissimo, Bvlgari Octo
18-carat pink gold case set with 36 diamonds and Heart of ruby stone dial

Berries
Launched last year at Baselworld 2013, the audacious Berries collection adds two new limited edition variations.

The Berries Jumping Hours and Retrograde Minutes is a jumping hours timepiece with retrograde minutes. The 40mm 18-carat white gold case is gem-set with 133 brilliant-cut diamonds and 7 emeralds. The timepiece houses a 26-jewel manufacture Calibre GG 1002 automatic movement with 45-hour power reserve.

The jumping hours are framed by diamonds and gemstones. At the end of every hour, the minutes hand instantly jumps 180° from the left side 60 to the right side 00.

The white mother of pearl marquetery dial is formed by 10 symmetrical segments. The satin strap is fitted with an 18-carat white gold deployment clasp set with 28 diamonds.

Berries Jumping Hours and Retrograde Minutes
Berries Jumping Hours and Retrograde Minutes

The Berries Tourbillon Retrograde Hours is a retrograde hours timepiece. The 40mm 18-carat white gold case is gem-set with 63 brilliant-cut diamonds and 7 rubies. The white mother of pearl marquetery dial is formed by 15 symmetrical segments.

At precisely 6 o’clock, the retrograde hours hand jumps instantly 240° from the right-side 6 to the left-side 6. Meanwhile, the minutes hand rotates clockwise.

The timepiece houses a 56-jewel manufacture Calibre BVL 313 automatic movement with a Tourbillon mounted on a sapphire crystal bridge. The satin strap is fitted with an 18-carat white gold deployment clasp set with 28 diamonds. Production is limited to just 25 pieces.

Berries Tourbillon Retrograde Hours
Berries Tourbillon Retrograde Hours

Il Giardino Marino di Bvlgari (The Marine Garden of Bulgari)
Finally, Il Giardino Marino di Bvlgari continues Bulgari’s nature theme of this ladies collection. The champlevé enamel dial is crafted using a number of mastered techniques. First, the maritime design is carved into a gold base. Then, a master gem-setter sets brilliant cut diamonds into the starfish and coral. Next, a master enameller fills the cavities with moist powdered enamel. Dark blue lacquer, evoking the pure depths of the ocean, provides a delicate background matched by the transparency of beautiful sapphires. The overall effect is of a shoal of fish floating in crystal-clear waters, with sparkling starfish amongst the foliage of precious coral. After each layer is applied, the dial is cleaned and fired in a kiln. A single dial may require up to 25 kiln firings. Finally, after polishing, the tropical enamel design is set onto an ivory lacquer base dial.

The colourful dial is framed by a 37mm 18-carat pink gold case. The timepiece is fitted with a 56-jewel manufacture Calibre GG 9051 automatic movement with a Tourbillon mounted on a sapphire crystal bridge.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo, Bvlgari Octo

See also Live from Basel: Bulgari at Baselworld 2014
Photos: Paul Boutros

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Breguet Clocks and Watches at The Frick Collection

Mark Bohannon

TimeZone recently joined a special tour of Precision and Splendor: Clocks and Watches at The Frick Collection, hosted by Breguet, a major sponsor of the exhibition. Among our hosts were Charlotte Vignon, Associate Curator of Decorative Arts, and Michael Nelson, Breguet U.S. Brand Manager. After just over a year, and at least one extension, the exhibit is drawing to a close.

Precision and Splendor: Clocks and Watches at The Frick Collection, Portico Gallery of The Frick Collection

Installation view, looking west at Precision and Splendor: Clocks and Watches at The Frick Collection, now on view in the Portico Gallery of The Frick Collection, New York; photo: Michael Bodycomb

Henry Clay Frick (1849-1919) was an industrialist, philanthropist, and art collector. He collected one of the greatest privately held art collections in existence. On his death, he left his home on 71st Street just off Fifth Avenue and Central Park in New York and his collection of paintings, sculpture, and decorative arts to the public “for the purpose of establishing and maintaining a gallery of art, [and] of encouraging and developing the study of fine arts and of advancing the general knowledge of kindred subjects.” The Frick Collection contains an amazing collection of works of by masters such as Renoir, Monet, Manet, Goya, El Greco, Turner, and Whistler, as well as French eighteenth-century furniture, Italian Renaissance bronzes, and Limoges enamels.

Winthrop Kellogg Edey (1937-1999), came from a wealthy family and developed a passion for, among other things, horology, Egyptology, and photography. From the age of 12, he collected timepieces, and perhaps most amazingly, kept detailed journals of his acquisitions. Over a period of close to five decades, he acquired, sold, and traded clocks and watches, until he finally held a small, but amazing collection of timepieces from 1500 to 1830. He consulted for, among others, The J. Paul Getty Museum, Los Angeles; and The Time Museum, Rockford, IL. He was the author of two books on French clocks. On his death, he left his collection to the Frick, giving the Collection an exceptionally impressive set of privately owned timepieces.

During our tour, Charlotte discussed the evolution of timepieces from the Renaissance. The oldest clock in the collection dates from 1530 Aix-en-Provence, and was made by Pierre de Fobis.

Precision and Splendor: Clocks and Watches at The Frick Collection, Pierre de Fobis, The Frick Collection

Pierre de Fobis (15061575), Gilt-Brass Table Clock, c. 1530, The Frick Collection, New York, Bequest of Winthrop Kellogg Edey; photo: Michael Bodycomb

Germany, and especially Augsburg, went on to become an important center of clockmaking. This example is from approximately 1580, and is not attributed to a specific maker.

Precision and Splendor: Clocks and Watches at The Frick Collection, Pierre de Fobis, Ausburg Tower Table Clock, The Frick Collection

Augsburg Maker, Gilt-Brass Tower Table Clock, c. 1580, The Frick Collection, New York, Bequest of Winthrop Kellogg Edey; photo: Richard di Liberto

A later example, a true “masterpiece” signed by the master clock maker David Weber and made in approximately 1653, shows the highly decorative style popular in that period. The tower has two tiers and is almost two feet tall. It is topped by a female figure representing the Roman goddess Fortuna.

Precision and Splendor: Clocks and Watches at The Frick Collection, David Weber, Astronomical Table Clock, The Frick Collection

David Weber (active 1623/241704), Gilt-Brass and Silver Table Clock with Astronomical and Calendrical Dials, probably 1653, The Frick Collection, New York, Bequest of Winthrop Kellogg Edey; photo: Michael Bodycomb

The exhibition continues through the development of the watch, made reliable when the balance spring was introduced in 1675. The exhibition includes some wonderful examples of early pocket watches.

Precision and Splendor: Clocks and Watches at The Frick Collection, Henry Arlaud, Pierre Huaud, pendant watch, Winthrop Kellogg Edey, The Frick Collection

Henry Arlaud (16311689), enameling by Pierre Huaud II (1647c. 1698), Gold and Enamel Pendant Watch, c. 1685, The Frick Collection, New York, Bequest of Winthrop Kellogg Edey; photo: Michael Bodycomb

Precision and Splendor: Clocks and Watches at The Frick Collection, Chavannes le Jeune, Pierre Huaud, pendant watch, Winthrop Kelogg Edey, The Frick Collection

Front
Chavannes le Jeune (active c. 16501660), enameling attributed to Pierre Huaud (16121680), Gold and Enamel Pendant Watch, c. 1660, The Frick Collection, New York, Bequest of Winthrop Kellogg Edey; photo: Richard di Liberto

The Edey collection contains three amazing examples of the work of Abraham-Louis Breguet and his son, Antoine-Louis Breguet. One of the most unique pieces is a “decimal clock”, dating to the French Revolution. This piece shows decimal time, which was decreed in 1793 and lasted 18 months, on one side and a standard 12 hour clock on the reverse. Decimal time divided time units into 10ths; a 10 hour day, 10 minutes in an hour, etc.

Precision and Splendor: Clocks and Watches at The Frick Collection, Abraham-Louis Breguet, Breguet Frick Collection, Double-Dial Desk Watch Showing Decimal and Traditional Time, Winthrop Kellog Edey, The Frick Collection

Front
Abraham-Louis Breguet (17471823) and Antoine-Louis Breguet (17761858), Gold and Silver Double-Dial Desk Watch Showing Decimal and Traditional Time, c. 1795 after 1807, The Frick Collection, Bequest of Winthrop Kellogg Edey; photo: Michael Bodycomb

Precision and Splendor: Clocks and Watches at The Frick Collection, Abraham-Louis Breguet, Antoine-Louis Breguet, Breguet Frick Collection, Double-Dial Desk Watch Showing Decimal and Traditional Time, Winthrop Kellogg Edey, The Frick Collection

Back
Abraham-Louis Breguet (17471823) and Antoine-Louis Breguet (17761858), Gold and Silver Double-Dial Desk Watch Showing Decimal and Traditional Time, c. 1795 after 1807, The Frick Collection, Bequest of Winthrop Kellogg Edey; photo: Michael Bodycomb

Precision and Splendor: Clocks and Watches at The Frick Collection, Abraham-Louis Breguet, Antoine-Louis Breguet, Breguet Frick Collection, Double-Dial Desk Watch Showing Decimal and Traditional Time, Winthrop Kellogg Edey, The Frick Collection

Open
Abraham-Louis Breguet (17471823) and Antoine-Louis Breguet (17761858), Gold and Silver Double-Dial Desk Watch Showing Decimal and Traditional Time, c. 1795 after 1807, The Frick Collection, Bequest of Winthrop Kellogg Edey; photo: Michael Bodycomb

Note the amazing simplicity of the movement. Minimalistic, undecorated, and effective!

Next is a gold pocket watch with tourbillon. Breguet’s invention of the tourbillon is well documented, and its original purpose was to improve the accuracy of the watch in varying positions.

Precision and Splendor: Clocks and Watches at The Frick Collection, Abraham-Louis Breguet, Antoine-Louis Breguet, Breguet Frick Collection, Pocket Watch Tourbillon, Winthrop Kellogg Edey, The Frick Collection

Front
Abraham-Louis Breguet (17471823) and Antoine-Louis Breguet (17761858), Gold Pocket Watch with Tourbillon, c. 1820, The Frick Collection, Bequest of Winthrop Kellogg Edey; photo: Michael Bodycomb

Precision and Splendor: Clocks and Watches at The Frick Collection, Abraham-Louis Breguet, Antoine-Louis Breguet, Breguet Frick Collection, Pocket Watch Tourbillon, Winthrop Kellogg Edey, The Frick Collection

Back
Abraham-Louis Breguet (17471823) and Antoine-Louis Breguet (17761858), Gold Pocket Watch with Tourbillon, c. 1820, The Frick Collection, Bequest of Winthrop Kellogg Edey; photo: Michael Bodycomb

Precision and Splendor: Clocks and Watches at The Frick Collection, Abraham-Louis Breguet, Antoine-Louis Breguet, Breguet Frick Collection, Pocket Watch Tourbillon, Winthrop Kellogg Edey, The Frick Collection

Open
Abraham-Louis Breguet (17471823) and Antoine-Louis Breguet (17761858), Gold Pocket Watch with Tourbillon, c. 1820, The Frick Collection, Bequest of Winthrop Kellogg Edey; photo: Michael Bodycomb

Again, notice the simplicity of the movement! This is a practical invention for the person who wants the most accurate timepiece available!

And finally, an amazing carriage clock made in about 1811.

Precision and Splendor: Clocks and Watches at The Frick Collection, Abraham-Louis Breguet, Antoine-Louis Breguet, Breguet Frick Collection, Carriage Clock with Calendar, Winthrop Kellogg Edey, The Frick Collection

Front
Abraham-Louis Breguet (17471823) and Antoine-Louis Breguet (17761858), Gilt-Bronze Carriage Clock with Calendar, 1811, The Frick Collection, Bequest of Winthrop Kellogg Edey; photo: Michael Bodycomb

Precision and Splendor: Clocks and Watches at The Frick Collection, Abraham-Louis Breguet, Antoine-Louis Breguet, Breguet Frick Collection, Carriage Clock with Calendar, Winthrop Kellogg Edey, The Frick Collection

Back
Abraham-Louis Breguet (17471823) and Antoine-Louis Breguet (17761858), Gilt-Bronze Carriage Clock with Calendar, 1811, The Frick Collection, Bequest of Winthrop Kellogg Edey; photo: Michael Bodycomb

Precision and Splendor: Clocks and Watches at The Frick Collection, Abraham-Louis Breguet, Antoine-Louis Breguet, Breguet Frick Collection, Carriage Clock with Calendar, Winthrop Kellogg Edey, The Frick Collection

Open
Abraham-Louis Breguet (17471823) and Antoine-Louis Breguet (17761858), Gilt-Bronze Carriage Clock with Calendar, 1811, The Frick Collection, Bequest of Winthrop Kellogg Edey; photo: Michael Bodycomb

And, an amazing video showing the clock in action, from the Frick Collection.

Precision and Splendor: Clocks and Watches at The Frick Collection, Abraham-Louis Breguet, Antoine-Louis Breguet, Breguet Frick Collection, Carriage Clock, Winthrop Kellogg Edey, The Frick Collection

Important watches and a carriage clock by Breguet, in Precision and Splendor: Clocks and Watches at The Frick Collection, now on view in the Portico Gallery of The Frick Collection, New York; photo: Michael Bodycomb

All in all, an amazing opportunity to see an incredible collection, and thanks to Breguet and the Frick Collection, especially Michael Nelson of Breguet and Charlotte Vignon of the Frick for the opportunity to see this special exhibit and share it with the TimeZone community.

Installation view, looking east at Precision and Splendor: Clocks and Watches at The Frick Collection, now on view in the Portico Gallery of The Frick Collection, New York; photo: Michael Bodycomb

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Visiting the Shinola Watch Factory in Detroit

Michael Schott

I recently had the opportunity to visit the Shinola headquarters and watch factory in Detroit, Michigan. As a Detroit native whose parents are also from Detroit, it is a point of pride to witness a true manufacturing operation in a city that has seen so much economic decline. Shinola is reinvigorating Detroit by hiring local employees to assemble its movements. Within a year, the company now employs a large number of skilled workers who are trained to the highest industry standards.

Visiting the Shinola Watch Factory in Detroit, Shinola, Shinola Watch Factory, Shinola Detroit, Argonaut Building

Shinola is located in the former Argonaut Building that now houses the College for Creative Studies in the New Center area of Detroit, near the Detroit Institute of Arts and Wayne State University. For those unfamiliar with the city, New Center is an historical district with landmark buildings such as the Fisher Building, an Art Deco skyscraper that is home to the Fisher Theater, one of Detroit’s oldest live theatre venues.

Shinola, Shinola Watch Factory, Shinola Detroit, Argonaut Building

Visiting the Shinola Watch Factory in Detroit, Shinola, Shinola Watch Factory, Shinola Detroit, Argonaut Building
A lobby sculpture in the College for Creative Studies

Shinola started retailing watches in mid-2013, initially through an exclusive agreement with Barneys New York. Later that same year, Shinola watches retailed through a national retail network. In its first year, Shinola sold approximately 50,000 watches. In addition to watches, Shinola also manufactures artisanal leather goods, bicycles, shoe polish and Michigan-made paper goods.

The Shinola factory manufactures watches nearly from scratch. Ronda, AG from Switzerland provides Swiss-made component parts that are assembled into complete quartz movements. Ronda is a part owner of Shinola and not only trained the watchmakers, but also supplied the state-of-the-art machinery to assemble and test the movements. Within its 30,000 square foot factory, Shinola combines meticulous hand-assembly with the most advanced equipment to ensure its watches are both beautiful and built to last.

The movement assembly area:

Visiting the Shinola Watch Factory in Detroit, Shinola, Shinola Watch Factory, Shinola Detroit, Argonaut Building, movement assembly
The movement assembly area

The Quality Control area:

Visiting the Shinola Watch Factory in Detroit, Shinola, Shinola Watch Factory, Shinola Detroit, Argonaut Building, movement assembly
Quality control

Inspection of the dials:

Visiting the Shinola Watch Factory in Detroit, Shinola, Shinola Watch Factory, Shinola Detroit, Argonaut Building, movement assembly
Inspection of dials

Visiting the Shinola Watch Factory in Detroit, Shinola, Shinola Watch Factory, Shinola Detroit, Argonaut Building, Lanette Knighton
Lanette Knighton works in the dial inspection department

Moving to the assembly department, watchmakers lubricate the stems prior to insertion to the cases.

Visiting the Shinola Watch Factory in Detroit, Shinola, Shinola Watch Factory, Shinola Detroit, Argonaut Building, movement assembly
Nikki Holston lubricates the stems prior to inserting into the case

Visiting the Shinola Watch Factory in Detroit, Shinola, Shinola Watch Factory, Shinola Detroit, Argonaut Building, movement assembly

Movement assembly:

Visiting the Shinola Watch Factory in Detroit, Shinola, Shinola Watch Factory, Shinola Detroit, Argonaut Building, movement assembly

Visiting the Shinola Watch Factory in Detroit, Shinola, Shinola Watch Factory, Shinola Detroit, Argonaut Building, movement assembly

Attaching the hands:

Visiting the Shinola Watch Factory in Detroit, Shinola, Shinola Watch Factory, Shinola Detroit, Argonaut Building, dial assembly
The watchmaker in the foreground is attaching the hands to the dial

To attach the hands to the dial, the watchmaker must align them precisely and the machine will press them onto the pinions.

Visiting the Shinola Watch Factory in Detroit, Shinola, Shinola Watch Factory, Shinola Detroit, Argonaut Building, dial assembly

Movements are attached to the back of the dial, a spacer added later will hold it all together:

Visiting the Shinola Watch Factory in Detroit, Shinola, Shinola Watch Factory, Shinola Detroit, Argonaut Building, dial assembly

Pressure testing machinery:

Visiting the Shinola Watch Factory in Detroit, Shinola, Shinola Watch Factory, Shinola Detroit, Argonaut Building, dial assembly

Visiting the Shinola Watch Factory in Detroit, Shinola, Shinola Watch Factory, Shinola Detroit, Argonaut Building, dial assembly
Two green check marks mean the case has passed the pressure test

A watch as it exits the pressure test machinery:

Visiting the Shinola Watch Factory in Detroit, Shinola, Shinola Watch Factory, Shinola Detroit, Argonaut Building, dial assembly

Visiting the Shinola Watch Factory in Detroit, Shinola, Shinola Watch Factory, Shinola Detroit, Argonaut Building, dial assembly
Jaleel Kizy, a WOSTEP graduate and certified watchmaker

Following the tour, I sat down with Steven Bock, CEO of Shinola, to discuss the company and its watches. This is a summary of our conversation.

TimeZone (TZ): How did Shinola get its start?

Steven Bock (SB): Shinola came from ideas that had been percolating for many years. The primary thought was to fully manufacture watches in the United States along with being a multi-faceted company helping in a small way to enrich the city of Detroit and help its comeback. Shinola is recreating on a large scale watchmaking history in the United States. RGM does this on a much smaller and higher end way. Whereas, Shinola is looking at manufacturing at scale and picking up on the traditions of Hamilton and other large watch companies formerly located in the Lancaster, Pennsylvania area.

TZ: What is the company’s philosophy?

SB: To create a high quality product at attractive prices, available to a large audience, designed and hand made in America with as many domestically made parts as possible while keeping in mind the value of the product. The drive for quality is paramount. Once again, sourcing as many parts as possible in the US is the key to this philosophy. The history of manufacturing and creative design drove the decision to manufacture in Detroit as well as the above mentioned ability to help in a small way with the city’s recovery. Shinola believes in the future of Detroit and wants to be a small part of this future. This belief is deeply rooted in our philosophy. Our watch cases, dials, hands and crystals are made in China. If the time comes when we can source these in the US and keep our commitment to quality and value, then we’ll change to domestic suppliers. Shinola uses handmade production processes for its products because we believe these methods yield an unmatched level of quality and an unsurpassed ability to conduct quality control. Our hope is to cultivate a cottage industry of suppliers who will move their operations to Detroit in order to supply us with needed components. With hard work and collaboration, we believe we can establish Shinola as an iconic brand, while expanding the capacity and reinvigorating the spirit of manufacturing in America.

TZ: What does the future hold for Shinola?

SB: We are working hard to expand our manufacturing facility. Currently, we are building a leather goods factory as part of this plant and will be opening a distribution center in Detroit. Expansion of retail outlets is a goal and, in 2014, we are opening a few new stores in Minneapolis, the Washington DC area and in Chicago. Expansion in Europe is also part of this goal with stores planned for Berlin and London.

TZ: What is Shinola’s target market?

SB: Shinola’s market is very broad. It’s not confined to a narrow target as we see our products as interesting, appealing to a broad audience with no age definition and with products that appeal to men and women. A reasonable price [$475.00 to $1000.00] is key.

TZ: Are there plans to use mechanical movements in the future?

SB: This has been discussed but this will not happen until we have the manufacturing expertise to build mechanical movements in the US. We will need to train workers to build, test and regulate mechanical movements. Only when we’re satisfied that the workforce is ready will we make this step.

TZ: Why the “Shinola” name?

SB: Yes, the name can evoke strong reactions. But there is a great ring to the name and a great story. There is a sense of irreverence to the name which is part of Shinola’s philosophy.

TZ: My thanks to you for sharing your time, candor and passion.

Shinola, Shinola Watch Factory, Shinola Detroit, Argonaut Building, Argonite-5021, Runwell Chronograph
Shinola Runwell Chronograph

Shinola, Shinola Watch Factory, Shinola Detroit, Argonaut Building, Argonite-1069, Runwell
Shinola Runwell – Built in Detroit

Shinola, Shinola Watch Factory, Shinola Detroit, Argonaut Building, Argonite-705, Built in Detroit
Each case back is individually numbered

See also: Basel 2013: Introducing Shinola

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Seiko: Ancient and Modern

James Dowling

Hi All,

In 1973 Seiko introduced the first ever analog quartz chronograph movement, the 7a28. It had a number of really interesting features like a tenth of a seconds register and was fitted with fifteen jewels, almost as many as contemporary manual chronographs. The movement was almost completely built from metal and looked more like a mechanical movement than a quartz one. With this robust construction it proved to be an exceptionally tough watch & the British Royal Air Force bought over 11,000 of them to equip pilots & navigators.

Apart from the almost austere Military version, unfortunately most of the watches fitted with the 7a28 were uniformly hideous in appearance; it was a time when Seiko were adding as many superfluous details as humanly possible and gold plating everything; so these wonderful movements were often ignored because the look of the cases just repelled potential clients. However, ten years after the movement was introduced, Giorgetto Giugiaro began to work as a consultant to Seiko; although best known as a car designer (everything from the first VW Golf to the Lotus Esprit) he had also designed lots of consumer products (cameras for Nikon & firearms for Beretta) and one of his first tasks was to design futuristic cases for the 7a28.

Designed for the car driver, the asymmetric cases pushed the chronograph buttons and watch dial out to the right; meaning that it would protrude further out from a shirt cuff than a regular watch and the buttons were in a contrasting colour to the case, so as to be easy to locate in low light. He made about half a dozen different designs for the movement; all of them probably a little too futuristic for the market at that time. But a couple of years later when James Cameron began to work on the film Aliens (set 100 years in the future) his production designer Peter Lamont cast around for objects which looked like they came from the future & the Guigiaro watches were obvious contenders.

The watch shown on the left is one of the originals, as worn by the Android ‘Bishop’ in the film (Sigourney Weaver, as Ripley, wore a different model of the 7a28) and next to it is the model launched last year to celebrate the thirtieth anniversary of the initial launch of the Guigiaro watches. As proof of how well built the original watches were, they cost ¥50,000 apiece when they were first sold; the current hommage sells for ¥33,600; I wonder how well the watch on the right will look in thirty years.

Seiko 7A28, Seiko 7A28-7000, Seiko Speedmaster, Giorgetto Giugiaro, Seiko Giugiaro, Seiko Aliens watch, Seiko Aliens Chronograph, Riley Aliens Watch, Bishop Watch

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Review: Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon

Amr Sindi

14 February 2014

Moon phase complications have always held a special place in my heart and may very well be the reason I ever got into watches. From the grandfather clock in my parents’ living room to the Patek perpetual calendar on my grandfather’s wrist (a 3940 in case you’re wondering), moon phases were all around me as a kid and pretty much became synonymous with “grownup” watches and clocks. In fact, the first fancy watch I ever that wasn’t a Swatch or Flik Flak was a gold-plated quartz Gucci with a moon phase, which as a 7-year old I thought was on par with my grandfather’s watches. Ignorance truly is bliss.

Fast-forward two decade and I’m just as fascinated by the moon as I was then. It could be because I come from a place where the moon is far more than just a glowing chunk of space-rock in the sky; where our life revolves around the moon and not the sun. Our calendar and festivities are based on its shifting shape. In fact in Arabic you can even compliment someone’s beauty by calling him/her the moon. So while a moon phase indication might not be nearly as useful as say a date function, I can’t deny that it is the most poetic of all complications.

In the majority of moon phase watches I’ve come across, the complication is made to remain relatively discrete, occupying a minor part of the dial’s real estate. Perhaps this is how buyers like it, but I’ve always wanted to see a watch where the moon takes on a much more prominent role. Enter the Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon.

Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon

Now here’s a brand that knows just how to reinterpret classical designs and make them their own. When I first saw the Perpetual Moon during Baselworld 2013, it was one of the most pleasant surprises of the show. Keep in mind that Arnold & Son were also showing some higher-end pieces like their record-breaking UTTE ultra-thin tourbillon. But for me, the watch with the giant, sculpted moon stood above the rest. It was as if the designers in La Chaux-de-Fonds had read my mind and come up with the moon phase I’ve always wanted but never pictured.

Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon

The HM Perpetual Moon comes in three different versions: a stainless steel case with a black guilloche dial, a red gold case with a matte cream dial and a red gold case with a royal blue translucent enamel guilloché dial. Needless to say, this is one of the largest moons and moon phase disks you’ll ever see on a watch, with the disk measuring a whopping 29mm in diameter with a 11.2mm moon. You really can’t avoid it since it takes up almost half of the dial. What I especially like on the steel and blue enamel versions is how the moon phase disk seamlessly blends in with the rest of the dial. The faceted hands are polished on one side and satin-brushed on the other, making them easy to read under just about any lighting condition.

Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon

Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon

Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon

The moon is a sculpture in itself that deserves the center stage position on the watch. Not only is it photorealistic, it is also very three-dimensional, second only to spherical moon phase indications. It’s made from an initial hand-engraved model that is duplicated for the production series.

Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon

Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon

The 42mm case is one of Arnold & Son’s more reasonably sized ones, as befits a watch of this genre. I’m sure many of you probably find 42mm a tad large, but keep in mind that the case tapers down from the bezel to the case-back, making it wear more comfortably than say my 42mm IWC Portuguese. There’s a corrector for the moon-phase at 2 o’clock, but if you keep the watch running you probably won’t use it much as this is, as the name implies, a perpetual moon phase complication that is subject to only 1 day’s deviation every 122 years.

Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon

Unlike other moon phase watches where the complication is a modular add-on to the movement, the HM Perpetual Moon has an integrated moon phase movement, where it was designed and built from the ground up around the moon. The proof is the secondary moon phase indication on the top plate case-back side of the watch, which allows accurate setting of the moon even when it’s not visible on the dial.

Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon

Like all other Arnold & Son manufacture movements, you can expect a high-level of hand finishing and decoration. The manually chamfered edges and polished edges are on par with the best of them. The screws are flame-blued, and the radial Côte-de-Genève stripes are softer and less “grainy” than on movements where they’re applied by machines. Leaving the Arnold & Son booth, I was somewhat disheartened by the less flattering industrial finish on my Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Grande Sun Moon that I was wearing that day in Baselworld.

Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon

Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon

The great thing here is that whether you opt for the more affordable steel version or either of the ornate gold versions, you’re getting exactly the same level of overall finish. I admire Arnold & Son for almost always offering a non-gold white metal case option.

All in all I feel that this is a watch with enough classical elements to make it a piece appropriate for dressier occasions, while at the same time being so unique that I can totally see it becoming a part of my usual watch rotation.

Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon

Thanks for reading.

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Jean-Claude Biver Hosts a Hublot Night Out at the Barclays Center


12 February 2014

The Barclays Center, the state-of-the-art home of the NBA’s Brooklyn Nets, welcomed Hublotistas and VIP watch fans from the TimeZone community for a big night out of conversation, cocktails and dinner with Jean-Claude Biver. The Hublot chairman and guests were welcomed to the event by 10-time NBA All-Star and Brooklyn Nets head coach Jason Kidd.


Jason Kidd: 10-time NBA All-Star and Brooklyn Nets Head Coach

The occasion served as the US premiere of collections that recently debuted at the Geneva Fair, including the limited edition Big Bang Unico All Black 45mm, Big Bang Dark Jeans, the three new Big Bang Ferrari 2014 references and the Classic Fusion Night Out Tourbillon, which was the refined tuxedo inspired icon for the evening. The MP-05 LaFerrari with the World Record 50 days of power reserve also made a stateside appearance to the excitement of onlookers, including many fellow watch executives who attended as friends of Mr. Biver.


TimeZone’s Andrew Luff & Jean-Claude Biver during the Q&A session

Andrew Luff of TimeZone moderated the Q&A session with such questions as, “How do you keep the passion alive?” to “How does the Big Bang evolve over time?” Jean-Claude Biver both began and ended the conversation that it’s “all about love” with regard to what he does and how he does it.

The relationship between Hublot and the Barclays Center began when the ultra-modern arena opened its doors in 2012 as the new home of the Brooklyn Nets. The partnership makes Hublot the Official Timekeeper and Watch of both Barclays and the Nets, with the arena boasting over 100 oversized Hublot clocks! In 2013, Coach Jason Kidd became a friend of the Hublot brand and he is regularly seen wearing his Big Bang Unico or Classic Fusion Skeleton while coaching from the sidelines.

The partnership is founded both on the brand’s support of sport and philanthropy, two key pillars also illustrated by partnerships with the Miami Heat, Los Angeles Lakers, Usain Bolt, Bayern Munich and Turin’s Juventus soccer teams and their charitable initiatives.

In this case it is not only the Center’s rapidly rising Brooklyn Nets basketball team, but also the Jason Kidd Foundation that is dedicated to improving youth education through mentoring, tutoring and technology programs.

In the customary Hublot spirit, Mr. Biver presented coach Jason Kidd with a check to support the ongoing efforts of the Jason Kidd Foundation and the great work they do in the greater Metro Area.

To provide Mr. Biver and the many visiting guests a warm welcome to Brooklyn, dinner was a fresh-local culinary affair prepared by popular Brooklyn restaurants such as Calexico, Fresco by Scotto, Redhook Lobster Pound, and dessert by The Chocolate Room.


Zenith CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour with Jean-Claude Biver


Jean-Claude Biver with Jason Kidd and his family


Jean-Claude Biver kickin’ it at Barclays Center

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Review: Glashütte Original PanoMatic Counter XL

by Kevin Goodman

8 February 2014

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With Basel 2014 weeks away I recently had the opportunity to spend a week with a Basel 2010 release, the Glashütte Original PanoMatic Counter XL. Before I start my journey with this watch I think a refresher in GO history is in order

Glashutte Original German Watchmaking Art Since 1845

Glashutte Original traces a continuous history of watchmaking in Germany back to 1845. Glashutte Original has its origins the Industrial Revolution which started in England and America a century earlier. A watchmakers guild had been established in Dresden since 1668 and its members flourished as the city became the administrative and commercial capital of a thriving Central European empire.

The story of Ferdinand Lange’s role in creating a watch industry is widely known, as were the economic ups and downs. But the biggest upset to the Glashütte story was to come after World War II, when the so-called Iron Curtain descended across Europe and the small town became part of the DDR (the former East Germany). All its watchmaking enterprises were nationalized as a people’s cooperative, the VEB Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe (GUB). With a captive market in the Warsaw Pact, the GUB continued to produce both mechanical and quartz watches throughout the 1970s, when the Swiss industry was almost wiped out by the quartz revolution. Although the output of the GUB was rather utilitarian throughout the DDR’s existence, the watchmaking skills and industrial capacity developed over 100 years were nonetheless retained.

From Utilitarian to Haute Horology

After the collapse of the Soviet Union, Germany was reunified in 1989. It was during this time that the seed was sown for the luxury watch manufacturer that we know today. In 1990 Heinz Pfeiffer, a German entrepreneur and a dedicated watch collector along with another investor, brought the entire GUB from the state privatization board and renamed it Glashutte Original. Pfeifer realized that the only viable future lay in switching production to high-quality, hand-finished watches for the serious end of the market. His first limited-edition (25) Julius Assmann , with flying tourbillion and perpetual calendar, sold out instantly at DM290,000 ($160,000) each and established the credentials of his ‘Glashutte Original’ brand.

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This is a later model of the Julius Assmann from 2007

The company was purchased by the Swatch Group and added to its list of high end brands (Breguet, Blancpain, and later on Jacquet Droz)

PanoMatic Counter XL

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The PanoMatic Counter XL was released at Basel in 2010. 2010 found the world still in the grips of a severe recession and this watch seemed to reflect those times. It comes in a stainless steel case rather than precious metal, which could be considered standard for a watch of this caliber. The steel case make this fine German chronograph more “affordable”. The PanoMatic Counter XL is a substantial watch with a dominating presence. The 44 mm diameter and height of 16 mm give this watch a sporty feel. Despite the size of the watch it fit quite comfortably on the wrist. The comfortable fit is attributed to the lug spacing that gives the watch a nice fit even on a small wrist (I never include wrist shots because I have a problem showing a fine mechanical watch being engulfed by wrist hairs).

The dial of the PanoMatic Counter XL seems fairly straightforward. It’s a fly-back chronograph with a “big date” display located at 3 o’clock. The hour and minute display are located in the traditional Glashütte Original subdial configuration at 6 o’clock. There are two subdials on either side of the large chronograph second hand display – a second hand subdial on the left, and a 30 minute counter on the right hand side. Although the dial is great to look at the 3D second counter partially obstructs reading of the subdials. The two pushers on the right of the dial operate the chronograph. The pusher at 4 starts and stops the chronograph and the one at two operates the flyback function and resets the chronograph to zero when it is fully stopped.

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Set against the matte black dial, the complications on this 44mm diameter watch are arranged and easy to read. The interesting novelty on the PanoMatic Counter XL is the red two-digit “counter” complication located at 9 o’clock on the dial. The red digits on the counter clearly distinguish it from the white ones featured on the big date.

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The counter complication is controlled by pushers on the left-hand side of the case – the pusher at 10 o’clock resets the counter, the 9’oclock pusher advances the counter by 1, and the pusher at 8 o’clock brings the counter backward by 1.

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The counter pushers

You may ask why a counter function and that same question can be asked about many other complications. In short you can use it to count. Count day, weeks how many times your boss says “kinda” in a meeting. It is a complication that can entertain as well as possibly have some functionality

The dial of the PanoMatic Counter XL is protected by a sapphire crystal,

The Caliber 96-01 is a mechanical self-winding movement based on the award winning Caliber 95. The movement is comprised of 584 parts ( 217 of which are attributed to the counter complication) and 72 jewels, which beat at 28,000 beats per hour. This movement is made entirely in house by Glashutte Original. The movement is viewed through the sapphire crystal display back. Highlights of the movement include the column wheel used to engage the chronograph and the free sprung balance both must have for some watch purists.

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The PanoMatic Counter XL has a black Louisiana alligator leather strap with a brushed stainless steel two-button, bi-fold clasp. The brushed stainless steel clasp is nice as it is less apt to show the scratches as opposed to a highly polished surface. It also adds to the sporty feel of the watch. Those disappointed by the discontinuation of the bi-fold clasp in other GO models will be glad to see that it is still present in this model.

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Conclusion

I started this article with a short summary of Glashutte Original. My point being is that Glashutte Original in its post Iron Curtain status is a young company. That has not stopped this luxury manufacturer from pushing the envelope and creating some wonderful timepieces. The PanoMatic Counter XL follows in that line by giving us an excellent time keeper coupled with a counter that acts independently of the watch movement. I have also recently bemoaned the fact that Glashutte Original no longer carries sport watches in their collection. The XL Counter proves me wrong, it’s stainless steel case and dominating wrist presence definitely give this one a “sport” watch feel. As we approach Basel 2014 I am very excited to see what lies in store for us from Glashutte Original

Kevin Goodman

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GMT Watches and the Nomos Zurich Weltzeit

Edward Hahn

1 February 2014

GMT Watches – How do they Work?
Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) or dual time watches are a fairly common complication in today’s watch world – they allow one to set a second timezone without interrupting the timekeeping, usually with the ability to track your original timezone. They are marketed as useful for world travelers, pilots, and global businessmen – and largely deliver on that promise.

The simplest dual-time watches use two separate movements and dials, which is certainly a pragmatic (if brute-force) method to achieve this goal.

But some would say the classic GMT watch is exemplified by the Rolex GMT Master II, which allows one to adjust the hour hand (and date) both forward and backwards by hour increments, allowing one to read the local time using the “regular” hands. A second, non-quick-adjusting 24 hour hand is provided as reference to hometime, and a rotating bezel allows for the readout of a third timezone (if you can keep them straight in your head.)

Other watches which have this kind of mechanism include the Omega Seamaster GMT movements, which are more sophisticated than the ETA 2893 movements made elsewhere in the Swatch group.

But how does a watch manage to have that indepedently adjustable hour hand in the first place?

The Basics
One of the more basic mechanisms in a watch is the provision of a detent, or method for ensuring that a display is kept aligned with a marker rather than rotating freely. Detents are found on window dates (where they keep the date centered in the window until it’s time to change) and on many chronograph counters (advancing the minute counter one minute at a time.)

A detent is very simple in conception:


This diagram shows a piece of brass (colored yellow) that has been given an edge with a saw-tooth profile. A detent spring (in white) presses down on the saw-tooth, and naturally seeks one of the “valleys” in between two teeth. This mechanism will therefore stay stationary in one position until you poke it left or right. Once it moves one or more slots, the detent spring will again want to fall into a valley.

If you imagine the piece of brass curved into a ring, with the teeth facing inward, that’s basically what a typical date ring looks like. There’s a separate mechanism that gives the date ring a kick one notch over, once a day at midnight.

Now, think about a chronograph minute counter that advances once per minute. Instead of a ring, the mechanism it turned into a gear-like object, with teeth facing outward:


On the top left, you can see the top view of a gear with saw-tooth gears around the outside. As before, there’s a detent spring that causes the gear to want to stay in a set number of positions (12 in this example, but 30 for a typical 30 minute counter.)

The bottom left is a side view that shows how this mechanism can be shaped to carry a hand – in this case, the gear is located on one end of a pipe, to which a hand can be fitted. The right side pictures show a 3D view from the top and bottom angle.

Finally let’s get more complicated and show how a typical GMT movement like the Rolex displays the time. Imagine that instead of having a fixed detent spring, you attach it to another gear, which fits over the sawtooth wheel:


In the top left, we are actually looking at the underside of the assembly. The sawtooth wheel is as before, but the detent spring is now fastened to a new wheel shown in brown.

From the side view (bottom left), one can see that the new wheel nests itself over the sawtooth wheel. The two wheels can still rotate independently of each other (there’s lubrication between them), but the brown wheel will always be in one of 12 positions relative to the yellow wheel.

As before, the right side views show what’s going on in 3D from above and below.

In this case, the adjustable hour hand can be mounted to the brown wheel, which can then be moved into one of twelve detents in the yellow sawtooth wheel. It will also rotate with the yellow sawtooth wheel, which is connected to the timekeeping part of the movement.

(Note: Most versions of this arrangement, including the Rolex and Omega implementation, actually flips this mechanism around – the outer wheel carries the 24 hour hand, and the inner wheel carries the quick adjusting 12 hour hand and detent spring. But the concept is the same. I’ve also omitted some intermediate gearing to simplify the drawing, including the teeth on the edge of the brown wheel, needed to drive the hour hand pipe back and forth. Also, the sawtoothed gears aren’t always shaped that way.)

Which brings us to…

The Nomos Zurich Weltzeit

In 1990, the modern Nomos watch company was founded in January 1990 in Glashutte, the historical watchmaking region of Germany. This in itself is fairly remarkable, as Germany itself didn’t get around to reunification until October of that year.

From the beginning, Nomos has offered a unique set of watches, aligned with the principles of the Bauhaus movement: simple dials and crisp clear printing that facilitate the reading of time on their watches. Initially offered using ETA/Peseux 7001 handwind movements, Nomos has since become a true manufacture, and now only offers watches with in-house movements.

Twenty-four years on, the typical Nomos watch can still be spotted from across the room – a simple white or black dial, stick hands, a simple case with hardly any bezel, and a true cordovan leather strap.

To some extent that has changed with the introduction of the Zurich Weltzeit (“World Time”) and the Xi (ξ) caliber in 2010/2011. While the Tangente GMT version offered a relatively small departure from the canonical Nomos design, the Zurich Weltzeit showed off the design of the movement with a circumferential ring of city names and a disc-based display of home-time at 3 o’clock.

Despite the plethora of dial printing, the watch still manages to carry off the Bauhaus design language.


The dial printing is small, but given the super clean font that Nomos uses, along with the high contrast black on matte silver dial, the watch is quite readable.

The Weltzeit is easy to operate – first, tell the watch what timezone is hometime by pressing the pusher at 2 until your home city is shown at 12 o’clock. Second, sync the hour hand with the hometime (“Heimat”) indicator at 3 o’clock via a corrector at 8 o’clock. Finally, set the correct time.

When traveling, press the pusher at 2 o’clock until a city corresponding to your new timezone appears under the 12 o’clock – the hand will automatically advance (in 1 hour increments) along with your pushes.


Nomos Xi caliber, based on the automatic Epsilon movement. Unfortunately, there’s not much visible to distinguish the two from this side of the movement.

In this case, the worldtime movement uses *two* sets of detents to display and adjust to the time in different cities. The city ring has 24 teeth in the inside surface, corresponding to the 24 time zones that are whole hours from each other.

Unlike the Rolex GMT, the 24 hour indicator is not in the center of the watch, but is relocated to 3 o’clock. Nevertheless, underneath the center of the dial is a sawtooth detent wheel arrangement.

The Zurich watch has a slightly different case from the Tangente, and for Nomos is quite large at 39.9mm. As with the Tangente, the bezel is very thin and the dial is quite large – and as a result the watch has a very substantial presence on the wrist.


The case and substantial lugs are all polished to a mirror finish, and the crown is engraved with the Nomos logo. A stand-off on the case makes the crown especially easy to operate.

The hands are all polished, and the hour and minute hands are faceted. The case is water resistant to 3 atmospheres – but you wouldn’t want to dive with the very nice Horween cordovan leather strap anyway.

Closing Thoughts
As mentioned earlier, there are many different ways to display a second timezone. Patek Philippe’s worldtimers go a step further, by adding a moving 24 hour ring that allows one to see the time in other cities without making any adjustments to the watch. At the other end of the spectrum, mechanisms such as ETA 2893-based watches choose to adjust the 24-hour hand, which presents some issues which I personally dislike.

The path chosen by Nomos makes for a striking departure from their earlier lines, but also has a simple elegance to it. In that sense, maybe it’s not a departure at all.

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PHOTO REPORT: Cartier Novelties at SIHH 2014

Paul Boutros

27 January 2014

Once again, Cartier came out in full force this year with several major new introductions across its regular collection and their Fine Watchmaking Collection (FWC).

For those unfamiliar with Cartier’s FWC, it’s a collection that was launched in 2008 comprising their high watchmaking timepieces that feature high-grade finishing and/or complications. Since 2008, the brand has introduced 29 new movements, five of which are new in 2014.

Thanks to the Cartier North American team, I had the opportunity to photograph all of the new Fine Watchmaking Collection watches – which were organized around two themes:

Theme 1: Technical Creativity
* Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch
* Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch

Theme 2: Creative Elegance
* Rotonde de Cartier Day and Night watch with retrograde moon phases
* Tank Louis Cartier Sapphire Skeleton watch
* Tank MC Two-tone Skeleton watch
* Ballon Bleu de Cartier 39 mm Flying Tourbillon watches
* Rotonde de Cartier Tourbillon Chronograph watch with 8-day power reserve

Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire
Cartier has created an entirely new take on a perpetual calendar watch, with calendar indications arranged on three levels, like an arena, with a flying tourbillon at center stage. Arranged in three dimensions at three different, concentric levels, thin blue, PVD-coated windows move around these levels to indicate the date, day, and month. The leap year is indicated by a hand on the movement side of the watch.

The innovative display is backed by significant innovation within the movement. A gear train system within the fully in-house Cartier caliber 9459 MC eliminates levers and springs used in traditional perpetual calendar movements. With just gears and wheels, the risk of breaking the mechanism during setting at any time is significantly reduced, and has the additional benefit of significantly decreasing the energy required to power the calendar changes. The result is less impact on the amplitude of the balance wheel for greater timekeeping accuracy. Calendar setting is performed rapidly through the crown through three positions, and the correct date can be set both forwards and backwards.

Certified by the new Geneva Seal criteria, finishing and accuracy are of the highest levels.

Limited to just 100 pieces, the case is platinum, and measures 45 mm in diameter with a thickness of 15.1 mm.

An additional side note, I spoke with Carole Forestier-Kasapi, Cartier’s amazingly talented Head of Fine Watchmaking, who shared with me that it was her dream for 20 years to create a perpetual calendar mechanism powered by all gears. She certainly succeeded!

Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon
In my opinion, the most original implementation of a moon phase display. At six o’clock, a tourbillon-equipped escapement symbolizes the moon. A lapis lazuli moon disk obscures the tourbillon on demand via the pusher at four o’clock, sliding out from beneath the Roman numeral ‘IIII’ hour marker. The extent to which the tourbillon is covered by this mobile disk indicates the phase of the moon.

The 3D dial is made of lapis lazuli and white gold, and also includes a GMT function surrounding the main timekeeping dial. Housing the in-house Cartier caliber 9440 MC with 362 parts, the platinum case measures 47 mm in diameter with a thickness of 16.65 mm. It’s limited to just 50 pieces.

Rotonde de Cartier Day and Night
Another poetic watch with astronomical complications, this Rotonde de Cartier features a rotating day / night indicator on the top half of the dial, and a retrograding moon phase indicator on the lower half. Powered by the in-house Cartier caliber 9912 MC, the case measures 43.5 mm in diameter with a thickness of 12.77 mm. It’s available in 18 karat pink gold or palladium.

Tank Louis Cartier Sapphire Skeleton
One of my favorite watches of the show, this sublime Tank watch uses a sapphire crystal movement plate to maximize transparency. The architecture of the movement is composed of adjoining metallic circles (patent pending) linked with a circular bridge. In 18 karat white gold, the case measures 30 mm side by 39.2 mm long. It houses the manual-winding, in-house caliber 9616 MC with approx. 72 hours of power reserve.

Tank MC Two-tone Skeleton
Another favorite of mine, the use of a three-step galvanic treatment process results in two different colors on the movement. Rose gold is found on the bevelled edges and NAC coatings are used for the gray color. The effect is superb, with the rose gold highlighting the skeletonized Roman numerals brilliantly – reflecting light like laser beams. The caliber 9619 MC is comprised of 138 parts and provides approx. 72 hours of power reserve. The case is in 18 karat pink gold and measures 34.5 mm x 43.8 mm.

Ballon Bleu de Cartier 39 mm Flying Tourbillon
Featuring a gorgeous blue enamel dial, the Ballon Blue with flying tourbillon is now available in a smaller case size measuring 39 mm – significantly smaller than the 46 mm case of the original launched in 2008. It’s limited to 100 pieces in 18 karat white gold. A second, non-limited variant is available in 18 karat pink gold with a slate gray colored galvanized guilloché dial.

Rotonde de Cartier Tourbillon Chronograph
With 8 days of power reserve and tourbillon, the in-house caliber 9438 MC features a classic column wheel chronograph with vertical clutch. Limited to just 50 pieces, the 18 karat pink gold measures 45 mm in diameter and 16.4 mm thick.

Thanks for viewing,

Paul

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LIVE Photos of A. Lange & Söhne at SIHH 2014 by PAUL BOUTROS

Hi All,

Below are some photos I was able to take during my short, 30-minute SIHH appointment this week. The demand for the watches was very strong, and in some cases, I had literally less than one minute to take the photos, so please forgive the dust, fingerprints, etc.

Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar “Terraluna”
Lange’s major – and spectacular – introduction for 2014, the Terraluna’s regulator dial features a perpetual calendar with large date complication and power reserve indicator aperture at 6 o’clock. Turn the watch around and a stunning orbital moon phase display can be found. The moon phase is set within a rotating celestial disc made of gold, illustrated with a map of the stars of the northern hemisphere that indicates day and night along with the position of the sun and moon.

The caliber L096.1 features a 14-day power reserve with remointoir (constant-force) controlled escapement. In rose or white gold, the case measures 45.5 mm in diameter with a thickness of 16.5 mm.

Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase
Pre-announced in late 2013, the new Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase features a prominent, and highly accurate, moon phase disk measuring 14.3 mm within the main-timekeeping sub-dial. Available in platinum or 18 karat rose or yellow gold, the case measures 41 mm in diameter with a thickness of 9.5 mm.

In yellow gold…

In rose gold…

All three…

1815 Tourbillon
The new 1815 Tourbillon incorporates Lange’s patented zero-reset mechanism and a stop-seconds function, both immediately engaging once the crown is pulled out. The in-house caliber L102.1 provides 72 hours of power reserve using 262 parts. In 18 karat pink gold, or a limited edition of 100 in platinum, the case measures 39.5 mm in diameter with a thickness of 11.1 mm.

1815 with 38.5 mm Case
Slightly downsized from the 40 mm version of the 1815, this 38.5 mm variant houses the manual-winding Lange caliber L051.1 that provides 55 hours of power reserve. Available in 18 karat pink, yellow, or white gold, the case has a thickness of just 8.8 mm.

Lange Saxonia
A new version of the Saxonia for ladies, it’s available with a white or brown mother-of-pearl dial housed within an 18 karat white gold case with a bezel set with 60 diamonds.

My thanks to Lange’s Alexandra Haxton for her great help in allowing me to take these photos of A. Lange & Söhne at SIHH 2014.

Best,

Paul

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PHOTO REPORT: Jaeger-LeCoultre Novelties at SIHH 2014 by HOWARD PARR

The 2014 additions to the Jaeger-LeCoultre collection were once again received with much applause, as they continue to
showcase the design and technology that is their true forte

The most complex of the new pieces was the Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon

The watch is a mere 7.9mm in overall height, carries 8 patents, has 471 components, and includes such features as a retractable push-button actuator, a peripheral rotor, a flying tourbillon with inverted hairspring, and the brand’s patented attachment of the repeater gongs to the sapphire crystal itself. Most interesting is the mechanism, which eliminates the usual delay between the hours->quarter hours->minutes chiming segments, thereby reducing the overall actuation to a fraction of the typical duration.

This piece was in the display case only, so unfortunately we’ll have to wait until later in the year to get some live pics.
In the meantime, this video offers a display of this masterpiece

Since the 80th anniversary of the Reverso in 2011, Jaeger-LeCoultre has produced a number of Reverso models in Tribute to some of its earliest versions. This year we see the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin “Chocolate”, a rose gold homage to a Reverso from 1934.

And shown with its vintage inspiration

The Reverso “Chocolate” ($18,800) comes with both a dark brown crocodile strap, as well as a handmade cordovan strap from the famed Argentine polo boot maker, Casa Fagliano.

Continuing with the Reverso Ultra Thin, new for this year is a remarkable Grande Reverso Night & Day

Housed in the same case dimensions as the other Ultra Thin models (27.4mm by 46.8mm), JLC has incorporated its 967B caliber automatic movement into this classic design. Even with the automatic movement, the watch is only 9.14mm thick.

Available in both stainless steel ($9,750) and pink gold ($19,200)

With solid case back for personalization

The Master series also has several Ultra Thin models introduced this year, including the
Master Ultra Thin 1907, which was previously released as the Limited Edition Jubilee model
The 39mm watch was not available to be photographed, so here is the press pic of this “knife-edged” ultra thin marvel,
which measures all of 4.05mm in overall height

And a wrist shot of the Jubilee version in platinum

 photo e8aa052ee1bee1df8b3413221f15cb66.jpg

The Master Ultra Thin “Grand Feu” with enamel dial
is also 39mm, houses the caliber 849, and will be photographed live in the coming months. It is only slightly thicker
than the 1907, at 5.04mm

The Master Ultra Thin Date ($16,700) comes in pink gold only, and measures 40mm x 7.4mm

The Master Ultra Thin is a stunning automatic with the caliber 896, and measures 38.5mm x 7.6mm

It too is available in both SS ($8500)

and pink gold ($15,200)

The sport segment of the Jaeger-LeCoultre collection receives one new addition in the
Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic ($15,600)

This piece is water resistant to 100m and has a power reserve of 65 hours.
It features a second time zone and Day/Night indicator

Finally, a couple of expansions in the Duometre line

The Unique Travel Time ($46,300), which was introduced last year as a Limited Edition in white gold, and now available in pink gold

The 42mm Duometre UTT showcases a jumping hour for the second time zone, a map of the world, and a dimensional globe with relation-to-GMT indication

With patented dual wing winding system

The Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire–previous winner of Timezone Watch of the Year–was introduced last year in a smaller, 40.5mm case size

This year, that same watch is now available in white gold, and with “grand feu” enamel dial ($62,500)

Thank you for reading the Jaeger-LeCoultre Novelties at SIHH 2014 photo report!

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PHOTO REPORT: Vacheron Constantin at SIHH 2014 by PAUL BOUTROS

Dear Friends,

This was the year of the skeleton watch for Vacheron Constantin, with several new skeleton models in the Métiers d’Art, Patrimony Traditionnelle, and Malte collections.

In addition, the Malte collection was updated, with exhibition casebacks and mechanical movements replacing quartz movements for ladies’ timepieces.

While some, including me, were expecting a bit more as far as new introductions go, the general belief amongst attendees at SIHH was that Vacheron might be saving some big launches for their 260th anniversary next year.

Let’s start with this year’s new skeleton pieces…

Métiers d’Art Mécaniques Ajourées
Featuring the first skeletonized version of Vacheron’s in-house caliber 4400, the collection of three watches was inspired by the clocks and architecture found in large European railway stations of the late 19th century.

Three versions are available, with black, blue, or gray Grand Feu opaque enamel rings encircling the dial. Each is fitted with an open-worked Roman numeral ring made of 18 karat white gold.

The cases are 18 karat white gold and measure 40 mm in diameter, with a thickness of 7.5 mm.

Interestingly, according to Vacheron’s Alex Ghotbi, the caliber 4400 was designed from the beginning to yield an open, airy, and elegant architecture when skeletonized. The results prove Vacheron’s watchmakers’ foresight…the skeletonized version of the caliber is superb.

Version with gray Grand Feu enamel ring…

Version with baguette diamond bezel and black grand feu enamel ring…

Malte Tourbillon Openworked
The first skeleton watch in the Malte collection that was re-launched in 2012, this platinum Malte tourbillon features a new movement, the caliber 2790 with power reserve and date complications. It was skeletonized and hand engraved with an architectural motif based on the shape of a triangle.

The two-zone dial is comprised of two parts. On its exterior, an opaline slate-colored metallic ring is found, with painted minute track and applied metal hour markers. The interior zone is made of sapphire, with engraved and inked indications.

The case is platinum and measures 38.0 mm x 48.2 mm x 12.7 mm.

Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-Day Tourbillon Openworked
Among my favorite watches of this year’s SIHH, Vacheron created a skeletonized version of the superb caliber 2260 tourbillon movement with 14 days of power reserve. The motifs used for the engravings are original, gothic-inspired designs building on the theme of shapes within shapes.

The platinum case measures 42 mm in diameter, with a thickness of 12.2 mm.

Métiers d’Art Fabuleux Ornements
Drawing from the arts of several cultures, these ladies’ timepieces combine movement skeletonization with case ornamentations that reinterpret Ottoman architecture, Chinese embroidery, Indian manuscripts, and French lacework.

Cases are in 18 karat white or rose gold, measuring 37 mm in diameter with a thickness of 8 mm. Each case is fitted with a diamond-set bezel, and each is limited to 20 pieces.

Ottoman architecture…
Combining chamfering, mother of pearl, and half-pearl beads, the dial side features a moucharaby, or wooden lattice, motif.

Chinese embroidery…
Combining Grand Feu champlevé enamelling and hand engraving…

French lace…
Combining Guillochage, Grand Feu enamelling and gem-setting…

Three of the four watches (Indian manuscript was not available for my appointment)…

Malte
A white gold men’s Malte is new this year, featuring a redesigned dial with white gold hour markers that now conform to the curves of the case. In addition, a sapphire caseback is also new, allowing a partial view of the caliber 4400 housed within.

Finally, for ladies, new Malte models fitted with Vacheron’s in-house, manual winding caliber 1400 were introduced.

In pink gold…

In white gold with diamond bezel…

Best,
Paul

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From SIHH: Photo report of the Audemars Piguet 2014 Novelties by HOWARD PARR

AP CEO Francois-Henry Bennahmias said in our interview a year ago that AP was focused on “Fewer, Bigger, Better”

That translates to getting the most out of a concise and powerful representation of the brand, from the boutiques to the retailers, from number of watch references to ambassadors.

Fewer, Bigger, Better.

In 2012, upon the 40th Anniversary of the Royal Oak, AP mounted a massive exhibition of over 100 timepieces reflecting the history of the iconic design, an exhibit that toured a number of cities around the globe.

The Royal Oak collection was revised that year, and the result was a more cohesive, “family-like” feel to the pieces and their common dial details, bracelets, clasps, etc. In addition, the 39mm 15300 Royal Oak became the 41mm 15400 Royal Oak, and the Royal Oak Chronograph also made the same transition in size, which combined with the new elements gave the Royal Oak line a bit more sporty feel.

They said this past year that the 2014 collection would also be a strengthening of the core pieces, as they aim to keep model references in the collection for 10 years or more. Fewer, Bigger, Better. AP wanted to fortify the Royal Oak collection for 2014, and will make 2015 a year of expansion.

The Royal Oak Offshore is this year’s primary focus, and the 42mm Offshore line–as we’ve already seen in a couple of earlier posts–received some design inspiration directly by the original Royal Oak Offshore from 1993.

There are four new references in stainless steel, and two in rose gold. These pieces replace the current line of 42mm Offshore Chronographs, which are now discontinued.

The new 42mm Royal Oak Offshore models will officially launch the 8th of April, at which time all of them will be available for sale.

The angles are crisp, the precision in the production quite evident.

The pushers and crown which have been rubber for 20 years are now presented in ceramic.

A new version of the Safari is here. Refined, with a very expressive dial

And a new version of the Navy, with its orange accents similar to those found in the 39mm Royal Oak Chronograph

In stainless steel, the new 42mm Offshore is $26,000 on a strap and $25,600 on rubber (Navy)

**ALL 42mm Offshores now come on AP tang buckles

The new 42mm Rose Gold Offshore models have a stunning dial

And the bracelet has been reworked into a thinner version closer to that found on the Royal Oak Chronograph
So in 2014, the Royal Oak and Offshore lines have truly solidified into a cohesive feel throughout

The new 42mm RG Offshore pieces are, respectively, $40,700 on a strap; $69,200 on rose gold bracelet

AP continues to further its exploration into materials, and has focused on achieving the ultimate level of finishing in ceramic

Does anyone see a parallel to the original Royal Oak introduction in 1972, a stainless steel watch with the finishing complexity of a precious metal? And here in the Offshore, a contemporary response to the role of protection expressed since 1993 by the visible rubber seals, pusher and crown. But AP being AP, they use a material only when they can elevate it to the level of fine artistry. Which is precisely what we see in the Offshore Diver in white ceramic

First, we saw the Diver in stainless steel
Then in forged carbon
Last year introduced in black ceramic, which is 7 times harder than steel
And this year in white ceramic, which is an impressive 9 times harder than steel. When you see these pieces in person, it’s hard to fathom the finely brushed bezels, which take 8 hours to finish by hand

With an exhibition case back, as all 42mm Offshore chronograph models now have.

Like the black ceramic model, the white ceramic piece will be boutique-only, and at the same $23,900
It is expected to become available in June

Pictured here with the 44mm Offshore Chronograph in white ceramic ($41,700)

And a 44mm Offshore Chronograph in black ceramic, which is updated from last year’s model

Next of the new pieces for 2014 is the AP Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon in titanium with a white ceramic bezel
We’ve seen the Concept piece evolve since its introduction just over 10 years ago, and it is now treated to the leading edge of
AP’s materials exploration

With a spectacular new 2930 movement from AP, and its hourglass-shaped bridge

Next is the Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph, which was previously available in rose gold with a forged carbon bezel
With a 10-day power reserve, we now have the piece in platinum with a ceramic bezel

And a slightly different case than the rose gold

Finishing out the men’s 2014 Novelty Collection is a magnificent piece made available in 2012 for the 40th Anniversary of the Royal Oak
Then a platinum model in a limited edition, here is the Royal Oak Openworked Extra-Thin now in Rose Gold

Hope you enjoyed these, and a special thank you to the team at AP for all of their help in bringing these to Timezone.

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A Look at the JEANRICHARD Aeroscope Collection

Before I start packing my camera bag and polishing my shoes for SIHH, I wanted to share a quick look at the JEANRICHARD Aeroscope. After all, no sports watch range is complete without a chronograph!

Like the Terrascope, the brand’s staple time-only collection, the JEANRICHARD Aeroscope is based on the same multi-component construction with the same 44mm wide cushion-shaped case coupled with a round bezel. From the mix of satin-brushed and polished surfaces you’d think it was stainless steel, but actually the Aeroscope cases are all made of lightweight Grade 5 Titanium, and you can tell from the slightly greyer and warmer hue of the metal.

Because of the multi-component case construction, the Aeroscope can be made in a variety of case, dial and bezel combinations. This extent of this is best seen on one of the models with mixed DLC-treated and “natural” Titanium elements.

JEANRICHARD also has a few completely DLC-treated models, like the all black Neroscope and Aeroscope in black and orange.

The JEANRICHARD Aerscope comes with a fixed vertically satin-brushed bezel with seconds marking for the central chronograph. It has an aviator look to it with the 12 o’clock triangle marker, a small touch that gives the watch a lot more character in my eyes.

A feature I find they’ve done a great job on in keeping with the curved case profile of the Aeroscope is the choice of relatively slim rectangular pushers that don’t protrude out of the case so much. The pushers are surrounded by a “bumper” insert done in what JEANRICHARD refer to as “carbon fiber composite”.

Now let’s talk about the dial. Here you have a traditional tri-compax chronograph layout, where the sub-dials are equally sized and equidistant from the central hands axis. The dial is done in vertical satin brushing, with the sub-dials standing out in circular brushed patterns.

One of the coolest features on the Aeroscope is the skeleton arrow-shaped hands, where on the models with white tips, the paint is actually luminous so you get a sort of “inverted” lume look. Definitely deserves points for originality. The alternating Arabic and baton hour-markers are also luminous.

And while I love the clean layout and original hands, my only complaint about it is the large gap between the sub-dials and the rehaut chapter ring, a common trait in bigger cases with standard size movements. This makes the sub-dials appear too close to the center of the dial relative to edge of the dial. This is more obvious on certain models/color combinations than others, but is not something that would put me off the Aeroscope entirely. On the latest limited edition for Capt. Sully for instance, this is almost unnoticeable thanks to the 208 second spiral surrounding the sub-dials.

The movement is a Sellita SW300 base with a Dubois Depraz chronograph module. Because JEANRICHARD don’t see the point of putting display backs on non-manufacture movements (currently only in the 1681 line), the Aeroscope is fitted with a screw-in solid case back stamped with the “JR” logo. The advantage of course is that it gives the watch a water-resistance of 100 meters, which is quite good considering that the crown and pushers aren’t the screw-down type.

On the wrist is where you might be pleasantly surprised, as the 44mm case wears smaller than indicated given the fact that the case is in fact 44mm in width and around 42mm in length.

All in all I feel the Aeroscope is another strong collection from JEANRICHARD that rounds up the lineup nicely, and will likely appeal to a different group of watch-lovers than the simpler Terrascope.

Thanks for reading!

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Review: Glashutte Original Senator Panorama Date Moonphase by KEVIN GOODMAN

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It seems that around November or December our thoughts seem to gravitate towards the upcoming watch trade shows (SIHH and Basel) in Switzerland. Our anticipation harbors both hopes and fears. The hope that our favorites will be upgraded or the fear that the same favorite may be discontinued looms large at this time of the year.

Over the last few years Glashutte Original new releases have saddened but also rejuvenated GO collectors. The discontinuation of the rugged Sports Evo and Senator Navigator and Aviator lines disappointed many enthusiasts.

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These watches gave collectors the ability to own a handsome rugged sports watch from a luxury manufacturer (that option still remains from Breguet, AP, VC and others). The Sports Evo and Navigator if kept in production may have taken their place amongst other luxury sport watches. The facts are that Glashutte Original makes fantastic watches made by hand with dependable reliable and beautifully finished in house movements. They only make very few watches each year and in order to continue to deliver a quality product must limit the amount of references they have available. This could be part of the reason for discontinuing their sport models.

The disappointment of the sports lines being discontinued was replaced by enthusiasm for the new releases and changes made to the existing references. At the end of last year I was able to wear one of the 2013 releases, (Senator Panorama Date Moon Phase) for a week. Here are a few of my thoughts regarding this watch.

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A Classic Gets Updated

Movement

The Glashutte Original Senator Panorama Date Moonphase proves that for GO you can always improve on greatness. The heart of the watch stays the same as its predecessor which is the true in house caliber 100-04. This beautiful movement can still be viewed from the sapphire crystal case back.

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I found myself taking the watch off several times during the day to admire the finish of the movement along with the screw balance and swan neck regulator. The movement has a 55 hour power reserve which keeps it would for over two days. The watch was also extremely accurate and I noticed no more than a +3 seconds during the week I had the watch

Case

Although the movement has not changed, how you operate it has. The caliber 100-04 is a non hacking movement. For accuracy you can reset the second hand to zero with the use of a button integrated into the case. The previous model used a full sized button which gave the case an off balance appearance-the new hidden button is a welcome improvement and gives the case a cleaner appearance.

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The case is now 40 mm in diameter with both polished and brushed surfaces and is a comfortable fit on the wrist. The new larger case size I believe is on the high end for a watch of this caliber but it still looks and feels great on the wrist. The bezel has been reduced in size giving the watch a larger appearance due to more of the dial being exposed.

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The model I reviewed had a stainless steel case but the watch also come in red gold.

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Dial

The layout of the dial stays the same with the big date at 4 and the moon phase appearing between 10 and 11. Some of the dial features take their design from other members of the Senator family such as the Senator Chronometer.

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What I personally like about this is that it makes the Senator line more cohesive and makes each member of the family recognizable as a GO Senator.

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The lacquered silver dial now has a classic black railroad chapter ring for the minutes and deep black Roman numerals which are etched into the dial and are a nice addition to this stunning dial.

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The blued steel “poire” shaped hands are another feature that ties this watch to the rest of the Senator line. They replace the straight silver/gold hands on the previous model.

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Strap/Bracelet

The watch I had was on a matt black Louisiana alligator strap. The strap is padded and has an amazing fit and finish on the wrist. It is comfortable and compliant to the wrist straight from the box. The strap has a single deployment fold over clasp, which is a disappointment to those who long for the days of the GO double deployment clasp. The single gives the watch a better fit on the wrist but does present a couple of problems. The clasp is attached to the strap with a screw which makes it more secure but requires a screwdriver to make any adjustments. Depending on the shape of the wrist the clasp can make it harder to center the deployment on the back to the wrist.

The stainless steel version also comes with a bracelet if desired.

Closing Remarks

Glashutte Original has taken a great watch and made it even better. The changes are improvements on the previous model which was a strong performer for GO. The movement remains the same, the caliber 100-04 is great to look at and extremely accurate but the changes to the case, dial, hands and zero reset mechanism are a definite improvement.

I was not impressed by this watch but found myself being rather enthused by it. I was not impressed because it is a beautiful, accurate well made time piece-which I have come to expect from this brand. So my statement is somewhat tongue in cheek-the watch is another winner from GO! I am enthused by GO looking at ways to improve an existing line without being garish or ostentatious.

Now if I could only convince them to let me take this one out for a test drive

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Thank you to Glashutte Original for their support for this article

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