SIHH REPORT: Photos of the Baume & Mercier 2014 Collection

At this year’s SIHH, I had the chance to spend some time with the Director of the Design Studio at Baume & Mercier,
Alexandre Peraldi. The brand–which was founded in 1830–introduced new models into the Clifton line, which has been a big success for them.

prices are approximate and will be confirmed in the next month
Clifton Retrograde Date

43mm
$5,700
Caliber based upon the ETA 2892

The retrograde date complication is certainly a rarity at this price level.

Beautiful case lines

Tasteful rose gold accents, blued subdial hands, and classic design.

Clifton Chronograph

43mm
48hr power reserve
Exhibition case back
Valjoux 7750

$3800 on alligator strap

$3900 on a bracelet

Clifton Steel on Steel

41mm x 11.54mm
Automatic
$2900

30mm x 9.94mm
Automatic
$2700

A Quartz version is also available: $2250

Clifton Two-Tone

41mm Automatic
$4750 on bracelet
$3,850 on a brown leather strap

30mm Automatic
$3950 on bracelet

The booth featured an encompassing display of the contemporary lines with their vintage counterparts

CLIFTON

HAMPTON

And a grand leap upward in the

Clifton 1892 Flying Tourbillon
45.5mm
Manual wind caliber ValFleurier P591
Limited Edition of 30 pieces ($59,000)

In homage to the brand’s win of the timing trial in a tourbillon pocket watch at the Kew Observatory in London in 1892

You can read more about the Clifton line (and all of the Baume & Mercier watches on their website.

For more on the design process at Baume & Mercier, please click here.

And be sure to have a look at this terrific series on the process from the inside of Baume & Mercier, beginning with a segment with Mssr Peraldi himself.

Thank you to the team at Baume & Mercier for helping to bring these pieces to Timezone, and look forward to a new Ladies collection in June.

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topic locked. The other active SIHH thread is below

AP CEO Francois-Henry Bennahmias said in our interview a year ago that AP was focused on “Fewer, Bigger, Better”

That translates to getting the most out of a concise and powerful representation of the brand, from the boutiques to the retailers, from number of watch references to ambassadors.

Fewer, Bigger, Better.

In 2012, upon the 40th Anniversary of the Royal Oak, AP mounted a massive exhibition of over 100 timepieces reflecting the history of the iconic design, an exhibit that toured a number of cities around the globe.

The Royal Oak collection was revised that year, and the result was a more cohesive, “family-like” feel to the pieces and their common dial details, bracelets, clasps, etc. In addition, the 39mm 15300 Royal Oak became the 41mm 15400 Royal Oak, and the Royal Oak Chronograph also made the same transition in size, which combined with the new elements gave the Royal Oak line a bit more sporty feel.

They said this past year that the 2014 collection would also be a strengthening of the core pieces, as they aim to keep model references in the collection for 10 years or more. Fewer, Bigger, Better. AP wanted to fortify the Royal Oak collection for 2014, and will make 2015 a year of expansion.

The Royal Oak Offshore is this year’s primary focus, and the 42mm Offshore line–as we’ve already seen in a couple of earlier posts–received some design inspiration directly by the original Royal Oak Offshore from 1993.

There are four new references in stainless steel, and two in rose gold. These pieces replace the current line of 42mm Offshore Chronographs, which are now discontinued.

The new 42mm Royal Oak Offshore models will officially launch the 8th of April, at which time all of them will be available for sale.

The angles are crisp, the precision in the production quite evident.

The pushers and crown which have been rubber for 20 years are now presented in ceramic.

A new version of the Safari is here. Refined, with a very expressive dial

And a new version of the Navy, with its orange accents similar to those found in the 39mm Royal Oak Chronograph

In stainless steel, the new 42mm Offshore is $26,000 on a strap and $25,600 on rubber (Navy)

**ALL 42mm Offshores now come on AP tang buckles

The new 42mm Rose Gold Offshore models have a stunning dial

And the bracelet has been reworked into a thinner version closer to that found on the Royal Oak Chronograph
So in 2014, the Royal Oak and Offshore lines have truly solidified into a cohesive feel throughout

The new 42mm RG Offshore pieces are, respectively, $40,700 on a strap; $69,200 on rose gold bracelet

AP continues to further its exploration into materials, and has focused on achieving the ultimate level of finishing in ceramic

Does anyone see a parallel to the original Royal Oak introduction in 1972, a stainless steel watch with the finishing complexity of a precious metal? And here in the Offshore, a contemporary response to the role of protection expressed since 1993 by the visible rubber seals, pusher and crown. But AP being AP, they use a material only when they can elevate it to the level of fine artistry. Which is precisely what we see in the Offshore Diver in white ceramic

First, we saw the Diver in stainless steel
Then in forged carbon
Last year introduced in black ceramic, which is 7 times harder than steel
And this year in white ceramic, which is an impressive 9 times harder than steel. When you see these pieces in person, it’s hard to fathom the finely brushed bezels, which take 8 hours to finish by hand

With an exhibition case back, as all 42mm Offshore chronograph models now have.

Like the black ceramic model, the white ceramic piece will be boutique-only, and at the same $23,900
It is expected to become available in June

Pictured here with the 44mm Offshore Chronograph in white ceramic ($41,700)

And a 44mm Offshore Chronograph in black ceramic, which is updated from last year’s model

Next of the new pieces for 2014 is the AP Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon in titanium with a white ceramic bezel
We’ve seen the Concept piece evolve since its introduction just over 10 years ago, and it is now treated to the leading edge of
AP’s materials exploration

With a spectacular new 2930 movement from AP, and its hourglass-shaped bridge

Next is the Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph, which was previously available in rose gold with a forged carbon bezel
With a 10-day power reserve, we now have the piece in platinum with a ceramic bezel

And a slightly different case than the rose gold

Finishing out the men’s 2014 Novelty Collection is a magnificent piece made available in 2012 for the 40th Anniversary of the Royal Oak
Then a platinum model in a limited edition, here is the Royal Oak Openworked Extra-Thin now in Rose Gold

Hope you enjoyed these, and a special thank you to the team at AP for all of their help in bringing these to Timezone.

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PHOTO REPORT: Montblanc at SIHH 2014 by HOWARD PARR
Montblanc is a luxury goods company based in Hamburg, Germany with a rich history most notably in pens and leather goods. In 2006, the young Montblanc watch company made a serious statement to the industry when the Richemont Group purchased heralded watchmaker Minerva and they became the supplier of exclusive movements to Montblanc. Minerva was founded in 1858 in Villeret, and it was the topic of much discussion at SIHH.

Under the direction of recently appointed CEO Jerome Lambert–who previously served as CEO of Richemont’s A. Lange & Sohne and Jaeger-LeCoultre–the presentation of Montblanc watchmaking was notably different this year. Last year’s booth was compartmentalized, and dark enough to make picture-taking a real challenge. This year, the booth was open, with watchmaking history front and center.

As Mssr. Lambert passed through the booth, we exchanged a few words, and there was that familiar energy that he had brought to the other brands. And a long line of journalists waiting to speak with him about the intrigue encircling the brand

The highlight of this year’s collection from Montblanc was the Meisterstück Heritage Collection, which features one of the most talked about pieces at the show, the Heritage Pulsograph.

A 41mm manually-wound monopusher chronograph with a radiant dial

In celebration of the 90 years since the pen and movement were first introduced, there are 90 pieces in this Limited Edition

The Meisterstück collection ranges from $2000 to $38,000. This rose gold Pulsograph is $34,500

The Meisterstück series is the formal celebration of the Meisterstück Montblanc fountain pen 149, which debuted in 1924,
and the renowned Minerva caliber 13.20–which was first encased in 1923–and used in the caliber 13.21 here in the Pulsograph

Until now, Montblanc owned Minerva. With this piece, the two companies make the statement that they are one.
“Minerva Villeret” to denote high-end watchmaking, this is not your pen company’s watch

It should also be noted that a variant of this caliber (13.22) was deployed in another high impact range at this year’s show, the Panerai 1940 Radiomir Limited Edition Chronographs. Minerva has history with Panerai going back to the 1920s, but that relationship has been dormant in the minds of collectors. Until this year, when no one at the show mentioned the Panerai chronographs without an emphasis on the Minerva caliber, and the subliminal tie-in with the Montblanc Pulsograph was inescapable. Credit Mssr Lambert and the folks at Montblanc, who brought their A-game to Geneva.

Another hit in the Meisterstück line is the Perpetual Calendar, which frankly brought a lot of head shaking.
As in “how did they do it?”

An automatic powered by the MB Caliber 29.15, this 39mm perpetual is…get this…

$12,800 in stainless steel
$21,600 in pink gold

In addition to a Moonphase piece, the line also includes the classic Heritage Date Automatic

The Timewalker Collection celebrates its 10th anniversary, and is showcased this year with the Extreme Chronograph DLC

Featuring the Calibre MB 4810/507 housed in a 43mm DLC-treated case, with a most innovative strap construction that conjoins leather and rubber, and is both waterproof and abrasion-resistant

Time was unfortunately limited, so I couldn’t photograph all of the brand’s new offerings, but you can read more about them here

Thank you to Paula and to the folks at Montblanc for everything!

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PHOTO REPORT: Jaeger-LeCoultre Novelties at SIHH 2014 by HOWARD PARR

The 2014 additions to the Jaeger-LeCoultre collection were once again received with much applause, as they continue to
showcase the design and technology that is their true forte

The most complex of the new pieces was the Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon

The watch is a mere 7.9mm in overall height, carries 8 patents, has 471 components, and includes such features as a retractable push-button actuator, a peripheral rotor, a flying tourbillon with inverted hairspring, and the brand’s patented attachment of the repeater gongs to the sapphire crystal itself. Most interesting is the mechanism, which eliminates the usual delay between the hours->quarter hours->minutes chiming segments, thereby reducing the overall actuation to a fraction of the typical duration.

This piece was in the display case only, so unfortunately we’ll have to wait until later in the year to get some live pics.
In the meantime, this video offers a display of this masterpiece

Since the 80th anniversary of the Reverso in 2011, Jaeger-LeCoultre has produced a number of Reverso models in Tribute to some of its earliest versions. This year we see the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin “Chocolate”, a rose gold homage to a Reverso from 1934.

And shown with its vintage inspiration

The Reverso “Chocolate” ($18,800) comes with both a dark brown crocodile strap, as well as a handmade cordovan strap from the famed Argentine polo boot maker, Casa Fagliano.

Continuing with the Reverso Ultra Thin, new for this year is a remarkable Grande Reverso Night & Day

Housed in the same case dimensions as the other Ultra Thin models (27.4mm by 46.8mm), JLC has incorporated its 967B caliber automatic movement into this classic design. Even with the automatic movement, the watch is only 9.14mm thick.

Available in both stainless steel ($9,750) and pink gold ($19,200)

With solid case back for personalization

The Master series also has several Ultra Thin models introduced this year, including the
Master Ultra Thin 1907, which was previously released as the Limited Edition Jubilee model
The 39mm watch was not available to be photographed, so here is the press pic of this “knife-edged” ultra thin marvel,
which measures all of 4.05mm in overall height

And a wrist shot of the Jubilee version in platinum

 photo e8aa052ee1bee1df8b3413221f15cb66.jpg

The Master Ultra Thin “Grand Feu” with enamel dial
is also 39mm, houses the caliber 849, and will be photographed live in the coming months. It is only slightly thicker
than the 1907, at 5.04mm

The Master Ultra Thin Date ($16,700) comes in pink gold only, and measures 40mm x 7.4mm

The Master Ultra Thin is a stunning automatic with the caliber 896, and measures 38.5mm x 7.6mm

It too is available in both SS ($8500)

and pink gold ($15,200)

The sport segment of the Jaeger-LeCoultre collection receives one new addition in the
Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic ($15,600)

This piece is water resistant to 100m and has a power reserve of 65 hours.
It features a second time zone and Day/Night indicator

Finally, a couple of expansions in the Duometre line

The Unique Travel Time ($46,300), which was introduced last year as a Limited Edition in white gold, and now available in pink gold

The 42mm Duometre UTT showcases a jumping hour for the second time zone, a map of the world, and a dimensional globe with relation-to-GMT indication

With patented dual wing winding system

The Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire–previous winner of Timezone Watch of the Year–was introduced last year in a smaller, 40.5mm case size

This year, that same watch is now available in white gold, and with “grand feu” enamel dial ($62,500)

Thank you for reading the Jaeger-LeCoultre Novelties at SIHH 2014 photo report!

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From SIHH: Photo report of the Audemars Piguet 2014 Novelties by HOWARD PARR

AP CEO Francois-Henry Bennahmias said in our interview a year ago that AP was focused on “Fewer, Bigger, Better”

That translates to getting the most out of a concise and powerful representation of the brand, from the boutiques to the retailers, from number of watch references to ambassadors.

Fewer, Bigger, Better.

In 2012, upon the 40th Anniversary of the Royal Oak, AP mounted a massive exhibition of over 100 timepieces reflecting the history of the iconic design, an exhibit that toured a number of cities around the globe.

The Royal Oak collection was revised that year, and the result was a more cohesive, “family-like” feel to the pieces and their common dial details, bracelets, clasps, etc. In addition, the 39mm 15300 Royal Oak became the 41mm 15400 Royal Oak, and the Royal Oak Chronograph also made the same transition in size, which combined with the new elements gave the Royal Oak line a bit more sporty feel.

They said this past year that the 2014 collection would also be a strengthening of the core pieces, as they aim to keep model references in the collection for 10 years or more. Fewer, Bigger, Better. AP wanted to fortify the Royal Oak collection for 2014, and will make 2015 a year of expansion.

The Royal Oak Offshore is this year’s primary focus, and the 42mm Offshore line–as we’ve already seen in a couple of earlier posts–received some design inspiration directly by the original Royal Oak Offshore from 1993.

There are four new references in stainless steel, and two in rose gold. These pieces replace the current line of 42mm Offshore Chronographs, which are now discontinued.

The new 42mm Royal Oak Offshore models will officially launch the 8th of April, at which time all of them will be available for sale.

The angles are crisp, the precision in the production quite evident.

The pushers and crown which have been rubber for 20 years are now presented in ceramic.

A new version of the Safari is here. Refined, with a very expressive dial

And a new version of the Navy, with its orange accents similar to those found in the 39mm Royal Oak Chronograph

In stainless steel, the new 42mm Offshore is $26,000 on a strap and $25,600 on rubber (Navy)

**ALL 42mm Offshores now come on AP tang buckles

The new 42mm Rose Gold Offshore models have a stunning dial

And the bracelet has been reworked into a thinner version closer to that found on the Royal Oak Chronograph
So in 2014, the Royal Oak and Offshore lines have truly solidified into a cohesive feel throughout

The new 42mm RG Offshore pieces are, respectively, $40,700 on a strap; $69,200 on rose gold bracelet

AP continues to further its exploration into materials, and has focused on achieving the ultimate level of finishing in ceramic

Does anyone see a parallel to the original Royal Oak introduction in 1972, a stainless steel watch with the finishing complexity of a precious metal? And here in the Offshore, a contemporary response to the role of protection expressed since 1993 by the visible rubber seals, pusher and crown. But AP being AP, they use a material only when they can elevate it to the level of fine artistry. Which is precisely what we see in the Offshore Diver in white ceramic

First, we saw the Diver in stainless steel
Then in forged carbon
Last year introduced in black ceramic, which is 7 times harder than steel
And this year in white ceramic, which is an impressive 9 times harder than steel. When you see these pieces in person, it’s hard to fathom the finely brushed bezels, which take 8 hours to finish by hand

With an exhibition case back, as all 42mm Offshore chronograph models now have.

Like the black ceramic model, the white ceramic piece will be boutique-only, and at the same $23,900
It is expected to become available in June

Pictured here with the 44mm Offshore Chronograph in white ceramic ($41,700)

And a 44mm Offshore Chronograph in black ceramic, which is updated from last year’s model

Next of the new pieces for 2014 is the AP Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon in titanium with a white ceramic bezel
We’ve seen the Concept piece evolve since its introduction just over 10 years ago, and it is now treated to the leading edge of
AP’s materials exploration

With a spectacular new 2930 movement from AP, and its hourglass-shaped bridge

Next is the Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph, which was previously available in rose gold with a forged carbon bezel
With a 10-day power reserve, we now have the piece in platinum with a ceramic bezel

And a slightly different case than the rose gold

Finishing out the men’s 2014 Novelty Collection is a magnificent piece made available in 2012 for the 40th Anniversary of the Royal Oak
Then a platinum model in a limited edition, here is the Royal Oak Openworked Extra-Thin now in Rose Gold

Hope you enjoyed these, and a special thank you to the team at AP for all of their help in bringing these to Timezone.

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Live at SIHH: Audemars Piguet 42mm Offshore Chronographs

As I mentioned below, there are 4 new Offshore Chronograph references in stainless steel. We’ll talk about these more in the weeks to come, but suffice it to say that this year was one of organic evolution for AP. You may recall in the interview I did with company CEO Francois-Henry Bennahmias last year that AP would focus heavily on fewer yet stronger. A quiet–or what Octavio Garcia referred to as “restrained”–year in 2014, and then some more expansion in 2015. AP has done an exceptional job this past year in fortifying the core line, concentrating on necessary production and support of existing models, and this year bringing the Offshore line closer to its roots.

2012: The Royal Oak became a ‘family’ collection, with bracelets, clasps and dials that brought the line into a more harmonious and consistent design throughout. Whereas the 15202, 15300 and Royal Oak Chronograph previously walked separate paths, they were suddenly as of 2012 (the 40th Anniversary of the Royal Oak) relatable to one another. The Royal Oak also gained clarity by now having only the 15202 and 15305 skeleton as 39mm models, and the 15400 and Royal Oak Chronographs were brought to 41mm. In simple terms, a gentleman’s watch infused with a bit more sport presence. Based on the extremely strong demand in the market, the changes were welcomed.

The other thing that occurred was a tightening of the corporate message. New advertising campaigns for men and ladies, and a lot of effort to make sure the end client–that’s us–was getting a consistent message and experience of the brand. They will continue to strengthen this effort, but it has certainly become crystallized in the last couple of years. From the brand retail corners and boutiques to the information passing from AP through me to you, there is a lot more clarity. Not easy to do when your representatives and information sources are scattered throughout the world. However, that clarity has been carried through to this year’s collection, and that’s why I found it so impressive.

We see a simple and natural massaging of the Offshore line, as though it is refreshed without a 20-year existence. Its history is condensed into a clear and concise message: It is, first and foremost, a Royal Oak.

The 2014 collection is a manifestation of AP’s introspective brand clarity. Whereas the Royal Oak adopted a dose of sport presence in 2012, the 42mm Offshore line this year gets an elevated dose of refinement. They are sporty as ever, but the additional contrasts in the dials, the ceramic (not rubber) pushers and crown, the sharp lines of the pusher guards…these all help add a little more expressiveness to the line. And all of them with exhibition case backs. They effectively link the contemporary with the familiar, the Royal Oak and the Offshore having taken each a small step toward one another.

The relationship between the models is stronger than ever, and once we have looked at the collection as a whole, you can see the residual effect of one reference to another. It’s as if they all fell out of the same mold. And they did…the Royal Oak.

Right down to the redesigned bracelet of the new Rose Gold Offshore. It’s thinner than in the previous version, and now closer to that of the Royal Oak Chronograph.

Clearly, the family has been harmonized even more.

Enjoy….

More to come!

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A couple weeks back, we said goodnight to the forever lights of New York City

And rose early the next day for the umpteenth edition of the Timezone Watch Walk NYC.

Let’s get to steppin’

We’ve been leading Watch Walk NYC for five years, and will likely have to stagger groups going forward, as we had a wait list within hours!

We began at Audemars Piguet, where we have the past several years, as the entire boutique staff kindly comes in an hour early just for our group.

They awakened our day with champagne, coffee, and a beautiful spread of breakfast delectables

And the boutique was impeccable

Of course, we tried on some spectacular watches, some of which were brought in for us

The rarely seen AP Concept Tourbillon

The recently launched LeBron James LE in rose gold/titanium

The Royal Oak 15450 37mm in rose gold on the wrist of boutique Manager Goly Noghrey

The Jules Audemars ChronAp with AP Escapement

Millenary 4101 in SS and rose gold

Some of the group were also wearing APs

The Rubens Barrichello 2 LE in Titanium

Action shot

Royal Oak Equation of Time

We were able to handle the brand new Offshore Diver in ceramic, which caused quite a stir. It’s that impressive in person

Next stop, IWC.

If you have not been to the IWC Boutique on Madison Avenue, you must. They’ve constructed what feels essentially like an apartment for a WIS, a watch-lover’s cave on steroids, complete with lifestyle settings that take commodity out of the equation, and leave you with a sense of what it’s like to wear the brand.

You literally have to comb the boutique to be sure you don’t miss a thing. Watches are set between books, pilot gear, and inspirational props of all sorts.

The Deep Two doesn’t get enough airtime on the discussion forums. This muscular Aquatimer is a powerhouse

The Big Ingenieur line is equally as impressive

Some of the group also wore IWCs, including the discontinued hallmark, the 3227 Ingenieur

The forever classic Portuguese Chrono

Next stop on the tour, Girard-Perregaux

Where Timezone’s Adam Craniotes played bartender and served up the mimosas.

And the wonderful staff gave us an up-front look at the watch that just this week took home top prize at the Grand Prix of Watchmaking in Geneva, the Constant Escapement

Any questions? The watch is a marvel.

You can read more this top prize winner here

We were also treated to the new GP integrated, column wheel chronograph, with a close-up tour from the GP watchmaker himself

And of course, to all of the model lines

We continued up Madison Avenue for a visit with FP Journe

Where they too spoiled the group with delicious pastries

And legendary watchmaking

The stunning Octa UTC

Final stop of the day was with our friends at Wempe, where the champagne flowed once more

And we caught a look at the new Nomos World Time made for New York

There we go again, trying on watches

A VC Overseas Chrono with blue dial? Irresistible…

Patek Philippe 5960P

PP 5980…love this one!

A window of JLCs

Glashutte Original

And a leisurely walk home

A big thank you to AP, IWC, GP, FP Journe and to Wempe for so graciously hosting our group. The hospitality was extraordinary as always, and impressed at least one of us to buy a new watch on the way home.

Watch Walk NYC is a very special outing for me, as it helps so many to form lasting relationships with the people who bring us these magical timepieces. A mix of elegance…

And camaraderie

And no one lights that flame better than Adam Craniotes, who also helped organize Walk Walk NYC.

Not too shabby with a pen either…

Thank you for reading, and a special thank you to everyone who came along. It was the best!

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A. Lange & Söhne Akademie in Napa

Howard Parr


11 September 2013

Every year, a group of collectors and press are invited to participate in the Lange Akademie in Napa, California. My wife and I joined the group this past week, where we were treated to wine and food the equal of Lange & Sohne. As part of the visit, we also had an extensive presentation on the history of the brand, had the opportunity to try our hand at some engraving and servicing techniques, and of course handled many of the brand’s current collection of spectacular watches.

The weather was late summer warm, and off we go….

The lobby of the Meadowood resort was fittingly adorned with Lange catalogs, and some fine watchmaking books

The first night we had dinner at the Napa Valley Reserve, a club whose superb wines are available only to its members.

The setting was stunning, which pretty well describes every moment of the weekend…

Our viticulture education for the weekend was the ever passionate Master Sommelier Gilles de Chambure, who for three days and nights drew easy parallels with Lange watchmaking.

It can take 15 years to yield a suitable crop from a planted field. Patience, passion, perhaps even compulsion.

Here is Gilles speaking about the qualities of French Oak

After the cellars, we had the chance to tour the grounds

And sample some fine champagne

And of course, excellent food

Over the weekend, we visited three estate wineries, which are extremely rare these days. Estate wineries manage the entire winemaking process–planting to bottling–on their own property. They don’t source grapes, crush them elsewhere, or enlist a bottling service. It’s the winemaking version of entirely in-house.

Gilles gave us a history of the Napa Valley which believe it or not produces only 4% of the wine produced in California.
**The state of California produces 80% of the wine produced in the US.

Many a household name owns a vineyard in the Napa Valley.
From Mondavi to Coppola, from the Gambles (of Proctor & Gamble) to the Swansons (of Swanson Foods).

First stop on our tour, Gargiulo Vineyards…

With the annual grape crush approaching, crews everywhere worked to cultivate and separate the best of the crop…

The view was breathtaking

Before the wine tasting, we had fresh grape juice from Chardonnay grapes…

Kick up your feet and sit all day

Vineyard owner Jeff Gargiulo played some blues, with superb accompaniment from our own Dave Vargo and Chris Hislop from Lange.

Jeff has an extensive collection of vintage guitars, and as it happens, he was playing with country music star Tim McGraw the following night.

The wine was outstanding, and of course many of us went home with some.

Imagine waking to this each morning…

Our next stop on the vineyard tour was the Martin Estate, which sits on 12 acres behind an unmarked gate, which itself was the catalyst in their initiation to winemaking.

After their home was completed, the Martins put up a gate that was apparently too high for county regulations on residential properties. So rather than install a shorter gate, they went commercial and became winemakers.

We were toured the beautiful property, with our sommelier Gilles and Greg Martin leading the way…

…as we ate grapes

and circled back their home.

Which can only be described as a living museum

Where the Martins have assembled precious antiques as many as 500 years old.

Swords from the War of 1812

Greg, Petra and their daughter Greta Martin hosted an al fresco lunch for our group. And once again, we were absolutely shocked by the caliber of the food and wine.

Here is Greg with Gilles de Chambure…

As if that wasn’t enough, the Martins then pulled out the stops with a sampling of their Martin Estate Gold, a dessert wine in the vein of a French Sauternes. This was only the third time they had ever produced the wine, which had a natural–rather than syrupy–sweetness, and an earthy quality of a vintage French champagne.

Our final stop was the Viader Winery, owned by Delia Viader, and her three (now adult) children. Delia has more university degrees than most tenured professors, and was the first in the Napa Valley to plant their 100% organic vines up the hillside to track the sun’s path.

Apparently, she was onto something, because Delia–known as the “Queen of Cabernet Franc” placed their proprietary blend in the top-100 wines in the world, according to the Wine Spectator.

Wine and Watches…a natural pairing

Which brings us to Lange.

As many of you know, Lange was founded in 1845, but after World War II, there was a 45-year gap in its existence. From 1945-1990, the watchmaking companies of Glassutte became part of a state-owned company that produced pieces that are nowhere near the caliber of Lange watchmaking today.

For more on the history and evolution of A. Lange & Sohne, you may want to re-visit my report of my Lange factory visit from June.

Tools of the trade…

During our visit in Napa, we had the chance to handle many of the watches from Lange, and frankly there’s not much to say. They’re flat-out phenomenal…

Richard Lange Tourbillon Pour le Merite

Grande Lange 1 Lumen, a 100-piece Limited Edition announced this year

And a Lange 1 reversal of sorts, in the Daymatic. A Lange 1 dial reversed, with day indicator, 1mm larger case, and an automatic movement.

Zeitwerk Striking Time.

Datograph Up/Down

The 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar

The new 1815 Up/Down

The 1815 Chronograph

Saxonia

Lange 1 in Platinum


Lange 1 Timezone in white gold

Saxonia Annual Calendar…my wife is dreaming of this one!

Some very special pieces amongst our group…

The new Lange Perpetual Tourbillon

One from the 25-piece edition of the Datograph in yellow gold

And the now discontinued Datograph on the ultra rare platinum bracelet

Grande Lange 1 Luminous

Zeitwerk Striking Time

I want to thank Master Sommelier Gilles de Chambure for infusing his love for wine as a perfect parallel to our love for watches. As someone in our group said, “Gilles is so passionate he would have prohibitionists drinking wine in no time.”

Thank you to all of the wineries who opened their doors to our group. And to our group itself. We all became fast friends, and this was of course enhanced by the graciousness of our hosts…Lange & Sohne.

To Kate, Chris, Gaetan, Alex, Joanna, Simona and all of the people at this wonderfully friendly brand…THANK YOU!

It was truly a memorable weekend of fine watches and fine wine.

From Napa, hope you enjoyed that!

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A TimeZone Interview with Audemars Piguet CEO François-Henry Bennahmias

An interview in February 2013 by Howard Parr

In conjunction with the 40th Anniversary of the Royal Oak last year, Audemars Piguet set out to do some deep self-examination. That may sound complex, but in truth the result was a simplification of the message. From a revamped logo and new marketing tagline (“To Break the Rules, You Must First Master Them”), to consistency across the range of the 2012 novelties, and heightened effort to solidify the customer experience.

The brand has been noticeably clarifying its message and its product.

This year we saw a reduction in the number of pieces introduced at SIHH, which follows this same tact. We were also left with a number of questions, which became apparent Internet-wide. In light of much speculation floating around the Web, I requested an interview with AP in order to clarify the goings on.

Newly appointed CEO François-Henry Bennahmias invited me to meet with him this week in New York to address those very questions, and here is that interview.

TimeZone (TZ): You have recently moved from CEO of the Americas to CEO of Audemars Piguet. Congratulations again.

François-Henry Bennahmias (FHB): Thank you

TZ: Audemars Piguet has been working hard on clarifying the message from headquarters to the end client. It shows up in the marketing, the appearance of displays, boutique branding, and the watches themselves. Perhaps you can comment on how this carries forward under your direction.

FHB: I could summarize it in three words: Fewer, Bigger, Better. Which means over the last 5-7 years, we became a little too easy on ourselves. Too many Limited pieces, too many similar watches. So, we have had to do some serious homework. We decided to slow down, reduce the number of references, reposition the collection, and look at which models could sustain for the next 10 years or more.

A pattern developed. We would see a big buzz on new watches, and then people were waiting for the “next big one” a year or two later. We want to build business by being more consistent with the message, the models, the collection itself. It’s certainly not a blank page, but rather more of a cleansing.

We’re doing something unique among manufacturers. We are buying back inventory that has not moved in a while from the retailers, which will help strengthen their existing inventory. We have also lowered prices on some of the precious metal pieces. Over the last 3-4 years, the cost of precious metals has increased dramatically. Consequently, so have all costs. We expect to sell a watch for more than a few years prior, but there is a point where it’s too much, and it doesn’t work.

TZ: It seems to be working really well now, no?

FHB: Now, yes. But there is a point where you have no room for sustained growth. Not just in terms of price, but in terms of the significance of the models. You don’t want to leave a watch insignificant, and the planning and solutions need time to play out.

There are possibilities for growth specifically in precious metal sport watches. And to play effectively in the marketplace, we have to make some adjustments. We determined it was best to do this now. This affected only a small number of references, and on an average there was a 15% reduction on those models. Some more, some less, but that is the precise average.

TZ: And it does not include any Limited Editions?

FHB: No, we didn’t touch those.


Royal Oak Offshore Michael Schumacher LE in Rose Gold

TZ: Some have asked about accommodations for those who recently bought these pieces.

FHB: People have to do what they think is right, period. We are not the only ones who sell our watches. We have some solutions for our own boutique customers–we know what they paid for the watches–and retailers know what they need to do with their customers. They capably handle their own businesses A-to-Z, just as they always do.

TZ: So the goal is specific, not speculative?

FHB: We had to look at last year’s launch of the 37mm Royal Oak, the 41mm Royal Oak, the Royal Oak Chronograph, the Extra Thin Royal Oak. The overall reception was unbelievable. Except, with feedback from clients and retailers, we took a close look and agreed that a number of precious metal pieces were high enough that we could see 2 to 3 years down the road having to introduce new models just to maintain momentum. Not good for anyone. These models were very well received. They have lasting power. We don’t want to replace them so quickly.

Don’t forget, every time we stop a model every 2 or 3 years, the cost of re-tooling a new model, new hands, new crown, new dial, etc. is outrageous. When you consider that the Royal Oak has grown for a 40 year period, it’s crazy to turn through models so quickly when a great 41mm watch has every right to be in the collection for 10 years or more.

Of course, there is room for a special Offshore, or 40th Anniversary Royal Oak, but the core collection is an enduring one, and we need to support it. We are committed to a message of quality and consistency, so this is integral to what we are doing.

TZ: You could see this in this year’s novelties. Some beautiful Ladies models, a few Grand Complications and only a couple of new Offshores.

FHB: Fewer. Bigger. Better. Which is why in 2014 we’ll see fewer Offshore models, and will continue to reduce the number of references. We have to be able to deliver the watches to our customers, and some struggle to find them because we simply have too many references to maintain consistency.

We have two years of “cleansing”, if you will, and come 2015 we’ll be in a good position to stretch a bit.


Royal Oak Offshore Michael Schumacher in Titanium with Cermet Bezel

TZ: Does this include discontinuing the Rubber Clad?

FHB: The Rubber Clad will continue for a little while, and then we’ll see it re-imagined. It has been very successful for us, but it’s been the same watch for a long time. It’s going to be time to do something a bit different, and so in time we’ll see this.

TZ: How about the blue dialed 41mm Royal Oak and Royal Oak Chronograph? Are they now boutique-only?

FHB: Yes, confirmed. And for a simple reason. We cannot make the exact same quantities of the three dials, because of materials access, production scheduling, etc. We simply can’t. So we chose to maintain standard production of the black and white dial models, and instead of going through the process of choosing who gets what from a lower production of blue dialed models, we are simply selling the blue dial versions through the boutiques.


Royal Oak 15400

TZ: And what about Forged Carbon? We’re told no changes for 2013, and keep posting this, but the word ‘discontinued’ keeps popping up around the Internet

FHB: I don’t know where this came from. I can officially say that Forged Carbon is not going anywhere. It has been a very successful material for us. We were first to market with it. We are not stopping Forged Carbon.

And we are always looking at other materials, which leads me back to the “Better” part of our goals. Forged Carbon has been important for us, and it will remain so.


Royal Oak Offshore Diver in ceramic

TZ: How does your goal of “Better” affect your relationship with the retailer network?

FHB: Same as the watches. We have been dealing with quantity over the years, and we need to focus on quality. At every level, and in everything we do. It’s a huge challenge, but this also puts the retailers in a stronger position. We’re spending an extraordinary amount to buy back inventory that has not moved for them. The pricing is positioned for sustainability, and moving forward we are more competitive.

There are maybe 5 to 7 brands who can generate more than $2 Million in annual revenue per door (point of sale), and we are one of them. The concept is proven, and thankfully we have many wanting to become Audemars Piguet retailers. Looking ahead 10 years, we will bring the brand to another level as we have the past 10 years, and the retailers will be pleased. We are not going away from the retailer network, and we could even open stores with the retailers.

The bottom line is we care more about this partnership than ever before, and it means looking ahead. Not just for a sale, or this week. A year, 5 years, 10 years. We are all answering the same question. “Who are we marrying for the long term?”

TZ: Quality over quantity, with the collection and your relationships?

FHB: It’s always about relationship. Always, always, always. And we can improve the collective benefit if we are working toward the same goals.

In 1999, I came to the US and we were doing $6 Million in revenue, with 95 doors (points of sale). We are now at 39 doors, and we just broke $100 Million in sales for the year. What does this say?

TZ: Quality product, sold by quality people, spells luxury.

FHB: REAL luxury. True luxury is the experience that goes with the product. It is not an amount.

TZ:Thank you very much for taking the time to address these questions , and congratulations again on your new role at AP.

FHB: Thank you!

© Timezone. All rights reserved.

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Inspired by a classic Baume & Mercier timepiece from the 50s, this new 42 mm dress watch is a stunner. There are a number of models in the Clifton collection, and the 18-carat rose gold emblematic model is powered by a beautiful La Joux-Perret manual-wind movement.

All are perfectly suited to the brand’s commitment to being “timeless and affordable”

Another desirable model is the complete calendar

Altogether, a winning collection from a winning brand… well done with the Clifton!

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Last year, we saw the release of the Deep Sea Vintage Chronograph and Deep Sea Auto Chronograph

This year’s releases include two versions of a larger 44mm Deep Sea Chronograph (the Vintage is 40.5mm, the Auto is 42mm), with a case in Cermet, a ceramic alloy that makes the watch exceptionally light, while being more shock resistant and less prone to scratching.

The Boutique version of the watch (not shown here) has a patina’d look to the hands and indices, while this is the standard production model

The circular window below the Jaeger-LeCoultre logo turns half red/half white while the chronograph is running, fully red when it is stopped, and fully white when returned to zero.

Working from the dial inferences of the Reverso Tribute to 1931 model in WG (which shares this same rectangular sub-seconds subdial we see for this year a new Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Duoface

Over 1mm thinner than the previous Duo, with new dial design elements, this is a stunning piece offered in pink gold

…as well as in stainless steel

With second time zone featured on the reverse side, this watch features two robust calibers running in opposite directions.

Notice also how the case pusher (for second time zone) is now rounded so it better integrates into the case.

The 200-piece boutique-only edition of the Duoface features a rich blue dial that must be seen in person. The reverse face is in white and the case is also in stainless steel. The watch comes with both a crocodile and a Casa Fagliano strap.

With the simplest purity, we find the new Master Ultra Thin 41

…as in 41mm Ultra Thin automatic

A face-lifted Master Calendar, the biggest selling model in the Master Control line

Sharing the same movement as the Tourbillon that won which won the first “International Chronometry Competition” in 2009, here is the new Master Dualtime Tourbillon

Which jumps from the 15th to 16th of the month so the view of the tourbillon is never obscured.

Setting the record for longest model name is the Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique a Quantieme Perpetuel Jubilee

In honor of the 180th Anniversary of Jaeger-LeCoultre, we see the Jubilee celebrated in this Limited Edition of 180 pieces.

And for the live pics!

The rotor carries the image of the 1889 Gold Medal won by the brand in Paris

One of my favorites from the entire show, the Ladies Rendez-Vous Celestial, with rotating celestial sky, and personal “rendez-vous” alarm

With new caliber 809

37.5mm, White Gold

And one of the most exciting releases in years…the world’s thinnest manual wind wristwatch in terms of overall height – the Master Ultra Thin Jubilee

Thin enough?

A Limited Edition of 880 pieces, 39mm case, in Extra White Platinum. Price anticipated at around 13500 Euros, but your retailer or JLC Boutique will confirm. The movement is only 1.85mm thin!

Also assembled in the Grande Complications department, due to the difficulty in the task. This Ultra Thin is rated to 50mm water resistance, which necessitated the solid caseback, as the parts are so thin. In fact you’re looking at a knife edge case, which is misleading because the bezel mates directly with the caseback. In other words, there is no case!

Stunning piece!

And finally, the newest edition to the Gyrotourbillon line, the Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3, a flying tourbillon with a single-pusher, chronograph digital minute counter

Which can be purchased as a 3-watch Jubilee set

Which comes with a uniquely designed deployment with slider, in order to gain that perfect fit on the wrist

With Jaeger-LeCoultre logo on the clasp

The dial has two distinct axis planes, with the vertical line drawing the timekeeping and tourbillon points of center slightly to the right of middle

Truly a breathtaking masterpiece!

Hope you enjoyed these, and a big thank you to everyone at Jaeger-LeCoultre for providing the novelties and the information to go with them!

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2013 is the 20th Anniversary of the Royal Oak Offshore, and there are a number of notables in this year’s releases.

Two big releases this year come in ceramic. The brand has been interested in working in ceramic for some time, but it was not until the level of finishing achieved with the Legacy LE (the last of the Offshore series with Schwarzenegger) that encouraged them to bring the material to production models.

The Offshore Diver first appeared in 2010, in stainless steel.

A forged carbon version was introduced last year.

This year, we see the Offshore Diver in ceramic.

And for the first time, with exhibition caseback…and still rated to 300 meters

As well, a 44mm Offshore Chronograph in ceramic

The forged carbon equivalent models will fully transition to their ceramic counterparts, but all forged carbon pieces currently offered will continue production in 2013

We’ve seen one-off editions of the Offshore Perpetual before, including the limited Restivo. This year, we see a limited series of three pieces, with some new dial design elements.

In Titanium:

In Rose Gold:

And in Platinum:

PT and Ti together

Since its founding in 1875, Audemars Piguet has made a Grande Complication every year. Even in the leanest years of a worldwide Depression, when in 1932 they produced exactly one watch, it was a Grande Comp. Every Grande Comp produced at Audemars Piguet is assembled three times before delivery.

First, the movement is assembled for functionality. Once all functions are tested, the movement is disassembled and then hand-finished. It is re-assembled and again tested for operation, as well as confirming the visual qualities of the finishing. It is disassembled again, more finishing is done, and the 648-part watch is at last fully assembled and tested once more. This entire process takes one watchmaker approximately six months.

For 2013, we see the skeletonized Grande Comp, which combines a Perpetual Calendar, Minute Repeater, and split-second Chronograph.

In Titanium/Ceramic and Rose Gold (not pictured):

Also new for this year is a complication trio we have previously seen in the Jules Audemars line, and now in the Tradition model line. Audemars Piguet is possibly the only company to combine a Minute Repeater, Tourbillon and Chronograph, a combination requiring complex movement design due to the amount of space occupied by the Tourbillon.

This year’s SIHH offered a remarkable number of releases in Ladies watches. Audemars Piguet and several other brands concentrated significantly on them, with a number of new pieces in both the Royal Oak and Jules Audemars lines.

Jules Audemars Ultra Thin with diamond set

Powered by the legendary 2120 movement

This 41mm piece has been offered for the past couple of years in both white and rose gold, and many of its buyers have been women.

Jules Audemars Automatic

With the superb 3120 movement:

Several manual wind Jules Audemars pieces:

Tradition with Mother of Pearl dial (also offered in Rose Gold without diamonds):

Hope you enjoyed!

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Viva México: the 2012 SIAR Watch Fair

Howard Parr

7 October 2012

Earlier this week, I went to the SIAR (Salon Internacional Alta Relojeria) in Mexico City. This was the 6th Edition of the watch fair, and included the most exhibitors yet…44 brands!

Most of the brands had scheduled presentations throughout the show, and I was asked to moderate the presentation from Audemars Piguet. Company board member (and founding family descendant) Olivier Audemars came from Switzerland along with Chief Artistic Director (a/k/a head of AP’s watch and branding design) Octavio Garcia. Rather than give a talk, they preferred a more relaxed and informal open interview, as it were, so I was asked to facilitate this. More on the presentation can be found on the AP forum HERE

First off, let me just say that anyone who can attend the SIAR Watch Fair really ought to go. The intimate Salon is held on two floors of the Four Seasons Hotel in Mexico City. Stay there, enjoy the overwhelming hospitality of the staff, and some of the world’s finest watch browsing is literally an elevator ride from your room.


The brand executives at the opening of the Salon

I made a point of visiting every manufacturer several times, and they were universally jubilant about the SIAR, with one brand exec going so far as to say it is one of his favorite watch fairs in the world. Why? “Because every request in terms of our setup is accommodated. And because the public is so knowledgeable and engaged.”

*And it should be noted that all entrance fees for the fair are donated to the Red Cross.

Some brands shared suites, others created a virtual brand boutique on their own. Two entire floors of the hotel were transformed into one very intimate setting. Want to speak with Richard Mille? Right through that door. Mssr. DeWitt himself? Why not? Olivier Audemars? He’s here too. The worldwide head of Marketing for Jaeger-LeCoultre? For Vacheron Constantin? For MB&F? Yes, yes, and yes…all were in attendance. And all primed for a conversation.

And with the extraordinary history and culture of Mexico City surrounding you, a full week’s visit is a must!

The press came from all over Latin America, and were nothing short of voracious in their approach to the many interviews conducted throughout the week. Numerous interviews a day with the various brands, and you couldn’t tell the writer from the WIS, because whether from Vogue, Esquire or a watch-specific magazine, they were first and foremost passionate about watches.

I had the wonderful opportunity to dine with quite a few of the press, and none appeared to be there for a job. Sure, they were working. All day, every day. But what came through most is that they were simply head over heels for watches.

In fact, after dinner I watched as six journalists had their 40th Anniversary Royal Oak books autographed by AP’s lead designer Octavio Garcia, who sketched a Royal Oak in each of their books. Octavio’s parents hailed from Mexico, so he was welcomed at the fair as a star returning home.

Throughout the week, the SIAR Watch Fair showed why it is such a powerful fair, and why Latin America has become so important to the many brands in attendance. First and foremost, watches sell BIG in Latin America. And big watches–and we’re talking perpetuals and Grande Complications–sell BIG in Latin America. From Mexico to Argentina, and all countries in between, watches are extremely popular.

Second–and this is why you ought to think about attending next year–the SIAR shined specifically because of what was missing from the week. It took me a couple of days to figure out what it was.

There was absolutely no sign of “been there, done that” jadedness that is an almost guaranteed foe if you’re in this hobby long enough. At some point, something is bound to trip you up. A brand is too fashion-y, you hit a blip in service, fancy events and ambassadors leave you wary of the value of the watches, too few independent brands, they’re only in it for the money, watches are too big and gaudy, and so on.

These truths aren’t universal. Hell, they aren’t even truths. But they live like truths for us. Potentially insurmountable walls, when suddenly the purity of our endeavor is gone, watches are no longer the person we married, and we fight cynicism with everything we’ve got. We change brands, we buy a new watch, we take a break…whatever we can muster to try and regain the love for the tic-toc we so deeply fell in love with years earlier. Just what can we do when we become resigned with all of this?

2013, you go to Mexico. That’s what you do. Because if you want to be fully immersed in everything you fell in love with over watches, the SIAR Salon is for you.


The Courtyard (image by Four Seasons, Mexico D.F.)

Collectors and watch enthusiasts came from all over Latin America to enjoy this intimate experience. They were curious, almost anxiously so. They couldn’t get enough of the watches and the conversation about them.

More good news for the future: if you’re one who fears the cell phone will kill any chance of the next generation wearing watches, the SIAR is for you. Many children came to the Fair, sporting a vintage Tag or Omega, or standing eye-level with the watchmaker’s bench as they were shown the inner workings of a Minute Repeater

…or a loupe view of a skeleton.

There were young company execs looking for the next tourbillon, others attending a Master watchmaking class from Jaeger-LeCoultre, and many of them women.

If anything was clear this past week, it was that service and family come first in Mexico. And that was the prevailing feeling at the SIAR. You weren’t coming to a watch fair. You were attending a family reunion, and the theme was watches.

So, let’s get to them.

Despite having taken well over 1000 watch images of every brand present, some of the suites were just too problematic for pictures. So I’ve spared the glare, and dumped those too harsh to post.

That said, here you are…

AP’s suite re-created the theme of its 40th Anniversary Royal Oak Exhibition, which makes the final stop of its world tour this week in Singapore.

And an original Royal Oak from the AP Museum

Cartier

Vacheron Constantin

Montblanc

MB&F

De Bethune

A. Lange & Sohne

Urwerk

Richard Mille

Franc Vila

Jaeger-LeCoultre

LUNCH TIME!

Hop in the sponsor’s car…

Or maybe just take the elevator downstairs for some fresh tacos…

Will you look what time it is?!

Back to it…

Concord

Dewitt

Piaget

Zenith

One of my favorites from the show. A new ladies, cushion watch from Zenith. Diamonds so elegantly tucked into the corners of the case only.

Hublot

Girard-Perregaux

I visited with Mike Margolis for quite a while. Thanks for opening the cases, Mike. It’s trouble trying to shoot all of these pieces from outside the glass.

Beautifully adorning Mr. Margolis’s wrist…

And so it is written…

Mexico and the 2013 Salon Internacional Alta Relojeria…VAMOS!!!

Congratulations to AP on their award for the 40th Anniversary Royal Oak.

And thank you for including me this week at the amazing SIAR Watch Fair.

Hope you all enjoyed the Fair!

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At this year’s SIHH watch fair in January, we were introduced to the Deep Sea Vintage Chronograph, a 2-register chrono with the heirloom details we’ve come to see on the Deep Sea Alarm models, as well as the Grande Reverso Tribute to 1931 US Edition.

40.5mm case–like the Deep Sea Alarm–plexi crystal, a patina’d tone…a yesteryear look in a watch of today.

The watch was announced to a bevy of rave comments, along with a smattering of suggestions for those “nearly there”: a rotating bezel, a sapphire crystal, and the trappings of a true diver. Little did they know, it was just around the corner.

Just last month, Jaeger-LeCoultre announced the Deep Sea Auto Chronograph, and this week I had the chance to spend some time with one.

The Deep Sea Auto is a 3-register chrono, complies with all ISO 6425 standards for Dive watches, is at 42mm slightly larger than the Vintage Chrono, has a sapphire crystal, and a bezel that turns with the eminent sensation of hand winding a buttery smooth movement.

Beautifully curved lugs that wrap the wrist for an all-day comfort

The clarity of the diver is accentuated by the lumed hands and markers. It shares some of the vintage aesthetic of its counterpart, but stands firmly as a forward launch in design.

The hands, the case, they’re as classic as the brand comes.

And the 758 movement with its 65-hour power reserve as contemporary as you would expect. The bonus feature? A chrono indicator window which at half red/half white indicates the chronograph is activated.

When the chronograph is inactive, the window will read all white. When the chrono is stopped, the window is fully red, as a visual trigger to read the time elapsed. Stop the chrono and start it again, and the indicator jumps once more to half red/half white. Pretty trick when you see it in action.

The watch is frankly as versatile as any, and will certainly become the daily wearer for many.

With a suit? Why not?

42mm is a reserved confidence for today’s sport watch.

Simple from the back, the engraved diver signaling the limits of use.

Vintage?

Modern?

Why not a dash of both?

The Deep Sea Auto Chronograph will be available this fall, and at $10,800 Jaeger-LeCoultre has done it again. Exquisite movement manufacturing powering a veritable tool watch that can be worn proudly at the office.

It’s a staple timepiece that will gratify many a watch lover at the next step in their collector path.

A special thank you to JLC for making the watch available so I could bring it to you.

Hope you enjoyed that!

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